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Trad rope?

Original Post
Eli Chase · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 0

Currently using a 40M mammut crag classic 9.5 dynamic rope which I got as I was getting into TR and my home crag (Devils lake) has fairly short pitches. Since then have made the leap into trad climbing & will be relocating to CO.
generally curious on length, diameter, treatment people find useful.
something like the 60M mammut 8.7 alpine sender seems nice but it is out of stock. and possibly overkill for my needs.
Thanks!

Daniel Campbell · · Salt Lake · Joined May 2019 · Points: 192

Any rope is fine for starters. get a 70m. something in the 9.x range will possible be safer and last longer, no need to go into the tiny 8.x range. If you're ever gonna rap on multipitch, get bipattern.

for example: mammut.com/us/en/products/2…

Wren Cooperrider · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 420

Depends on your needs. I have heard many crags in CO need a 70, and the extra length is useful if you're doing multipitch stuff or anything that requires rapping. I prefer larger diameter ropes since for me the extra resistance to abrasion is worth the added weight, but up to your preference. Dry treatments are just going to be extra money if you're using your rope for cragging or even multipitch w/ rapping, as it'll rub off after not that many pitches. Some people claim the dry treatment keeps dust out but that hasn't been my experience. Bipattern is really nice if you have the cash for sure. Mammut and Edelrid ropes have been my favorites but whatever is a reasonable price works tbh. Don't stress too much, ropes wear out and you'll know if you need something special by then.

Louka Hendricks · · Longmont, CO · Joined Apr 2025 · Points: 70

Here in CO a 70m is quite useful at a lot of crags. Only real downside is the extra weight and bulk, especially on short pitches. Unless you're doing long approach alpine climbing (where you'd want half ropes anyway), stick to the 9.2-9.6 mm range. Most crags here in CO have relatively short approaches. TL:DR, get a 9.2-9.6mm 70m.

Dan Mydans · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0

I would echo the 70 m suggestion. I have lived and climbed in the boulder area for 30 years and while I only recently got a 70 m I wouldn’t buy a 60 again. The extra rope with the 70 is really nice for multi pitch descents. A lot of routes used to require 2 ropes to get down but a single 70 works a lot of the time. In terms of diameter it kind of depends on how much and what types of climbing you’re doing. For a workhorse cragging rope I go a little thicker since it is more durable and resistant to cutting. My main rope is a mammoth 9.5 x 70 bicolor. For alpine where weight is a big deal I have a Beal opera type rope so about 9 mm x 70. It’s nice to have a lighter rope but they are definitely less durable.

Casey J · · NH · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

I run a edelrid swift protect pro 8.9 70m for most things. If you plan any real multi-pitches, the 70 will let you link a lot of pitches comfortably as well as eliminate a 2nd rope for rapping in some areas. I also really like sterling xeros rope-handling wise. I have a mammut as well, but it's definitely not my favorite. 

Andy B · · TooSun · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 736

Trad can eat up your rope, especially backcountry/adventure/alpine lines. I appreciate a few extra mil in my rope and don't really feel comfortable running the new fangled floss masquerading as single rope material over multiple sharp edges. So, if your sights are set on that flavor of adventure, I'd suggest something 9.5mm+. 70m is heavier but more versatile. 

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

Why this obsession with 70m ropes?? Truth is: 95+% (maybe 99% ?) of all climbing in CO (as the OP mentioned specificially) goes real nice with a 60m rope. Especially so with trad. A bunch of sport climbs are set up for 70m, but still a minority with a huge margin. Why haul around 10m of extra rope that you need to uselessly lift up at every belay spot? Yes, I bought a 70m once. I'm going to retire it due to old age, not due to wear. It still looks nearly new and I have worn out at least five 60m ropes after buying the 70m. My 60m are always taking all the beating. Eldo: 60m, Lumpy: 60m, Turkey Rocks: 60m, Vedauwoo: 60m, Indian Creek: 70m, Devils Tower: 70m, RMNP: a mix (depending on rappel). My advice for someone moving to CO for trad: Get a 60m and stay away from anything requiring a 70m. There's still a few lifetimes worth of climbing to be had.

Daniel Campbell · · Salt Lake · Joined May 2019 · Points: 192

10m of extra rope to carry is whatever. Safer on raps? Yes. Indian creek with a 70? Just got back from there and had multiple 80m rope stretchers.

A 70 also let's you cut ends where the majority of wear happens, and still have enough rope.

OP wants an all around rope, def get a 70.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 20,944

9.5mm to 10mm X 70mm rope. Brand is personal preference. You don't want those skinny ropes in the mountains. Those are for overhanging sport or where weight matters in thin air.  

Eric Craig · · Santa Cruz · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 5
  • From the Sterling website:

Aeros 9.2  56g/m = 8.6 lbs for a 70m rope                                        = 7.4 lbs for a 60m                 

Velocity  9.8 62g/m =9.5 lbs for 70m                                                     =8.2 lbs for 60m.                                                   = 6.8lbs for 50m

Tone Loc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 0

Suddenly realizing you don’t have enough rope is a significantly larger problem than having a little too much…that’s my philosophy.

Eric Craig · · Santa Cruz · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 5
Tone Locwrote:

Suddenly realizing you don’t have enough rope is a significantly larger problem than having a little too much…that’s my philosophy.

That's a reasonable approach.

Chosen rope length really does depend on: 1. What kind of climbs you intend to do. 2. Where you are going to be doing them. 3. Your experience. 4. How you like to get the job. 

Based on those things I am going to have to buy a 60m. Since I also like to prioritize traveling light, regardless of whether it's an easy little multi pitch or an El Cap route, I am also going to get a 50m, because I don't want to haul an extra 10 meters car to car when I don't need it. 

Daniel Campbell · · Salt Lake · Joined May 2019 · Points: 192

What about all the routes you don't know if you need a 60 or 70 for, even cragging routes. Walking somewhere, moving because it's busy and not being able to get on something because your rope is short is silly. Sure when you're certain a 50 is good but otherwise just get a longer one

Eric Craig · · Santa Cruz · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 5
Daniel Campbellwrote:

What about all the routes you don't know if you need a 60 or 70 for, even cragging routes. Walking somewhere, moving because it's busy and not being able to get on something because your rope is short is silly. Sure when you're certain a 50 is good but otherwise just get a longer one

I am sure I will be fine with my choices,  based on my experience. 

In all honesty Daniel,  I just got a real hatchet job on another thread. I sometimes post things here on MP that I know to be true, all based on considerable experience, but are controversial. It's almost always in the hope that someone will benefit from thinking about it. I am rarely, if ever, trying to tell anyone what to do. Also to be honest,  I doubt I have another El Cap route in me. It's been over 30 years. But who knows.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,175

It turns out there is no one right answer and you're not limited to having one rope. I have six or eight ropes I rotate through depending...

You being a newer climber I'd say the best advice so far is don't go too skinny until you figure when and why it is appropriate. 

You might also consider that how much you weigh might affect the diameter you might be comfortable with.

Cheers 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,142

My approach is to take all of my ropes with me no matter what I plan to climb, just in case.

Just kidding…

My vote is for a 9.2-9.5 mm 70 M. It’s going to be more versatile if you do any travelling. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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