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Routes in Olympic Dome

Black Diamond T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodline, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Bosch Me Around T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Icon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jamaican Bobsled T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Cross S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Todd Battey, Tom Burke, Jim Angione & Craig Fry, September 1988
Page Views: 2,087 total · 11/month
Shared By: Randy on Feb 28, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This clean, steep, somewhat right leaning crack would be crowded every day of the season if it were located closer to the masses. It is located on the steep southeast face of Olympic Dome just right of Black Diamond (5.12a); to get to the base of the route, some "Class 3" climbing is necessary.

Though the crack appears fairly wide in spots, it has no dreaded offwidth sections and is an excellent route.

Protection

Bring a good selection of medium to large pro (to 4"). 2 bolt anchor/rap.

Photos

Murf
  5.10c
Murf  
  5.10c
Thought there was a wide move or two up high. Vaguely disappointed although the route was very good, I suspect I was expecting a splitter, still 4 of 5 *'s. Bolts at the top, w/o chains/slings seemed an oddity. Jan 17, 2005
RTM
  5.10c
RTM  
  5.10c
Amazing rock! Feb 16, 2009
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
I was thrilled with this one. Fabulous rock with secure, just-past-vertical jamming and straightforward gear in the most beautiful locale in the park.

As Murf said, a pair of screw-links would allow a convenient ~90' rappel from the two bolt anchor, but the downclimb (over the top, then climbers right) is doable if you don't want to leave gear. Mar 30, 2012
Well worth the 1.5-2 hour approach. The rock is patina'ed to the point of being slippery smooth. New webbing and leaver 'biner at the anchor to facilitate rappel as of 12/2012. Nothing smaller than 0.5/0.75 Camelot needed for the lead. Pretty steep - the rappel is free hanging. Dec 10, 2012
Tradiban
  5.10c
Tradiban  
  5.10c
Not sure why this is "classic". Rock is suspect and greasy and the jams aren't fun.

Webbing on the anchor is bad, have your partner follow then traverse over to rap anchors on Black Diamond (two bolts up higher w/o rap rings, two bolts lower with rap rings). Dec 18, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Mr. Gordon, you can take the hits like no other. You're like teflon, letting stuff just roll off your back, not just when it's from me :)

Recent comments are funny, you've got 10 people (some of whom can be stingy with the ratings) to rate this route with 4 stars. Yet Tradaholic drags (used loosely) it down to 3 stars... Gee wiz, how would a route without "suspect rock and greasy and the jams aren't fun" rate?

Silliness all around, I'm mostly amused by Tradaholic, he's a MP regular and active climber, kinda crumbs on it but still rates it 3 stars... I'm thinking the route is still quite good and adding this to my to-do list and judge for myself! Dec 19, 2013
Tradiban
  5.10c
Tradiban  
  5.10c
Before reading your comments I decided to down-grade to two stars, it's just not that good! Dec 20, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
^^ that's more like it... drag that sucker down! You're getting your fill in this trip... QM, Comicbook, etc. keep hiking like that and those holds won't feel so greasy! Keep posting your findings.... you're on a roll Tradaholic! Dec 20, 2013
RTM
  5.10c
RTM  
  5.10c
This is one of the best 5.10 trad lines I have done in Josh. May not be a pure crack, but what a great climb! Polished smooth patina. I am stunned that its a Todd Gordon route - no 20ft tall congealed oatmeal slabs here!! Dec 22, 2013
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
It was kinda' funny on the day of the FA. We all got to the base and no one jumped up to claim the lead. Maybe the approach had taken something out of us or the look of the route intimidated us. Finally I claimed it and boy was I glad! It was only 10c (well within my leading ability) and mega classic. I'm not sure why what's his name gave less stars, maybe tight undies? Apr 19, 2015

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