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Routes in Rollerball Formation

Bamboozler, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keep the Ball Rolling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rollerball T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rollerbrah TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rollercoaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: (TR) Vaino Kodas & Herb Laeger, 1987, FL: Chris Miller, May 1998
Page Views: 1,758 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Well-protected and varied throughout it's length, this route requires a variety of techniques to succeed - a balancy lieback down low leads to a steep, thin slab in the middle with a thuggy finish over a roof.

Great rock and continuous movement throughout combined with excellent protection make this well-worth doing or even attempting. Three stars out of five.

Location

Found just to the left of the classic Rollerball on the northwest corner of the Rollerball Formation.

Protection

9 bolts, anchors (3/8" and 1/2")

Photos

Loved this but I couldn't figure out the move to get over the roof. Mantle? Feb 11, 2016
Phil Esra  
 
Every bit as good as Rollerball. Extremely well protected. Really fun, varied climbing--a bit of everything--with two distinct crux sections, which I found equally hard (bolts 3-4 and the roof). Maybe not the hardest 11c in the park. Feb 9, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11-
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11-
I'd vote 11- as well. I'd advise anybody out rollerball formation way to NOT TR this since you'll seldom find as well-bolted a jtree route. The crux for me is down low on the route in some powerful, yet insecure barndoor type moves. I am no roof master but RC's seems light once you commit. Jan 27, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.11-
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.11-
Considering the number of awkward routes at Jtree I'd say this is relatively straightforward. I could see people doing all kinds of strange on the lower crux, but the beta that finally got me up it was fairly smooth. I found the press at the top to be easy compared to down below; YMMV. .11c seems extremely generous for Jtree, but hell, I'll take the tic. I found the moves on Bamboozler to be far harder.

I'm giving this 4 stars. For no other reason than it's better than Rollerball. There, I said it. Jan 5, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
11 awkward, agreed. top section, once the move is deciphered, goes easy. bottom section (2-4 bolts) is the awkward part, not to mention technical, weird. Oct 23, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Protected well enough to easily lead except for the fact it's not an easy lead. The "show stopper lip" stopped my show. Hard to believe the mantle could be that difficult using all those holds!

I may never reach the chains but its a fun ride when visiting the crag just the same. Easily set up TR in full sun makes for a nice destination in the cooler temps.

11 awkward is the perfect rating Will. Oct 5, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.11
For such an awkward climb, this is a gem. Three very different cruxes including a showstopper mantle over the lip. Hard to rate a climb like this without climbing it several times 11b? 11c? Who cares, just call it .11 awkward and get on it. The route is very well protected and safe, especially by Jtree standards or can be easily top roped by leading rollerball (chain anchor on top). Nov 27, 2006
Randy
  5.11c
Randy  
  5.11c
11b seems a sandbag, particularly for the final moves which seem the crux. Solid 11c. Mar 8, 2006
Josh Beck
  5.11b
Josh Beck  
  5.11b
I found the slabby liebacking to be quite interesting, I was constantly a twisted mess of arms, legs and rope on this one. The finish is spectacular, this is a very nice route. Nov 5, 2004
I was out to climb Rollerball several years ago and noticed that the TR to the left had just been bolted, I thought cool, it looks like a fun 5.11, I started to climb and realized that this thing felt a lot harder than 5.11b, maybe I was just way off my game that day, but what do you think? Roof was hard too, lot of variety, but fun even though I was falling. Oct 29, 2004