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Mike Anderson
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Oct 22, 2009
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Nov 2004
· Points: 3,265
I often complain to my alter ego that nobody takes the time to mentor anymore, they just bitch about "kids these days" and sport climbing and gore tex and the like. Then I realized that I'm often guilty of that myself. So I hereby offer online mentoring, starting with the basics. The prerequisite to this course is to acquire and read/watch the following. They consist of history, skills, motivation and some philosophy: Lesson 1 - The fundamentals of climbing and experiencing the wilderness: Climbing in North America, by Chris Jones Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Boulding in America, by John Sherman - not necessarily to be read cover to cover, but to peruse and be inspired John Gill: Master of Rock, by Pat Ament Moving over Stone - movie Freedom of the Hills, by The Mountaineers Desert Solitaire, by Edward Abbey Lesson 2 - Developing skills and inspiring a lifelong ticklist: Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, by Allen Steck and Steve Roper - peruse/inspire Mountains of North America, by Fred Beckey - peruse/inspire Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, by Craig Luebben Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age, by Pat Ament Masters of Stone - movie Moving Over Stone Part II - movie The Art of Leading - movie Climbing Anchors, by John Long The Monkey Wrench Gang, by Edward Abbey The Rock Warrior's Way, by Arno Ilgner The Self Coached Climber, by Dan Hague Lesson 3 - Understanding climbing concepts informed by climbing history: Rock Jocks, Wall Rats and Hang Dogs, by John Long A History of Free Climbing in America: Wizards of Rock, by Pat Ament Big Walls: Breakthroughs on the Free Climbing Frontier by Paul Piana Ways to the Sky: A Historical Guide to North American Mountaineering by Andrew Selters Climb!: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering Performance Rock Climbing, by Dale Goddard One Move Too Many: How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndromes of Rock Climbing Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rock Climber, by Steve Roper The Way of the Peaceful Warrior, by Dan Millman Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High by Mark Twight Masters of Stone 2, 3 (they get kind of redundant after that) That should get you started. I'm curious: What would you put on your list?
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BrianH Pedaler
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Oct 22, 2009
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Santa Fe NM
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 50
Nice list! I've got to get some of those. I'd add--
How to be a Master Climber in 6 Lessons: Pat Ament Red Rock Odyssey, Classic Trad Climbs: Larry D'Angelo Downward Bound: Warren Harding
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Forestvonsinkafinger
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Oct 22, 2009
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Iowa
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 2,090
I would add the following literature: Hermann Buhl: Climbing Without Compromise: Reinhold Messner[Editor] The White Spider; Heinrich Harrer The Crystal Horizon: Reinhold Messner Eiger Dreams; Jon Krakauer Wilderness and the American Mind; Roderick Nash I could go on, but I feel these may be fundamentals in Mountain lit.
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Rick Blair
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Oct 22, 2009
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Denver
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 266
No way am I qualified to be anyone's mentor but if you are starting out in Colorado: Serious Play by Steve Dieckhoff The illustrations are incredible, I really feel like I am seeing the rock through someone else's eyes.
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Jeremy Monahan
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Oct 22, 2009
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 410
Ordeal by Piton by Steve Roper et. al. A bit hard to track down, the book covers Yosemite climbing history from the beginning through the eyes of the climbers. The photos alone make it worth reading, but some of the essays are truly classic.
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Dan 60D5H411
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Oct 22, 2009
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 3,436
I would have to add: Rock Climbing North America by Tim Toula Although not the most informative and sometimes inaccurate, this comprehensive guide pushed me to explore as many climbing spots as I could. It usually got me to the area and then I was left on my own to explore. Sometimes this was frustrating, while other times the adventure was more fulfilling than the climbing itself. Always did it help to improve my sense of direction and route finding skills, two absolute, must-have skills.
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Mark Cushman
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Oct 22, 2009
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Cumming, GA
· Joined Sep 2006
· Points: 975
I was just watching Dosage 3 the other day and thought that the segment on Ron Kauk would be an excellent video to demonstrate the beauty and grace of climbing. Did I just say that last part out loud?
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Tradster
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Oct 22, 2009
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Phoenix, AZ
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 0
'Touching the Void' by Joe Simpson. "Gorilla Monsoon' by John Long 'Thin Air' by Greg Child
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Erik W
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Oct 22, 2009
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Santa Cruz, CA
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 280
Self-Rescue; David Fasulo
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Buff Johnson
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Oct 22, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
The ANAMs Will Gadd's Ice Climbing Luebby's Basic Skills The Stand (It's good for when you are there, but can't go anywhere)
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matt davies
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Oct 22, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 25
"Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage" by Hermann Buhl
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camhead
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Oct 22, 2009
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Vandalia, Appalachia
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 1,240
Nice list, Mike. I like that you included the Monkey Wrench Gang, heh. To add to the list: Climbing Free, by Lynn Hill The High Lonesome, John Long (ed.), a compilation of essays by noted free soloists. And, though not climbing-related, Colin Fletcher wrote some great wilderness travel stuff: The Complete Walker, River, and The Man Who Walked Through Time are all excellent.
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Paul Shultz
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Oct 22, 2009
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Hudson, Ma
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 500
Ice World by Jeff Lowe On the Ridge Between Life and Death by David Roberts. I wish I could find my copy.
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Josh Brown
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Oct 26, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 20
Heidi Pesterfield's book Intro to lead climbing
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Cameron Walker
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Oct 26, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 5
Shantaram by David Gregory Roberts. Not really a book on climbing at all, about an adventurous life. Best book I've ever read I think.
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Stonyman Killough
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Oct 27, 2009
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Alabama
· Joined Jan 2008
· Points: 5,785
Wow, great books. I have one to add that I really enjoyed. "No Picnic On Mount Kenya" by Felice Benuzzi
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KHall
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Oct 27, 2009
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Nashville, TN
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 260
Basic Rockcraft / Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robbins. Not current, but these two books give some insight into how the original hardmen did business. Written and printed before cams and commercial harnesses, these books are the basis from which all other texts on the subject sprang forth. If want to learn how to pound a pin, jumar, place passive pro, or some tricks to get out of a sticky situation, these lessons are as old as the hills themselves. Good luck finding them if you don't have a copy.
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Tom Hanson
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Oct 27, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 950
Essential Reading: Downward Bound (A Mad Guide to Rock Climbing) An Ascent of Rum Doodle Mount Analog The Monkey Wrench Gang Film: Climbing the Street by Monty Python Race For Your Life Charlie Brown
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Tradster
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Oct 27, 2009
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Phoenix, AZ
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 0
KHall wrote:Basic Rockcraft / Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robbins. Not current, but these two books give some insight into how the original hardmen did business. Written and printed before cams and commercial harnesses, these books are the basis from which all other texts on the subject sprang forth. If want to learn how to pound a pin, jumar, place passive pro, or some tricks to get out of a sticky situation, these lessons are as old as the hills themselves. Good luck finding them if you don't have a copy. I have copies of both, plus Walt Wheelock's book on knots. They are the texts on climbing I learned from originally. I guess I'm dating myself here...
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Mike Dallin
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Oct 27, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2002
· Points: 15
Starlight and Storm by Gaston Rébuffat... you would be hardpressed to find a more lyrical description of the camaraderie among climbers anywhere ("Brotherhood of the Rope") Leave No Trace (lnt.org) has a number of outdoor skills and ethics booklets targeted to specific outdoor activities, including rock climbing, that are worth a read... among many other low-impact wilderness books.
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Ryan Huetter
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Oct 27, 2009
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Mammoth Lakes, CA
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 395
Climbing: Tales of TERROR! by Tami Knight.
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