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Upper Dodge City Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Upper Dodge City

L › R R › L A › Z

	African Queen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Feeling Mary T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hoosegow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	3,541 ft	1,079 m
GPS:	34.08063, -116.14308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,488 total · 32/month
Shared By:	David Evans on Feb 13, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024 Details

Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Upper Dodge City sits high on the ridge above The Corral Wall. The main cliff is NNW facing and for the most part in the shade all day. The right side of the wall gets oblique sun in the late afternoon. The established routes are on the left side and include "String 'em Up" 5.11 b/c** (5 bolts right of an arete), "Lynch Mob" 5.11a* (4 bolts up a smooth face) and "Spaghetti Western" 5.11d*** (8 bolts up red wall). SEU and LM are on good gray varnish and SW is on dazzeling orange/red varnish. The middle to right side of the wall have many good looking crack systems.The middle of the wall has an unreported route which is a shallow flared crack up to a blank dihedral with bolts. The right side has "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance" 5.9 **, a two pitch route finishing in a nice left arching crack on brown varnish. Across the corridor is an awesome steep brown and black varnished wall with a couple unfinished (?) bolted routes.

Getting There

Follow Rattlesnake Cyn. to the Corral Wall turnoff and head right to Corral Wall. Upper Dodge City can be seen high in the notch to the WSW. It is the best thing visible up there. Head up slabs and ramps. There is no best way and it is boulder hopping the whole way.