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Routes in Tumbling Rainbow Formation

Army Armstrong T A2+
Days of Thunder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Look A Gift Frog In The Mouth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fisticuffs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Handcuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainy Day, Dream Away T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Run For Your Life T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Runaway S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
SDR TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tales of Brave Ulysses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tic Tic Boom S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tonic Boom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tumbling Rainbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Room T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: John Long & Rick Accomazzo, March 1973
Page Views: 9,111 total · 52/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Apr 15, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Nice fist jamming in a clean splitter. Would rate more stars if longer. Sunny.

Located about 50' below and 100' to the right of the start of Run For Your Life.

Starts as hands the quickly moves to cups, fists and even OW for the last few feet. The difficulties last for about 30', then hang a left and scramble up about 20' to the top of the pillar and find an anchor. Make sure the rope runs through the crack to provide directional protection for the 2nd.

Descent: scramble off to the north.

Protection

We did it with one blue Camalot and one #4 Friend but it would be preferable to have a 2nd #4 or a 3.5 Camalot.
namascar
  5.10b
namascar  
  5.10b
Great route, one of the purest cracks in Josh. One has to pay attention with the #4 Camalots. It is easy to place them, walk them and it may lead to multi hour recovery operations. I saw a #4 jammed once and tried to remove it, without luck. Then this weekend, it happened to us. This time, we put more time and effort till we got the dawn piece out. Don't let this embarrassing situation happened to you. Nov 8, 2004
Murf
  5.10b
Murf  
  5.10b
This is a fun line, and it is pretty "pure", but its so short that to call it the "anything"-est route at Josh is giving it a bit too much credit. Nov 8, 2004
No, I agree. This is one of the most "splitter" cracks the park has to offer; you can talk to someone on the other side of the formation through the crack. It may be short but that doesn't change the fact that this crack is different from most of the cracks in Josh. I invite anyone who disagrees to just slot a jam at the the base of the route and feel the difference. Mar 22, 2005
bw1
  5.10b
bw1  
  5.10b
this is worth the hike if you are in the area. though short, a nice clean crack that required all kinds of crack techniques. Apr 5, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Great hands and fists. Nice route on nice rock. Short, but worth putting on the 'to do' list. Jan 9, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Don't know about the "hang a left and scramble to top of pillar to find a belay" bit. I belayed where the crack goes horizontal..the walk off is just a few feet right of this and the climbing above (to the top of the pillar) is trivial and short 5-easy slab. Belay where the crack goes horiz takes from 3.5 to 4 camalot. Did this with one 3 camalot, ended up pushing it a ways, ideally take two of 'em. Good rack would be doubles in 3, 3.5, 4 camalot (this would include the belay pieces). Feb 16, 2007
It might be short, but it's stout! And beautiful. Jun 29, 2007
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Everyone says its short and it is... but worth going back to climb and working it. It would be 4 stars if it were twice as long. May 28, 2008
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10b
Did it with a #2 off the ground, 1 #3 and 2 #4's. Short but sweet, crux is at the top where crack is widest and steepest. Nov 30, 2009
A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
  5.9
A. Wolaver   Golden, CO
  5.9
Really a great splitter. I wouldn't really consider it an offwidth. Also, come on folks, lets not get to comfortable on the cush J-Tree approaches. The approach is probably less than a half mile with about 30 feet of elevation gain. Nov 26, 2010
a fun and physical 40 feet. Even with my big paws I wasn't getting the tightest fist jams at the top, more like elbow-locks. 2 #4 camalots highly recommended. Easy belay anchor can be made by slinging a huge chickenhead on the low angle slab Dec 6, 2010
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
I'm gonna rock "fisticuffs" in April, YAYA! Feb 23, 2011
MikeP ROWCC
  5.10a
MikeP ROWCC  
  5.10a
Nice crack. My hands are large enough where this didn't feel like an offwidth. An unusual perfect crack for J tree. Feb 19, 2013
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a/b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a/b
Video

youtube.com/watch?v=FdJJso9… Feb 25, 2013

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