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O'Kelley's Crack
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 424
votes
Routes in Rusty Wall
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Cameltoe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4 |
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Finish What You Started T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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O'Kelley's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Slapshot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wangerbanger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03212, -116.17216 |
| FA: | Tobin Sorenson, Jim Wilson, Dean Fidelman & Gary Ayres, March 1975 |
| Page Views: | 37,404 total · 127/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Beck on Mar 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A gnarly 5.11 boulder problem start (cupped hands or fists and awkward tight fingers, can be aided) leads to stellar 5.10 hands up a gorgeous vertical wall. This route is as good as the best desert splitters and is on some of the best rock in jtree. In my opinion, the best route in the park by a signifigant margin and one of the best routes anywhere.
Photos
![Rusty Wall, showing [[105722356]] (L) and [[105722353]] (R).](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/3300535_smallMed_1557853125.jpg?cache=1760364344)
Videos
Cole Darby
BETA ALERT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UX82ctQBVQc
Jordan Cannon making i…
Mar 26, 2019
25 Comments