Community Pillar start

All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Magic Mountain > N Face > Community Pillar (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Community Pillar start

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Reviewing beta for the upper pitches.

My suggested first pitch of community pillar.

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5.0 from 2 votes

John Hegyes

Jul 12, 2007

“Community Pillar start”

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Nearby Photos

Community Pillar, with variations

plush belay ledge

Route Overlay Honeycomb Chimney & Community Pillar and a couple of descent options.

OW above the chockstone

Reviewing beta for the upper pitches.

Community Pillar start

My suggested first pitch of community pillar.

Jessica stemming her way up the P5 cave. Photo taken from the window/portal.

The start of the upper cave pitch.

Topo, trip report on tenthousandtoofar.com - search: community pillar

Community Pillar

Find yourself in the dark, unsure of which rap stations were the correct one for fear of not having a double-rope rappel? So did we. We got down with a single 70m and ~6 raps. To this day, unsure if we rapped Choc. flakes. View of the 2ndor3rd to last rap

Halfway up the 5th/cave pitch,per Handren book.

Gigette squeezes through the second tunnel of Community Pillar.

Near the top of the cave pitch. Amazing pitch!

Should've brought some lube - going for the crux squeeze on pitch 1 of Community Pillar. At 6'7" & 220 lbs, this took some time...

At the very top of the upper cave, just before the hidden exit.

John leading P2

second part of P2

5.6 chimney on the right

top of P3 (5.9 handcrack variation)

Start of pitch one; Just about to squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze through the tight hole of the chimney.

Mescalito

John attempting to squeeze through the slot on P1

On Community Pillar, looking out a cave

John finding a better way to finish P1

Bridge Mt

First rap station, look to climber's left to a huge pine tree, that's where second rap station is

First Rap station, down and to climber's right from the top out

Top of the 5.9 crux pitch.

Rap#5 is in a gully, tied to a boulder

At the start of the cave pitch looking up

Rap #3 anchor is down and to climber's right from where John is sitting

Looking up the wide crack to the belay at its top. After the first 30 feet or so, the crack is too wide for ordinary gear, but occasional opportunities arise for small stuff.

more tunneling

Near the top of the Handren book 3ed/offwidth pitch

Mescalito and Bridge

Second rap station. you can go down Chocolate Flakes (tricky) or go down the easy way

Rap #4 is down and to climber's right from here

Rap #2, this is the easy way, as seen from the big tree which serves as the rap #2 anchor.

the start

Rap #3 anchor

The start of the wide crack midway up the route.

Rap #4 make sure to go into the gully!! NOT to climber's right onto the face. go to the gully! that's where #5 anchor is.

Climbing the corner on the variation start to the right of the standard route.

P1 Start, original squeeze. (Note to leader) only bring .5, .75, and 1 to protect entrance to squeeze,and belay device. No helmet. Once thru the tight part there will be an ok chamber to haul ALL your gear up thru, rerack there for rest of P1. ENJOY!

In the top cave. Took her a while to squeeze thru the entrance with a dangling back pack.

Brass Wall

Top of the upper cave pitch.

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