Entry level multipitch areas

Hey all, I saw some threads about this topic but I had some specific questions I’m hoping someone will be able to answer. I primarily climb in the red river gorge and the new river gorge, been trad climbing for a little less than a year now and have one multipitch under my belt so far (bedtime for bonzo @RRG). I’m hoping this upcoming spring to make a trip out west to do some easier multi pitch routes. Open to area suggestions but have been leaning towards the flatirons. I’ve seen there’s some area closures there when I’ll be around in March-April but was wondering if that would warrant changing destinations, seems like most of the areas I’d want to climb at would be open but wasn’t sure how traffic gets and if this is even a very beginner friendly area. Thanks in advance for any info you guys can spare! 

The Red Rocks / Vegas area has a wealth of easy multipitch, affordable accommodation and the cheapest rental cars in North America.  

J B wrote: The Red Rocks / Vegas area has a wealth of easy multipitch, affordable accommodation and the cheapest rental cars in North America.  

Thanks for the info! Red rocks was also on my list, the routes I know of there I think would maybe just be a bit much for me exposure wise where I’m currently at. Is there any lower angle stuff there or mostly vertical routes?

Owen Smith wrote:

Thanks for the info! Red rocks was also on my list, the routes I know of there I think would maybe just be a bit much for me exposure wise where I’m currently at. Is there any lower angle stuff there or mostly vertical routes?

Multi pitch and low exposure are very much at odds with each other. RR is mostly vertical/close to vertical. For example, "cat in the hat" is 5.6 but comes with definite exposure on the upper pitches. 

However, I'd suggest some 4th class or very low 5th class scrambles if you're very uncomfortable with exposure. Even some multi pitch slab routes could be a good fit in the 5.5-5.8 range depending on your ability level. Check out "racing lizards" at Pine Creek Canyon for an example. There are a number of lower angle moderates on the PSOM Slab there that are super fun, easy, and not exposed. "the big deal" is another route at that slab area to look at. 

Owen Smith wrote:

Thanks for the info! Red rocks was also on my list, the routes I know of there I think would maybe just be a bit much for me exposure wise where I’m currently at. Is there any lower angle stuff there or mostly vertical routes?

Red Rock has routes at a range of angles, though most of the classic moderates tend to be closer to vertical and somewhat exposed. Though steep (near vert) isn't necessarily a bad thing. A vertical route at an easy-moderate grade often means it is quite user-friendly. Lots of holds, lots of cracks for good pro, etc. By contrast, the slabby climbing of the Flatirons is often quite runout, and can be heads-up for a new leader. Red Rock is a better option overall than the Flatirons.

If you are feeling intimidated by the longer multi-pitch of Red Rock, and out west is general, another option is to head east for your trip. The East Coast has some of the best entry level short multipitch in the country. The Gunks in April would be a fantastic trip, and is an ideal place to get started on multipitch. Beware the stiff grades and start on very-easy graded routes, but even the 5.3s in the Gunks are outstanding and worth doing.

Cosmic Hotdog wrote:

Multi pitch and low exposure are very much at odds with each other. RR is mostly vertical/close to vertical. For example, "cat in the hat" is 5.6 but comes with definite exposure on the upper pitches. 

However, I'd suggest some 4th class or very low 5th class scrambles if you're very uncomfortable with exposure. Even some multi pitch slab routes could be a good fit in the 5.5-5.8 range depending on your ability level. Check out "racing lizards" at Pine Creek Canyon for an example. There are a number of lower angle moderates on the PSOM Slab there that are super fun, easy, and not exposed. "the big deal" is another route at that slab area to look at. 

4th and 5th class scrambles were also on the list! I’m not too bothered by exposure itself, mostly just looking for routes that would have somewhat straightforward gear as I’m unfamiliar with the rock out west, didn’t want to hop on a steep route and pump myself out trying to place gear as I’m not the quickest at it quite yet. 

