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How long should I wait after a drizzle to climb Red Rock?

Original Post
Viswa Rao · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 30

Hi everyone,

I'm sorry if this is an ignorant question, as I don't have any experience in Red Rock. My friends and I have a trip planned for the coming long weekend. There is a 50% chance of a drizzle on that Thursday and Friday (.02in and .05in, respectively). Does anyone know if the sandstone will be dry enough to climb a day after a light drizzle like this?

We already have hotels and flights booked, so cancelling would be a major bummer. But we also don't want to disrespect the area ethics and get jumped by the locals. Thank you!!!

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

It depends. A good rule of thumb is that if the sand on the ground is bone dry then you're good to go. If it's at all wet and gritty then it's a no go. Try picking it up and if it sticks to your fingers then it's wet but if it just slides through your fingers then it's probably dry enough. Also keep in mind that there are non-sandstone options available nearby as well.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Provided it only drizzles on Friday, pick a sunny climb for Saturday and you should be good. Like Eli said, wet ground in the particular location of your intended climb is a no-go.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Also keep in mind that desert rock that's in the sun will dry out relatively quickly and a few hours can make a huge difference if it's warm and sunny enough. If you're worried about it, consider trading out the alpine start for a leisurely late start around 10 or 11. Sleep in, make some dank brunch and enjoy a day of cragging on the first day while stuff dries out, and then tick off the big routes the next day or two.

I know it sucks that all of this is kind of wishy washy, especially when you're travelling but you don't want to be that asshole that breaks off a key hold on a mega-classic climb, of which red rocks has a fair amount. And some sections at red rocks contain some pretty damn soft rock so, depending on where you are, it might take much to break off a hold. Other parts have much more solid sandstone, but sometimes it can be tricky to distinguish between the two, especially if you aren't a local.

nathanael · · San Diego · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

Just don't post about it or you'll get random people who weren't there calling you out for climbing "wet rock" because they heard from a friend of a friend it might have rained sometime in the last 2 weeks.

Viswa Rao · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 30

Thank you for your responses everyone!! My group was leaning towards cancelling the trip, but you guys set our minds a bit more at ease. We will be sure to check the ground and rocks for dampness, and climb only the appropriate routes.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

It may be a good idea to do some research on nearby non-sandstone crags. There's plenty of limestone nearby at Mt. Charleston and virgin river gorge and probably a whole lot more that I don't know about. Hopefully some locals can chime in here as well. There's also a lifetime's worth of fun scrambling and hiking throughout calico basin where wet rock might not matter quite as much. 

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56
nathanael wrote: Just don't post about it or you'll get random people who weren't there calling you out for climbing "wet rock" because they heard from a friend of a friend it might have rained sometime in the last 2 weeks.

You just butthurt cause someone called you out for climbing wet stone MLK weekend?

Shane Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Current consensus is you can't climb for 3 to 5 days after rain, and you should not climb anytime the relative humidity is above 70%.  The susceptibility of aztec sandstone to moisture induced weakness should not be underestimated.   In fact, even rain in the forecast weakens the rock.  As such, it is recommended not to climb 3 to 5 days before it is forecasted to rain.    

Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,183

The Limestone Bible guide is an awesome read and has more info on all these worthy 'backup' options: The Grail Mt Potosi Arrow Canyon Sunset Alley Utah Hills Welcome Springs   
I feel these, along with Charleston and other Arizona Strip / St George areas,  should be listed in the RR front page so people have an easy time referencing this weird tri-state area

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676
Sandy Crimp wrote: Current consensus is you can't climb for 3 to 5 days after rain, and you should not climb anytime the relative humidity is above 70%.  The susceptibility of aztec sandstone to moisture induced weakness should not be underestimated.   In fact, even rain in the forecast weakens the rock.  As such, it is recommended not to climb 3 to 5 days before it is forecasted to rain.    

1. The last time someone stated what the current consensus was, they said it was three days. Now it is 3 to 5 days?? What is up with the wet rock inflation?

2. Who made this new 70% humidity rule up? I've been climbing in Red Rock for 15 years and I've never heard that rule. When did it go into effect?

3. And saving the best for last, wait what? Now we can't climb 3-5 days BEFORE it's forecast to rain?? You're kidding right?

Every time this question gets asked, someone comes on here professing to speak for the community, laying down the "consensus" and yet somehow we get a different answer each time. This one truly takes the cake, though.

Yes, it's rained and snowed substantially recently. It's going to take a while to dry out. But someone a month ago was saying wait 3 days after a TENTH of an INCH fell. Ridiculous.

And then there are the people on local Facebook groups that say that the BLM rangers should be out writing citations to violators of all these new wet rock rules. Unbelievable.

