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Routes in Toviah Tower

Pyramid Expedition, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toviah Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
Page Views: 4,858 total, 33/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Sep 4, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+.

The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo. Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite. Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area. Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing.

P1) Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the rock. Trend left above the tree to the foot of an open groove (drilled angle piton), and then up the groove to double anchors.190' 5.7+ R

P2) Angle up left past a bolt at 20', and then left to the gray band of rock (bolt). Continue straight up past another bolt to the south summit ridge. 160' 5.8+ R

P3) 4th class up the ridge towards the summit until it steepens about 60' from the top.

P4) Go right to a bush in a groove below a chimney just below the summit. Up the slab and chimney to a fine summit(double anchors) and great views over the northern swell. 60' 5.4

Descent :- Rap the route. FA. Paul Ross Layne Potter 5th Sept 2005.


Cams:-#.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #3 camalot, #4 Friend. Two 60M ropes.
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Good one Bob.. glad you had fun ! Sep 5, 2011
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
Got lost on the second pitch, missed the very run out 2nd bolt, and took a huge (40+ feet) fall. I couldn't find the 2nd bolt (it blended into the rock very well!)and was within 10 feet of the anchor when I finally saw the bolt, tried to down climb/traverse to the bolt and slipped. Easy route otherwise, maybe another bolt could be added to the crux pitch? Great route that I will definitely repeat. Aug 27, 2011
Ben Folsom  
Maura H. and I did the second ascent of Toviah Tower on Sept. 24, 2006. Thanks for the bottle of Scotch left up there! We enjoyed it. I thought the first two pitches were great quality face climbing, and the summit and views couldn't be beat. Sep 26, 2006
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The route starts in the gully on the SW side of the tower not SE .. sorry. Oct 27, 2005