Extending the anchor over the edge for a monolithic bottom managed tree anchor

Hi, so when I am setting up a top rope off of trees at the top I like to use a static rope and the Joshua tree method.  But that requires two trees.

This is the method I am talking about. Sorry this dudes video is not the best youtu.be/-mXPDDhuaSQ?si=4qZ…

But one honking tree is usually good enough right? Larger than my thigh means it’s good for a monolithic anchor right?

But if I set it up using the joshua system on only one point like a monolithic tree then I only have one strand from the tree to the master point.  This seems like a bad idea. This seems like the prime example of how you cut your rope from rubbing it on the same spot over the edge and then die because you have no redundancy.

So my question is what elegant and safe methods do you guys have for extending single point top rope anchors over the edge?

And can I do it with 7mm cordalette material? Or chaining slings together?

Just use the one tree twice. Now you have two strands.

Jack Kelly wrote:

Just use the one tree twice. Now you have two strands.

Oh… yeah… well duh

Don't forget edge protection, either. Using a coat or a backpack as padding seems like an invitation to have a bad time. It's easy enough to cut up an old hose to make protective sleeves, drill a couple holes, and run some paracord or 2mm accessory cord to hold it in place.

Call me paranoid, but I carry two and slip them on every time a rope is fixed over an edge. Nobody who's cut or core shot a rope thought, "That's the edge that will kill me."

Martin Colwell wrote:

But one honking tree is usually good enough right? Larger than my thigh means it’s good for a monolithic anchor right?

The size above ground doesn't tell the whole story. If you don't know what the roots are doing, there's no telling if this is a "good" or "bad" tree. I have seen two thigh-size trees coming down (by themselves) at my home crag.

Assuming the tree is set back a bit from the cliff, I'm all for "bounce-testing" it: Sling it at the base to minimize leverage, attach gri gri, and simulate a horizontal fall. I'm not svelte enough to apply the thigh standard to our local junipers (arguably shrubs), and have rapped off of several healthy individuals that are much narrower after proving that I couldn't move them. Were oneseed junipers not so strong and well-anchored, we'd have far less climbing here in NM. 

Obviously, the bounce test can't simulate what wind will do to a tall tree, and I probably wouldn't rap off of a spruce in a windstorm.

To a previous point, I'm all for protecting the rope(s) from abrasion, and there's more than one way to accomplish this. One that I often use is to place a good cam just below the cliff's edge and clove-hitch into it. Now the rope won't rub on the edge unless the cam pulls And my anchor is no longer monolithic. This does require me to top out (single line self-belay) to clean the anchor, and I often have paranoia about rodents chewing the rope at the summit. If you're not competent at rapping and ascending a single line don't do this. But even if you're just throwing your whole rig down from the top, you're eventually going to have to rap in to free a rope.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/200327885/is-this-almost-catastrophic#ForumMessage-200373153

i was doing same thing until this little .. excursion nearly took place. 

now i either rope protect it or just double tree/ nut a crack as mentioned 

it takes surprisingly little wiggle for a sheath to cut, seemingly . the severed part was where edge was, just pulled in for the Gram photo

A couple thoughts that might help 

Way back when I did some top rope instruction we would use 1" tubular webbing to construct the anchors. It is static rather than dynamic like your lead rope so subject to somewhat less abrasion from cyclical loading. Static rope would serve the same purpose.

A simple trick to achieve a degree of redundancy in your system if using a webbing sling is to put an overhand knot at each end of the sling. Clip in to the small overhand loops you've created at the ends. Now you have two isolated load bearing strands that you can position over the edge or where you anticipate abrasion. Do this twice and you have four independent load bearing strands in your anchor.

If the tree is super huge you can do the jtree system by using a tensionless hitch midline in the rope and routing the ends on opposite sides of the tree, though I'd advise padding the tree if you do it this way. Strongly recommend rope protectors as well- my favorite style is just a piece of tubular webbing with the end opened up and sealed that way so you can just thread your rope through it- basically an extra sheath layer that you can move around to where you need it. Putting in a rebelay like others have said is also good if you're fixing a line for TRS or rapping but not as useful for a regular bottom-managed TR like the post title says.