Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: AJ, Tom Murphy, Dave Evans
Page Views: 865 total · 5/month
Shared By: AJ on Jan 16, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is the prominent right-leaning crack in the center of the wall. The crux is a flaring handcrack in a red bulge 100' up. Above the crux, move right 10' to an easy crack leading to the summit.


standard rack


Long, steep, and harder than it looks. Crux moves are low percentage, better get it right the first time or end up dangling. Jan 19, 2004
An unclimbed 3 star 11a crack in Jtree? Wow! This thing must be a hike and a half to get to. You guys were stoked to find this thing. Sep 7, 2004
tony grice
tony grice  
This route was cool!!! Some loose stuff as can be expected ,but overall this route was super fun.Long route short crux. Go to the bulkhead and walk to the right around it. You cannot miss this gem. Hope your sport climbing legs are in shape for the hike. Dec 20, 2005
tony grice
tony grice  
11a Dec 20, 2005
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
This thing is a sad joke. You guys got us good on this one. A giant hike followed by super loose rock to an unispiring and contrived crux. At least I saw a rat and some nice cactus or the whole day would have been waste. To give this 4 stars means that things like Wanger Banger, Illusion Dweller and Coarse and Buggy should be 50 stars. Avoid this travesty at all costs. Dec 6, 2006
Driggs, ID
CTrudeau   Driggs, ID
120ft. of 5.8 followed by 10ft. of 5.10 is hardly worthy of " classic status". If it wasn't for the horrendous approach, I'd have bagged it upon first sight! This route will indeed clean up after about twenty more ascents, but I'd never recommend anyone ever slogging out there to bother! Dec 6, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
This thing is not anywhere near being a classic. Loose, not sustained, way the hell out there, and overrated. Mostly 5.7 with a short 8ft section of "the business". Save your time and energy, this and the other routes in the immediate area are total piles and wouldn't be worth climbing if they were next to the road, much less a 40min uphill march.Nice bee hive in the crack for you nature lovers. Dec 6, 2006
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
Wow, what a bunch of whiners! Nov 4, 2009
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I agree with Dee Eee......does everything have to be diamonds and teflon?....alittle Josh loose rock is good for you;...keep you on your toes, off the plastic, and give you a taste of real climbing....sac up, hike for more than 15 min., and give Big Moe, The Mel Cracks, and The Beaver a break.....and when you hike up to these unpolished "classics"...maybe you might find your OWN pile to spray about.... Nov 4, 2009