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Routes in Willit Pillar

Call of the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fraud Squad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollywood and Vaino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Moving Targets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sand Donkey (aka Will It or Won't It), The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Face Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Highway A1
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Type: Aid, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 736 total · 4/month
Shared By: Eddie Clarke on Feb 4, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the bolt ladder located on the west side of Willit Pillar. The first bolt is actually a rivet, so bring a hanger or a medium nut. For a fun finish, skip the last two bolts and mantel up on the good hold to the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Need 1 rivet hanger. Bolt ladder. If soloing, set bottom anchor using 2 nuts and #4 camalot. There are rappel anchors on top (to rappel off the back of the rock), but if you have to rappel the route to clean gear be aware that it is a huge pain to pull the rope from that angle.

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C Miller
CA
  C0
C Miller   CA  
  C0
The Unknown Highway bolt ladder is in good repair and I doubt needs any attention. A few years back a climber ripped an old bolt and broke his leg. He subsequently went back and replaced most (if not all) of the bolts.

17 bolts total in the bolt ladder. Jan 29, 2004
Matt Marino
Georgetown, MA
Matt Marino   Georgetown, MA
A nice place to learn some aid techniques. If you don't mind some suspect pro I highly recommend it. That being said I did this route today and about 1/3 of the bolts rotate freely and need to be replaced. The first bolt is completely gone and near the top one bolt is about 2/3 out of it's hole. You top out at an old anchor made out of 2 rusty bolts and some 3 year old webbing. Reason enough to start carrying a bolt kit. Nov 14, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  A0
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  A0
The bolts are in "good repair" due to the efforts of Gerry Cox and were upgraded in the fall of 1994 (no pun intended!). Incidentally, the climber (Gerry) DIDN"T break his leg, but did dislocate his right ankle, necessitating an all day wait in the High Desert Hospital Emergency Room, when a 1/4" Rawl buttonhead pulled under body weight, and precipitated a 20ft. fall. Dec 8, 2010
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
No need for a rivet hanger. The bolt is gone.

There are a couple of bolts that could use a little help. But they still work.

Otherwise, fun as always. Nov 25, 2014
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
The "rivet" that fell out has been replace by a new beefy 3/8 inch bolt. Now at least the first bolt to get you started on the bolt ladder is solid and sound. Jul 12, 2015
Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest
Yannick Gingras   On the road, mostly Southwest
The top bolt is sticking out and wiggles in its hole. It is very unlikely that it would hold a fall. Mar 6, 2018

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