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Routes in Rusty Wall

Finish What You Started T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maneater, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
O'Kelley's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slapshot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wangerbanger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1980
Page Views: 1,343 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb begins just right of O'Kelley's Crack and is distinguished by a shallow right-facing flake at the start. Lieback the flake (5.10) to it's end, clip a bolt and make some crimpy moves (crux) reaching for a hand jam under a tooth of rock below a jagged roof. Work right along the roof (strenuous to place gear) and then make some finishing face moves to top out just left of Finish What You Started. Descend by walking off.

Originally done with two bolts, which were placed on rappel, this now sports a single bolt making it a bit more necky. Three, maybe four stars out of five.

Protection

bolt, thin rack to 2.5"

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