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Routes in The Helmet

Blues for the Red Sun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomahawk, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines & Steve Sutton, 1992
Page Views: 1,158 total, 7/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 3, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This incredible 2-pitch route begins in a left arching crack about 50' left of a large pine tree at the base of The Helmet's north face. Climb up a ramp underneath the crack to the first piton. A bolt past the piton leads to sporty face climbing to a second piton (TCU's may be placed here). A difficult move past the second piton leads to a sustained and technical traverse past 7 more bolts to a hanging 2 bolt belay. The second pitch passes 9 bolts up a steep chute over "mini moguls" to another two bolt belay.

Protection

The first pitch is protected by 8 bolts, 2 pitons, a few small TCU's and one large stopper near the beginning. The second pitch has 9 bolts. Two bolt anchors with rap rings are at the top of each pitch. Make one double rope rappel or two single rope rappels to the ground.

Photos

The route to the right is a project that hasn't been red pointed yet. According to Bob Gaines and Steve Sutton it is in the 5.13 range. Oct 20, 2003
Stood under the first piton and looked at the route for a long time not knowing what it was, but I am glad I did not try it, now that I know the rating.

What is the route to the right of this one that joins up with the same anchors? It looks to be in the same 11-12 ballpark.

Mikerreddig@yahoo.nospam.comI will post the GPS for the top of the helmet as soon as I go home and grab my gps. Oct 20, 2003
The Tomahawk sports about 150' of 11+ / 12- near vertical slab / face climbing on very good to excellent rock; easily the most sustained route of its type and grade at J-Tree. Thanks to Bob Gaines and Steve Sutton for this masterpiece! May 19, 2003