Mountain Project Logo

Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Right Side

Chicken Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dover Sole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Karoosh's Wedding Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Snapper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Tide S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rubber Soul TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shibumi T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Soviet Union T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Powell, Paul Schweizer, Alan Roberts & Randy Vogel, 1985
Page Views: 894 total, 5/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Mar 6, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A couple of steep, burly moves off the ground lead to much more relaxed thin liebacking and jamming. Not terribly sustained for the grade but you have to be able to pull the first couple of moves. A really nice route on nice rock and a good lead for people trying to break into 5.11 as the crux is low and very well protected and the rest of the climbing is much easier.

Protection

Several very thin cams (00, 0, and 1 TCUs or black, blue and green aliens) and thin nuts, selection of finger - hand sized gear as well. 1-3" for anchor. 3rd class off left to descend.

Photos

Murf
  5.11c
Murf  
  5.11c
Perhaps finger specific, painful for sure, a stout boulder problem with a short,moderate layback on top. May 9, 2005
Abdullah
  5.11c
Abdullah  
  5.11c
The opening moves to this one are great V2-3 and burl. I used a right handjam thumbs up, crossing to a two finger(pinky and ring finger) thumbs up jam and throw to a right hand jam. I can see this as V1(.11a) in Josh though as Ive been on harder V2's there. Apr 28, 2005
Matelich
  5.11b
Matelich  
  5.11b
The start is V3. It may also be dependent on pain tolerance because the locker, two finger jam feels like it will cut your fingers off if your foot pops. The entry moves are definately harder than anything on Swept Away or Course and Buggy. Apr 20, 2005
Mark J Gain  
 
Felt harder than 5.11a, start moves. But what do I know. Apr 17, 2005
Randy  
I don't remember much, except that Powell "snapped" when he had a hard time with the first moves. Everything else is a blurr. Apr 13, 2004
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
Does anyone have any beta on the start to this climb? I tried it this weekend and got shut down hard. Apr 12, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Short crux to decent climbing above. Nothing smaller than #1 tcu's (or green aliens) should be needed on this route. Nov 11, 2003