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> Joshua Tree NP
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> Indian Cove CG…
> Willit Pillar
Moving Targets
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Willit Pillar
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Call of the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flare, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fraud Squad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hollywood and Vaino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Moving Targets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sand Donkey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Highway A0 |
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Will It Stick? TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Willit Hold? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0933, -116.15514 |
| FA: | Ben Chapman & Don Porter (April 1994) |
| Page Views: | 1,403 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Benjamin Chapman on Dec 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Pull up into the thin crack that diagonals up and right across the face, just right of the start of Unknown Highway. Follow the thin crack onto the sloping shelf. Continue moving right (past the bullet scarred/pockmarked rock) and up the flakey black crack to join Hollywood & Vaino at the dark black alcove. Belay in the alcove, to avoid rope drag. Continue up Hollywood & Vaino to where it meets Call of the West. Climb up a few feet on these routes to a horizontal on the right. Follow the horizontal crack right, above the overhang, for 40ft., passing the South Face Route midway on the traverse, to a wide right leaning crack. Climb the right leaning crack to the right shoulder of Willit Pillar.
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