Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
Page Views: 5,213 total · 32/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Sep 4, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+.

The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo. Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite. Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area. Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing.

P1) Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the rock. Trend left above the tree to the foot of an open groove (drilled angle piton), and then up the groove to double anchors.190' 5.7+ R

P2) Angle up left past a bolt at 20', and then left to the gray band of rock (bolt). Continue straight up past another bolt to the south summit ridge. 160' 5.8+ R

P3) 4th class up the ridge towards the summit until it steepens about 60' from the top.

P4) Go right to a bush in a groove below a chimney just below the summit. Up the slab and chimney to a fine summit(double anchors) and great views over the northern swell. 60' 5.4

Descent :- Rap the route. FA. Paul Ross Layne Potter 5th Sept 2005.


Cams:-#.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #3 camalot, #4 Friend. Two 60M ropes.
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The route starts in the gully on the SW side of the tower not SE .. sorry. Oct 27, 2005
Ben Folsom  
Maura H. and I did the second ascent of Toviah Tower on Sept. 24, 2006. Thanks for the bottle of Scotch left up there! We enjoyed it. I thought the first two pitches were great quality face climbing, and the summit and views couldn't be beat. Sep 26, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
Got lost on the second pitch, missed the very run out 2nd bolt, and took a huge (40+ feet) fall. I couldn't find the 2nd bolt (it blended into the rock very well!)and was within 10 feet of the anchor when I finally saw the bolt, tried to down climb/traverse to the bolt and slipped. Easy route otherwise, maybe another bolt could be added to the crux pitch? Great route that I will definitely repeat. Aug 27, 2011
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Good one Bob.. glad you had fun ! Sep 5, 2011
@Paul & Layne: nice route in scenic setting.

Been there April 23th 2018.

We did manage not to find the drilled angle piton in the first pitch, neither way up nor rapelling down.
Could it be gone somehow?
My lead climber Dieter was pretty brave so, working his way up the open groove to the double anchors of P1 without any protection.
We also seemed to ignore the "chimney" in the last pitch, eventually because it was really stormy that day,
ropes blowing to the right. So we went up straight from end of pitch 3 - a bit steep, sandy slab, but UIAA 5- ??? - was OK.
All together a great day out there - wonderful colored rock, great views, and no Scotch. Aug 15, 2018
the rapelling looks awkward from end of P1 on the way up, but works very well,
no matter you rapell very diagonal. Aug 15, 2018
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Well done Ullrich and Dieter ... It is not an easy tower to find ! .. I guess someone may have taken the drilled piton? Glad you had fun .. Thanks for the photos... Best Wishes from the UK. Aug 15, 2018