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Toviah Tower

5.8+, Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 5 votes
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Eagle Canyon > Toviah Tower

Description

Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+.

The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo. Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite. Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area. Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing.

P1) Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the rock. Trend left above the tree to the foot of an open groove (drilled angle piton), and then up the groove to double anchors.190' 5.7+ R

P2) Angle up left past a bolt at 20', and then left to the gray band of rock (bolt). Continue straight up past another bolt to the south summit ridge. 160' 5.8+ R

P3) 4th class up the ridge towards the summit until it steepens about 60' from the top.

P4) Go right to a bush in a groove below a chimney just below the summit. Up the slab and chimney to a fine summit(double anchors) and great views over the northern swell. 60' 5.4

Descent :- Rap the route. FA. Paul Ross Layne Potter 5th Sept 2005.

Protection

Cams:-#.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #3 camalot, #4 Friend. Two 60M ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

obviously not the second ascend - the Scotch was gone :( :) - but we did not aimed for this goodie anyway
[Hide Photo] obviously not the second ascend - the Scotch was gone :( :) - but we did not aimed for this goodie anyway
cool colored steepening slabbing
[Hide Photo] cool colored steepening slabbing
eventually the forth ascend, scenic views from the top
[Hide Photo] eventually the forth ascend, scenic views from the top
Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Toviah Tower, second ascent. Thanks Paul and Layne for the Scotch!
[Hide Photo] Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Toviah Tower, second ascent. Thanks Paul and Layne for the Scotch!
The route
[Hide Photo] The route
Top of Toviah
[Hide Photo] Top of Toviah
Ross and Potter on the first pitch. From here the route climbs to the left towards the notch . The summit is seen top right of the photo
[Hide Photo] Ross and Potter on the first pitch. From here the route climbs to the left towards the notch . The summit is seen top right of the photo
Toviah Tower from the north.
[Hide Photo] Toviah Tower from the north.
Toviah Tower from the Pyramid Ridge
[Hide Photo] Toviah Tower from the Pyramid Ridge
The 5.8 second pitch
[Hide Photo] The 5.8 second pitch
Paul on the summit of Toviah,and the view over the Northern San Rafael Swell
[Hide Photo] Paul on the summit of Toviah,and the view over the Northern San Rafael Swell

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] The route starts in the gully on the SW side of the tower not SE .. sorry. Oct 27, 2005
Ben Folsom
 
[Hide Comment] Maura H. and I did the second ascent of Toviah Tower on Sept. 24, 2006. Thanks for the bottle of Scotch left up there! We enjoyed it. I thought the first two pitches were great quality face climbing, and the summit and views couldn't be beat. Sep 26, 2006
Nunya Business
Your Mom
[Hide Comment] Got lost on the second pitch, missed the very run out 2nd bolt, and took a huge (40+ feet) fall. I couldn't find the 2nd bolt (it blended into the rock very well!)and was within 10 feet of the anchor when I finally saw the bolt, tried to down climb/traverse to the bolt and slipped. Easy route otherwise, maybe another bolt could be added to the crux pitch? Great route that I will definitely repeat. Aug 27, 2011
Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Good one Bob.. glad you had fun ! Sep 5, 2011
Ullrich Meyer
 
[Hide Comment] @Paul & Layne: nice route in scenic setting.

Been there April 23th 2018.

We did manage not to find the drilled angle piton in the first pitch, neither way up nor rapelling down.
Could it be gone somehow?
My lead climber Dieter was pretty brave so, working his way up the open groove to the double anchors of P1 without any protection.
We also seemed to ignore the "chimney" in the last pitch, eventually because it was really stormy that day,
ropes blowing to the right. So we went up straight from end of pitch 3 - a bit steep, sandy slab, but UIAA 5- ??? - was OK.
All together a great day out there - wonderful colored rock, great views, and no Scotch. Aug 15, 2018
Ullrich Meyer
 
[Hide Comment] PS.:
the rapelling looks awkward from end of P1 on the way up, but works very well,
no matter you rapell very diagonal. Aug 15, 2018
Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Well done Ullrich and Dieter ... It is not an easy tower to find ! .. I guess someone may have taken the drilled piton? Glad you had fun .. Thanks for the photos... Best Wishes from the UK. Aug 15, 2018