All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Rusty Wall

Wangerbanger

Name: Wangerbanger
Rating: 3.7

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Rusty Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cameltoe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4
	Finish What You Started T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	O'Kelley's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Slapshot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Wangerbanger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	34.03212, -116.17216
FA:	Tobin Sorenson, 1975
Page Views:	23,650 total · 80/month
Shared By:	Joe Collins on Jan 3, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Indian Creek at the Tree!!! The routes at Rusty Wall are fairly unusual by J-Tree standards: steep straight-in jamming more reminiscent of the Utah Desert that your typical quartz monzonite crag. You have O'Kelleys on the right side which tackles a desperate boulder problem to beautiful hands. To the left is O'Kelley's shorter but more demanding brother, Wangerbanger. Wangerbanger is fairly straight-forward by 5.11 J-Tree standards... no dicking with funky RPs, just plugging cams and climbing. As a result many people generally consider this fairly soft for 11c, though the percentage of leaders that end up dangling at the crux, just below the pod, is probably just as high as any other similarly graded climb.

So, anyway: The climb is short, but pithy. The crack begins as wide hands but thins to ring-locks just below the pod. Crank into the pod and cop a decent rest. The crux will be somewhere just below the pod depending on your hand size, though getting into the pod is also burly as hell. Continue upward through the pod system (harder than it looks!) to a funky mantle at the top.