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Routes in Rollerball Formation

Bamboozler, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keep the Ball Rolling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rollerball T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rollerbrah TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rollercoaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, 1976
Page Views: 4,650 total · 29/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A start past some horizontals gets you to a ledge with a left-leaning thin crack which thins and dies, with the crux being a balancy lieback past a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead to a stance below an impressive roof which despite appearances from afar goes easily with a perfect hand crack splitting it.

Belay from gear (pro to 2.5") and walk off or use the anchors on the neighboring Rollercoaster and don't forget to set a directional piece for your follower.

A great route to do at least once every season, this route has a lot of fun moves packed into it's relatively short length. Four stars out of five.

Location

Located on the northern end of the west face.

Protection

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

Photos

AST
AST  
Tricky height dependent crux down low. A 6 foot person can pretty easily clip the bolt from a stemming stance. Anyone 5'9" and under may as well just do the crux and clip it after grabbing the exit jug, IMO.

The roof is great fun. Nov 28, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Technical face-like climbing past the crux (and bolt) that is height dependent. The roof up top is a total blast and is probably 5.9- on great jams and the chicken heads to the right.
I'd have given it 4 stars, but the stretches of really good climbing are too short to be a real classic. Nov 29, 2010
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
We thought it to be a pretty fun route, with clean rock. 3 stars out of 5 Jan 27, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
Kind of an overrated climb both grade and quality wise, and a bit of a letdown considering the hype it gets here. Jan 26, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
One of my favorite Josh 10s. Thanks for the bolt explanation- the location has left me scratching my head several times. A BD #7 stopper fits in the flare in the crack OK and makes the moves to clipping the bolt psychologically more acceptable. Fly up the roof and feel like superman! Oct 14, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Bolt placement is high but explaination accepted. I did have to make a few moves to touch it but not too difficult. Crack below can be protected with small TCU's or brassies.

Man, that's a lot of beta for a girl who just cleaned it. Next time...she's mine! Oct 5, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
you can totally clip the bolt before committing to the crux- just work it out.

that said, thanks for the bolt- it made committing to that crux alot easier.

finally- that roof is the most fun you'll ever have on a 5.10 roof! Oct 28, 2007
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
I'm the one who replaced the pin with a bolt. Like Tom says - "It is as close to the original placement as possible" - otherwise the character of the climb would be altered. Glad you enjoyed the route.

The anchor on Rollercoaster was never intended for Rollerball but works fine for that purpose provided a directional is used (see route description). Nov 27, 2006
Murf  
The bolt replaced a pin in the seam. It is as close to the original placement as possible. The chain anchor is actually poorly placed for Rollerball. Nov 27, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10
Whoever placed the bolt on this is either way tall, or a moron (or both..or placed it on rappel without checking the clip stance). You have to commit to the technical liebacking crux before reaching the bolt, which you could have clipped from a secure stem rest stance if it were placed 12" down and to the right. There's a chain anchor on top well positioned for this and Rollercoaster. The climbing is great, roof is fun hands/thin hands, go do it. Nov 27, 2006
The route was perfect in all ways. I used two large cams under the roof to portect it. Did a sling v thing directional with a magic x. There is a definite sequence of hands. Oh! the little flake that protrude out from the line will catch the rope, watch it! I found this route much easier than Clean and Jerk. The quiet at Roller Ball is quite good place to concentrate, unlike Clean and Jerk. Mar 6, 2005
Mike Hack
  5.10b
Mike Hack  
  5.10b
Great climb, although short, with two fun cruxes. For me the technical crux (layback/weight shift near the bolt) was not as hard as the roof crux. This to me felt harder than the roof on Illusion Dweller. Just not very secure for my fat hands. I didn't think this route was as hard or as pumpy as C&J, though. Nov 8, 2004
Josh Beck
  5.10c
Josh Beck  
  5.10c
Indeed a great route. Maybe I was having a bad day but for me this route was harder than Clean and Jerk - perhaps comparable to Bearded Cabbage in overall difficulty? Nov 5, 2004

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