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Routes in Split Dome

Big Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bike Across America T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bite Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bumpy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C-Section T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C.C. Takes San Jose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cleared For Takeoff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Felch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gynogroove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
In And Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nipple, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nuptual Sac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porky's Excellent Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Potato Gun, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Too Obvious T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turtle Vein T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rick Ledesma and Reese Martin, March 1988
Page Views: 55 total · 0/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Nov 12, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seemed like an appropriate route to climb given the current political climate.

This line can easily be seen to the east from the end of the Split Rock parking loop. Huecoed face climbing leads to a right-angling crack and good pro. Instead of following the crack, continue straight up past 3 bolts with old hangers, make a delicate move left along a small dike, and continue up along the arete on easier terrain. Bring a few pieces to build an anchor.

As typical for Josh, the descent may be the crux.

A good choice for a cold day.


3 bolts + a few pieces to 2" for protection before the first bolt and to build an anchor.


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When I was putting together the last book, I didn't know the name of this climb (was during the old George Bush administration). Seemed a good comment on his policies. But, in hindsight (comparision) to young "W", dad was a piker, a real tree hugger. Nov 15, 2004

More About Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President)