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Routes in Split Dome

Big Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bike Across America T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bite Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bumpy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C-Section T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C.C. Takes San Jose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cleared For Takeoff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Felch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gynogroove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
In And Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nipple, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nuptual Sac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porky's Excellent Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Potato Gun, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Too Obvious T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turtle Vein T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jon Lonne, Herb Laeger, and Rich Smith
Page Views: 77 total · 0/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 22, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This prominent overhanging thin hands / fist crack is on the east face of Split Dome. The superb rock quality makes this short but powerful climb well worthwhile.

Jam the crack and use holds on either side for hands and feet. The initial crack ends in a small "cave." At this point a thin seam goes directly over a roof (thin cams and stoppers for protection)to the top or a left-slanting fist crack can be climbed to the top. Placing protection is the crux.


1" - 3.5" Cams and medium stoppers provide excellent protection for this overhanging crack. Medium cams are necessary for an anchor in a horizontal crack behind a ledge at the top.


Given the ability to use holds to the right of the crack, and the shortness of the crux, I'm tempted to say this puppy is more of a .10d/.11a than .11b. Hell, I even sported a heel hook on this puppy. Mar 3, 2003
Seemed a easier than Jumping Jack Crack for instance. I would call it 5.11a. Mar 5, 2003

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