Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Gilje, Mike Lechlinski, & Mari Gingery, 1990
Page Views: 2,038 total · 11/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 3, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This classic route ascends the left arete past 4 bolts for over 100' to the top of the formation. Large holds and small ledges on exquisite rock are experienced for the duration of the climb.


Medium cams or medium stoppers for the initial crack section and quickdraws for four bolts. The anchor is one 5/8" bolt with a quick shut and rappel ring.


After two false Slatanic sightings, finally, we know where it is!!! May 8, 2003
Graham Roff  
While the climbing is great, it is a very short route with basically 10 or 15 feet of real climbing. I would not really say worthy of the four stars the guide gives it. Definitely fun and well protected though.

Note that if you rap off the single bolt up top you will not make it to the ground with a 60m - you end up having to rap off the end and dropping a couple feet. It works, but be prepared. Oct 24, 2006
Bryan G
Bryan G   Yosemite
This climb is featured in a video that I created for one of my film classes. For the video we approached via the North Wonderland trail - much longer but more scenic than the Rattlesnake Canyon approach. The video can be seen here

The Slatanic Area has superb positioning up on a ridge, making for a very photogenic climb. Great rock and cool moves on the arete and face, but as Graham said it's got a short crux with a lot of easier climbing. If you're in the area you might also consider scrambling on over to the opposite side of Valley of the Kings and climbing the Firewater Chimney, another 5.10b, and one of the best in the park. Jun 17, 2009
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Nice video, thanks for posting Bryan. Now you're ready for South of Heaven. Jun 17, 2009
I thought the fall potential was bad on the arete/face section before the crack at the top. I wouldn't recommend this to the budding 5.10 leader but then again, that could be said about a lot of routes in the park. Dec 30, 2012
Rock quality, position, movement, variety = 4 stars in my book. After leaving the crack at the start, there is a committing mantle move out onto the exposed arĂȘte to clip the first bolt. It's not too hard, but you will not want to mess it up. Jan 5, 2013
Josh Janes    
The first pro bolt and the bolted anchor atop the formation were replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.

The second pro bolt appears to be in good condition and while the final two pro bolts are showing signs of age, both can be backed up with decent cams (0.5 Camalot).

If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA atsafeclimbing.org. Apr 7, 2013
Huh? I wouldn't say this is close to classic. A few crimpy slab moves for about 10ft is about it. A whipping swinger from the crux didn't look fun either. Last two bolts are just about junk and unnecessary as well. (Shrugs).

BTW, pic in the the latest Mirmontes guide has this starting the same as the 12 and the positions of the bolts is off too. Start left on the crack under the arete. Mar 10, 2016
Trado, why did you buy the miramontes guide anyway? Mar 10, 2016
So I don't need to carry multiple books to cover the whole park. That book has the best overview of everything despite a few errors. Mar 11, 2016
cool! Mar 11, 2016
Thanks for the heads up on that Tradoholic. That edition is nearly sold out, so I can incorporate those corrections into the 3rd soon! I climbed all of the routes here, but that was 15 years ago, I don't recall all of the details. Mar 16, 2016