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Routes in Vernal Walls

After Becky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dora The Explorer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Venous Vernish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waltzing Wern T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Murphy, AJ Burch
Page Views: 45 total · 0/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the left side of Upper Wernal Walls are two cracks which lean left to right. The left one is wider and on the edge of the formation. The right one is in solid black varnish and ends in a section of white rock. At this point the route traverses into the left crack, passing through some fractured rock (probably PG at this point).

Technical thin face and lie backing skills are required. Rarely do you find a jam, although solid gear is available for the whole crack. Small but solid fractures throughout the vernish allow for edging.

Moderate climbing leads to a large feature for a rest. Harder moves lead to edges at the top of the crack. At this point, technical crimping leads left to the other crack. No gear is available for the traverse, so make sure your last piece is solid. Some loose rock detracts (or perhaps adds) to the experience. Continue up easier terrain to the top.

Descend to the left back to the packs.

Protection

Thin cams and medium nuts to start, single hand size to finish. Slung tree and #3 Camalot for anchor.

Photos

DE was on this route only as photographer. Jan 20, 2004

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