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Routes in Upper Dodge City

African Queen T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Mary T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hoosegow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lynch Mob S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaghetti Western S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
String 'em Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Description

Upper Dodge City sits high on the ridge above The Corral Wall. The main cliff is NNW facing and for the most part in the shade all day. The right side of the wall gets oblique sun in the late afternoon. The established routes are on the left side and include "String 'em Up" 5.11 b/c** (5 bolts right of an arete), "Lynch Mob" 5.11a* (4 bolts up a smooth face) and "Spaghetti Western" 5.11d*** (8 bolts up red wall). SEU and LM are on good gray varnish and SW is on dazzeling orange/red varnish. The middle to right side of the wall have many good looking crack systems.The middle of the wall has an unreported route which is a shallow flared crack up to a blank dihedral with bolts. The right side has "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance" 5.9 **, a two pitch route finishing in a nice left arching crack on brown varnish. Across the corridor is an awesome steep brown and black varnished wall with a couple unfinished (?) bolted routes.

Getting There

Follow Rattlesnake Cyn. to the Corral Wall turnoff and head right to Corral Wall. Upper Dodge City can be seen high in the notch to the WSW. It is the best thing visible up there. Head up slabs and ramps. There is no best way and it is boulder hopping the whole way.

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The reference to the steep, dark wall across the corridor may be related to several routes I established with Bob Tarver in January 1991. The following description is taken directly from my "Rock Notes" that contains all my handwritten FA information. "This route is located on the long, low-angle slab 200 yards north of Spaghetti Western" There are a total of 5 routes on this crag, with the highest route being a bolted face route on steep, dark rock (5.10b, 4 bolts, TCU's). This route is visible from Spaghetti Western. None of these routes were ever named. I have also added a scan of a hand-drawn topo and photos of the first (lowest) route on the crag. ANybody ever get on these things? Dec 16, 2007
Alan Bartlett's Y2K reprint edition of Rock Climbs Of Indian Cove lists three additional routes for Upper Dodge City. One of the routes, "The Hoosegow" (10c), to the right of Spaghetti Western was established by Kris Solem. It is a crack climb with a bolt(s). Feb 13, 2004

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