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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Split Rocks
> Split Rocks East
> Split Dome
> Split Dome (S Rock)
Cleared For Takeoff
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Split Dome (South Rock)
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B-Side Metal. S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bike Across America T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cleared For Takeoff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Joshua Tree Brew S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joshua Tree Coffee S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nipple, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Popsicle, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Porky's Big Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Too Obvious T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Turtle Vein T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Worthy of It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.00969, -116.0549 |
| FA: | Jon Lonne, Herb Laeger, and Rich Smith |
| Page Views: | 851 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Feb 22, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This prominent overhanging thin hands / fist crack is on the east face of Split Dome. The superb rock quality makes this short but powerful climb well worthwhile.
Jam the crack and use holds on either side for hands and feet. The initial crack ends in a small "cave." At this point a thin seam goes directly over a roof (thin cams and stoppers for protection)to the top or a left-slanting fist crack can be climbed to the top. Placing protection is the crux.
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