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Routes in Freak Brothers Dome

Fat Freddie's Escape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Girdle Crossing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
I Can't Believe it's a Sandbag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Safe Muffins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Zap No. 4 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jack Marshall and Don Wilson, November 1988
Page Views: 665 total · 4/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up to the upper right end of a large fallen block below (and once part of) the large roof on the middle formation.

Cruxy face (5.10c/d) past 2 bolts (1st may be doubled) next to an arete lead to the dike of I Can't Believe Its A Girdle. Head left (clip 3 bolts; but maybe unclip the 1st and runner the 2nd). Then head straight up on classic Josh friction (5.10c) past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

Though you can rap from here with 2 ropes, the rope drag (pulling the ropes) can be pretty bad.

Protection

8 bolts (1st bolt may be doubled) protect this route; 3 of which are actually on the 3rd pitch of I Can't Believe Its A Girdle. If you clip all the bolts and/or do not put longer runners on some, hideous rope drag will curse your ascent.

Pro is good, but some people get intimidated by the mantle/high step onto the dike above the 2nd bolt.

Photos

Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Twin ropes are a must if you want to climb this without rope drag. Otherwise you'll have to lower down and back-clean one of the bolts. The exciting mantle onto the dike makes the climb worth it. The rest of the route is just "ok". Jan 25, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
A seldom done and worthy obscurity. Balancy moves up the arete lead to an exciting mantle onto the dike - you don't want to blow that move. The upper face seems unlikely but goes at a reasonable grade (more traffic would help to clean this portion of the route). Three stars out of five. Feb 25, 2005

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