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Routes in Tumbling Rainbow Formation

Army Armstrong T A2+
Days of Thunder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Look A Gift Frog In The Mouth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fisticuffs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Handcuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainy Day, Dream Away T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Run For Your Life T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Runaway S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
SDR TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tales of Brave Ulysses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tic Tic Boom S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tonic Boom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tumbling Rainbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Room T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA (Aid): Dave Evans and Jim Angione 1/78 FFA (TR) John Bachar, Kevin Powell & Mari Gingery 1979 FL: Russ Raffa 1979
Page Views: 1,766 total, 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Nov 30, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fantastic line up the obvious right-facing corner system right of Tumbling Rainbow (5.9). A short section of thin crack leads past a bolt (crux) and then into the shallow corner system above.

The protection is adequate, provided one has a good selection of thin gear, as well as the endurance to hang out and place it on this continuously challenging route. Not done too often, but that actually works to your advantage, as there's probably no waiting to be done on this route. Three out of five stars.

Protection

bolt (3/8"), gear to 1.5" including small wires

Photos

Randy  
Here is the scoop. The bottom has good thin gear which leads to the bolt. The crux is protected by the bolt. Above, you can follow the original line up and angling slightly right along a shallow crack system. A better finish is to head back left from the shallow crack onto the arete which is 5.10a/b (Called Days of Thunder) and protected by 3 bolts. Two bolt anchor/rap. Jan 25, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Scotty, I followed this last winter and here's what I remember: The crux is very low, at about the 12' level, but you're starting off the top of a mini pillar (i.e. don't fall before the first piece or it would be ugly). It protects ok with multiple small wires (brass and/or offset helpful) entering he crux, not ideal, but good enough. Leader fell on that gear IIRC. Above the slightly awkward/tricky but short crux the climbing and gear is easier and much more straightforward, although somewhat steep after it turns the corner onto the right side face. Protection is good above the crux with wires and cams, you just have to hang out a bit to place it and it's a little spaced. Jan 24, 2008
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
With the bolt, is this a well protected route? Jan 24, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11b
Indeed, rarely done. Dec 19, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Originally led without the bolt, which was added later when Tic Tic Boom was climbed. See the comments for Tic Tic Boom for the lowdown. Dec 14, 2002