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> Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Day Canyon
> Left Side (shady)
> Priapism Pillar
Wiley Cryote
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Priapism Pillar
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Brown Eye of Sauron T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Happily Ever Shafter S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Road Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Eclipse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Total Eclipse of the Shart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wiley Cryote T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 38.56887, -109.67729 |
| FA: | Evan Wisheropp |
| Page Views: | 786 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Mar 25, 2017 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Squigling crack with tight #5s featuring calf locks and the occasional tight knee. Begin in an easy chimney with .4-.75 for pro and then work up the squiggles with several #5s. I imagine someone with smaller knees could avoid the calf locks and find the grade 5.11-, while folks with thick knees like myself find it 5.11+. Find the kneebar rest and finish on nice overhanging hands.
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