Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Olympic Dome

Black Diamond T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodline, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Bosch Me Around T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Icon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jamaican Bobsled T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Cross S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Todd Battey, Dave Evans, Craig Fry & Rob Stahl 3/89, FFA: Eric Erickson, Craig Fry & Todd Battey
Page Views: 2,201 total, 15/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 17, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin at the same spot as for Red Cross (5.12a) and clip the first bolt for that route. Traverse left past two more bolts until reaching the base of the left-slanting seam. One more bolt and a piton are at the base of the seam (11c to this point). Brilliant climbing on exquisite rock exists to the top. You will encounter a distinct crux (12) half way up the seam where a fixed #1 camalot is located. An ancient cactus is located on the ledge where the route ends. Maneuvering around the plant to avoid being pricked requires extra care; especially for the second!

Descend to the top of the rap anchor for Jamaican Bobsled.

Easily 5 out of 5 stars!!!

Protection

Camming units to 1", small to medium stoppers, and QD's for four bolts. Medium cams are needed for an anchor.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Hey Battman....nice summary of the events surrounding the FA of Bloodline. Great route name as well. Jan 6, 2013
Battman
 
Battman  
 
Here's what I remember. The Bloodline is one of the cleanest cracks at JT with some tricky thin face moves to get to the start of the splitter. I remember trading leads, yo-yo style, to get to the crack. Gordo and others had their moments of glory pushing the high point. We pushed it from the gound up. My best ground-up effort involved a couple hangs, and by the time I had done that A1 ascent I think some of us had top-roped this beautiful line. I remember Craig took another strong climber out there to bag the first lead, and he was shut down. When we took E out there, and it's OUT THERE, he fired the lead. He deserves the credit for the first clean lead. Aug 26, 2012
Rob Stahl
San Diego, CA
  5.11d
Rob Stahl   San Diego, CA
  5.11d
Amen Feb 15, 2011
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
Todd (G), thanks for reminding us! Feb 13, 2011
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I drilled one of the bolts and pushed the high point at the time;....It's MY route......me, mine, my........(Don't be stealing my route;....dont' even look at it.....look the other way....)... Feb 13, 2011
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
It was our route, there was no "my route" about it. Feb 12, 2011
Rob Stahl
San Diego, CA
  5.11d
Rob Stahl   San Diego, CA
  5.11d
I am pretty sure that Todd Battey and Dave Evans climbed the route free. I climbed it with 1 fall at the crux. I also placed the bolt below the 1 finger hole from a hook. The hold I was hooking on subsequently broke off, making the move to the "hole" a little or difficult.

The first lead I heard about without a fall (redpoint) was by Eric, but I wasn't there. Don't remember who told me about that, but seemed credible at the time. Feb 10, 2011
Craig Fry
  5.12b
Craig Fry  
  5.12b
This was my route, I worked it about 3 days and couldn't get past the crux 5.12 section mid way up the crack, Todd did a lot of work too. Todd came up with the name.

Meanwhile, they may have aided it, I don't remember that, and is disturbing to report it as an aid route (I'm not sure why it was?)

But I got Eric Ericsson to come out as my rope gun, and he fired it, he said it was 5.12 a/b. I followed next, along with everybody else.

Why would DE say I didn't do it with EE, has his memory completely failed him!! Jan 30, 2011
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
The FA party did the route free and rated it 11d. EE repeated it later and rated it 12a. I don't think Fry and Battey were with him on that occasion. Not sure where this FFA nonsense came from. Nov 3, 2009
Vernon Stiefel
  5.12a
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.12a
Following during the initial traverse is spicy for the second. Exercise caution on some of the loose flakes.

Bobby P. (pictured on "Eureka" in photo submitted by DEE) onsighted this route!! Dec 20, 2005