US Code 123432.1 Climbing in 70% humidity $340 fine and 10 days at CCDC. I better grab my hygrometer and keep it tethered to my harness!
Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
Sandy Crimp wrote: Current consensus is you can't climb for 3 to 5 days after rain, and you should not climb anytime the relative humidity is above 70%.  The susceptibility of aztec sandstone to moisture induced weakness should not be underestimated.   In fact, even rain in the forecast weakens the rock.  As such, it is recommended not to climb 3 to 5 days before it is forecasted to rain.    

Please refrain from taking the piss about this... people cant think for themselves. 

All the people (who arnt local, dont surf my break kook)
Stop offering your unqualified opinions.

Quick rule of thumb if the ground is wet... the rock is wet. If the rock is steep enough... its still wet dont climb. If you feel like you may be doing somthing wrong... you are. If people (locals) tell you "its too wet" it is.
The lime stone is not to be missed.  If yall come, get on some of the best lime stone in the western us. Seriously its fantastic. 
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Sandy Crimp wrote: Current consensus is you can't climb for 3 to 5 days after rain, and you should not climb anytime the relative humidity is above 70%.  The susceptibility of aztec sandstone to moisture induced weakness should not be underestimated.   In fact, even rain in the forecast weakens the rock.  As such, it is recommended not to climb 3 to 5 days before it is forecasted to rain.    

3-5 days before it rains? Now that's some funny stuff.

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 76
John Hegyes wrote:

1. The last time someone stated what the current consensus was, they said it was three days. Now it is 3 to 5 days?? What is up with the wet rock inflation?

2. Who made this new 70% humidity rule up? I've been climbing in Red Rock for 15 years and I've never heard that rule. When did it go into effect?

3. And saving the best for last, wait what? Now we can't climb 3-5 days BEFORE it's forecast to rain?? You're kidding right?

Every time this question gets asked, someone comes on here professing to speak for the community, laying down the "consensus" and yet somehow we get a different answer each time. This one truly takes the cake, though.

Yes, it's rained and snowed substantially recently. It's going to take a while to dry out. But someone a month ago was saying wait 3 days after a TENTH of an INCH fell. Ridiculous.

And then there are the people on local Facebook groups that say that the BLM rangers should be out writing citations to violators of all these new wet rock rules. Unbelievable.

US Code 123432.1 Climbing in 70% humidity $340 fine and 10 days at CCDC. I better grab my hygrometer and keep it tethered to my harness!

Woosh.

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1
John Hegyes wrote:

1. The last time someone stated what the current consensus was, they said it was three days. Now it is 3 to 5 days?? What is up with the wet rock inflation?

2. Who made this new 70% humidity rule up? I've been climbing in Red Rock for 15 years and I've never heard that rule. When did it go into effect?

3. And saving the best for last, wait what? Now we can't climb 3-5 days BEFORE it's forecast to rain?? You're kidding right?

Every time this question gets asked, someone comes on here professing to speak for the community, laying down the "consensus" and yet somehow we get a different answer each time. This one truly takes the cake, though.

Yes, it's rained and snowed substantially recently. It's going to take a while to dry out. But someone a month ago was saying wait 3 days after a TENTH of an INCH fell. Ridiculous.

And then there are the people on local Facebook groups that say that the BLM rangers should be out writing citations to violators of all these new wet rock rules. Unbelievable.

US Code 123432.1 Climbing in 70% humidity $340 fine and 10 days at CCDC. I better grab my hygrometer and keep it tethered to my harness!

lol John...might want to reread his post with a lil sarcasm ;)

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Big B wrote:

lol John...might want to reread his post with a lil sarcasm ;)

I can never really tell whether his posts are intended to be sarcasm or if he's actually serious. 

John Barritt · · The 405 · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,083
eli poss wrote:

I can never really tell whether his posts are intended to be sarcasm or if he's actually serious. 

Haven't you ever heard of dry humor?...... ;)

Edit to add: See what I did there? dry humor........
Whoosh....
Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,851

That is the best type of sarcasm

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
eli poss wrote:

I can never really tell whether his posts are intended to be sarcasm or if he's actually serious. 

Really? 

With lines like: "In fact, even rain in the forecast weakens the rock.  As such, it is recommended not to climb 3 to 5 days before it is forecasted to rain."

Apparently at least two others couldn't figure out the satire either.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
John Hegyes wrote:

1. The last time someone stated what the current consensus was, [remainder snipped]

You actually thought that post was serious?
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
John Barritt wrote:

Haven't you ever heard of dry humor?...... ;)

Edit to add: See why I did there? dry humor........
Whoosh....

I thoroughly enjoy dry humor. I also enjoy "crude humor", as it is labeled by people who don't have a sense of humor. But it's much funnier and less ambiguous in person than through text online. Nor am I a geologist or have any kind of expertise specifically with red rocks sandstone that might confirm my suspicions (with a level of certainty I'm comfortable with) about the validity of some of those statements. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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