Devil's Advocate
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 34.07453, -116.13872 |
| FA: | Vernon Stiefel & Holden Harris, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,558 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on May 3, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route begins just left of Witch Hunt in an obvious vertical offwidth (10-). At the top of the offwidth the low angle crack veers slightly left and narrows to tips (9). Higher up the tips crack becomes steeper and angles right towards a ledge underneath a small overhang (10+). An intermittent 2" wide rail is 2' above the crack. The crux (11-) is a difficult stem / reach move, from where the tips crack and rail end, to the ledge (Slightly runout but bomber TCU's are 5' behind you).
I removed A LOT of "potato chip" flakes from the faces on either side of the tips crack (solid) enroute to the top. The route quality would improve with more
Protection
Many small pieces including brass, small stoppers,and #00 - #2 TCU's plus a couple of 3.5 - 4" cams. The climb ends 90' from the ground on a ledge with a small oak tree which can be slung. Small - medium cams work well to supplement the anchor. From the ledge climb 15' to the top of Witch Hunt and rappel off of a one bolt (5/8") anchor (two ropes to the ground OR rappel to the two bolt anchor at the top of South of Heaven and then to the ground.



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