Flatirons bird closures of note to the beginner climber include the Third Flatiron and the Matron, which are two of the better moderate formations. But there's plenty of stuff around especially if you include Eldorado Canyon (which you should). The runouts in the Flatirons can't be overstated, don't get lulled into a false sense of security by the grades, most of the routes there are scrambly no fall zones (for example the first pitch of the standard route up the first is the friction slab crux of the route and is a guaranteed 50 foot ground fall if you blow it). 

I live 30 minutes from the Flatirons and just took a trip to Red Rocks, I'd pick Red Rocks every single time for a trip. 

Eldo might be a better choice. Shorter approaches with multiple route choices. Help would be nearby. Red Rocks descents can be problematic. If BoCan routes are in shape then you could get some granite experience.

Seems you might want to hit up Cathedral or Seneca before your next big trip.

Owen Smith wrote:

4th and 5th class scrambles were also on the list! I’m not too bothered by exposure itself, mostly just looking for routes that would have somewhat straightforward gear as I’m unfamiliar with the rock out west, didn’t want to hop on a steep route and pump myself out trying to place gear as I’m not the quickest at it quite yet. 

Red Rock is fantastic for easy multipitch routes and would probably be great for you.  I cannot imagine you would get pumped on anything less than 5.9 at Red Rock, as the vertical routes at those grades are very highly featured.  You typically have ample comfortable stances for gear placement in between cruxy moves.  The nature of the rock is almost never pure crack, at the easier grades it's typically a crack in a sea of face holds.

Gunks. 

Not sure how long you’re looking for - but for a bunch of fun mixed sport / trad routes in late Spring, St. George area would be sweet! Only a few hours from Vegas and has awesome 3-4 pitch routes at Snow Canyon State Park:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105716820 and the Prophesy Wall: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105717250/prophesy-wall

It's not out west and a lot of the options in your desired range are going to be limited to 3-4 pitches but Looking Glass in NC might be a great choice if you're comfortable with 5.8. Its all less than vertical granite climbing so not as featured as Red Rocks but no exposed walk offs! If you can trust your feet, The Nose is one of the best 5.8 multi pitch climbs out there.

Bedtime is 5.6, so while I've climbed both it, and the nose at looking glass, I don't think it's what you are looking for.

Go to the Gunks.

Beautiful multi pitch all the way down to 5.3 (three pines, easy v, ...) that will really help you get your systems dialed.

Weather is less reliable in the gunks than out west, but I don’t know if there’s anywhere in the world with a denser concentration of high quality routes for a budding trad climber. Short straightforward approaches mean more time climbing. Yes the grades are stiff but just start out slow on some 3s and find your footing. At the lower ranges the gear is generally great, plentiful and straightforward to place from good stances. 

Lover's Leap

I recommend you visit them all, ASAP.

Jay Crew wrote:

Lover's Leap

Great suggestion Jay but maybe not for March-April. It will depend what kind of winter we get this year!

Thanks for all the responses everyone! Seems like general consensus is between the Gunks and Red Rocks so I’ll keep my list open to both! Originally planned out west just because we will have a week out of university and it would give us time to travel, gunks is feasibly a weekend trip for us so I’ll make sure to start looking into both! 

Cherokee Nunes wrote:

I recommend you visit them all, ASAP.

So far everywhere mentioned is on my list of spots to visit, just gotta get a bit stronger and get some more free time. 

Dave Baker wrote:

Bedtime is 5.6, so while I've climbed both it, and the nose at looking glass, I don't think it's what you are looking for.

Go to the Gunks.

Beautiful multi pitch all the way down to 5.3 (three pines, easy v, ...) that will really help you get your systems dialed.

I would say this is exactly what I am looking for! I did bedtime because of the bolted anchors and nice ledge, just seemed like a good intro multipitch. In no way do I think I’m prepared to be taking on anything over 4 pitches or so at the moment.

Edge of Time - Estes Park, CO