Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tim Bluhm & Donald Wise, October 1987
Page Views: 599 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This rotue climbs the right-most arete of the upper Rainbow formation's right summit when viewed from the valley trail.

To access this rotue climb Gift Frog (preferably) or maybe Fisticuffs and scramble up to a belay below this arete.

Make some balancy steep moves with poor pro (crux, height dependant) to gain nice finger cracks splitting the arete and then cruise to the top on good nut placements and easier climbing (5.6?). As the rock gets poor up top, stay left and head for the summit belay (gear).

To escape, scramble over to the left summit and rap the anchors above Runaway

Protection

A standard light rack to 2"

Photos

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C Miller   CA  
The name is that of another great song from Cream's second album - Disraeli Gears (1967).

Tim Bluhm, one of the first ascentionists, is a member of the Mother Hips - a California-based band. Jan 13, 2006