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Routes in Micro Crag
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Confessional T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Easy Day Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Hem, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Skinny Legs And All T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Snicker Biscuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Todd Couple, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unmitigated Damages T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wardrobist Slammed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wired T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03815, -116.18563 |
| FA: | (TR): Robert Hynes, February 1989 (first lead): Todd Swain April 1991 |
| Page Views: | 934 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
In the middle of the steepest section of the Micro Crag are two steep cracks. Begin on a ramp right of the direct line and cross into the initial crack. Move to and finish on the left crack as it opens up. A direct start looks like it can be done (as marked in Vogel's guide), but would be unprotected.
This climb is steep and powerful throughout. The rock is still "developing". High up a large foothold disintegrated beneath me, nearly braining my belayer. A key handhold seems slightly suspect. Nonetheless, a worthwhile climb in an area spotted with worthy ticks.
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