New and experienced climbers over 50 #37

Jim Uwrote:

...bunch of magat nonsense...

^^^More typical proud boy conspiracy theory bs faux news lies from the deluded idiot magatry.  
Laptop is fake news.
Vaccines work.  Installing a creep science denier is part of the orwellian plan to destroy society.

NO one is doing more illegal searches and illegal data collection than the facist trumpeters, trying to find any dissidents and send them to concentration camps.

Encouragement of voluntary fact-checking works and has nothing to do with free speech suppression.  Otherwise media is taken over by puke spewing magats.

trump the traitor is the only leader who refused multiple requests to return documents, and lied and had all his lying lawyers lie about it.

trump the traitor started the insurrection and attempted coup and all of those convicted got very fair trials.

trump the traitor tried to overturn the 2020 election results in numerous states.

trump the liar and oligarchist:  "who is project2025, i've never heard of them."  As he proceeds to hand these creeps the top jobs and do their bidding to destroy government and install hacks in all federal jobs.

trump the idiot is ruining numerous companies by deporting productive workers.

trump the idiot got his knowledge about fixing foreign trade issues from a crackerJack box.

trump the elitist billionaire crook is using the job to make money off bribes, crooked deals such as Qatar, memecoins, and imported orange trash.

trump the corrupt felon is actually selling pardons to crooks and the mayor of NY.

trump the extortionist tried to extort Ukraine into a FAKE investigation of Biden.

trump the creep archvillain FACIST  is using the job to attempt to ruin those who don't lick his boots:  states, law firms, universities, attorneys, etc.

trump the FACIST has been enamored by dictators for many years, and wants to be just like them.

trump the authoritarian is trying to destroy the US justice system and turn it into loyalist favoritism.  The oligarchs have already bought the extreme court.

trump the science hater is leading the charge to destroy the livable climate and hand over more money to obsolete fossil-elitists,  As well as destroying all green industry, which was a growing and very productive part of the economy.

trump the science hater is doing his best to destroy science in America, which will be very harmful.

trump the felon was convicted of 34 counts of fraud and is still awaiting his deserved JAIL TIME.

trump the crook has formed his entire business plan for 50 years on screwing his partners, cheating on taxes, declaring backruptcy, and forming fake businesses such as trumpCollege and his fake charity and his fake property appraisals.

trump the rapist LOST his case in the rape trial.  On Tuesday, May 12, 2023, the Manhattan jury of nine men and three women found the former president liable for sexually abusing and defaming Carroll.

trump the racist continues decades later to claim that the exonerated central park 5 should have been executed.

trump the racist continues to stroke far right fake christian white nationalism.

trump the LIAR spewed his LIE about birtherism for years, yet refuses to show the data on Epstein.

that's all for now but the list of magatrump ANTI-accomplishments gets bigger every day.

GabeOwrote:

I occasionally climbed in comps, and definitely was inspired to new heights by them. That said, the last boulder comp i was in was probably close to 15 years ago, and a lot has changed. For one thing, all the problems are unnaturally "hoppy" now, which doorsy not suit my style (maybe J. Gill would approve).  And for another, no-one has a master's category any more. So I don't expect to do well. But whatever, I'll see how it goes. 

and the dynos are not healthy for old elbows and shoulders.

So much fun getting to finally meet Al. Fun night at Central Rock Glastonbury. 

phylp phylpwrote:

So much fun getting to finally meet Al. Fun night at Central Rock Glastonbury. 

Had a great time meeting and climbing with Phyl. The third person is our mutual friend Wayne Burleson

GabeOwrote:

For one thing, all the problems are unnaturally "hoppy" now, which doorsy not suit my style (maybe J. Gill would approve).  

GO

When I began climbing, "three point suspension" - inherited from the WWII military - was a basic rule. Static was the only way to go. If one dared to move more quickly it was contemptuously called "lunging".  It took a bit of effort for me to convince my climbing friends that there were more gymnastic or dynamic techniques to be tried. Now, I see parkour has made its way into the sport - which I would find inviting were I 50 years younger.   

Age 42 or so. 

More pictures of Medicare recipients climbing and falling yesterday because I ran out of lithium and have had to rely on homegrown to cure my TDS 

John Gillwrote:

When I began climbing, "three point suspension" - inherited from the WWII military - was a basic rule. Static was the only way to go. If one dared to move more quickly it was contemptuously called "lunging".  It took a bit of effort for me to convince my climbing friends that there were more gymnastic or dynamic techniques to be tried. Now, I see parkour has made its way into the sport - which I would find inviting were I 50 years younger.   

Age 42 or so. 

Even a decade after John 'introduced' dynamic climbing to the US, 'lunging' was still very much frowned upon by most of 'the establishment'---it was definitely considered to be 'bad form'. I distinctly remember being lectured to that effect by the climbing club 'elders' when I was a newbie. 

Now Trump has directed Bondi to release everything Epstein, because WSJ says they have a creepy Bday letter he sent to Epstein?

I’m starting to run low on popcorn…

Ever observe the phenomenon of a person in a longtime abusive marriage whose upbringing involved abusive parenting resulting in belief that abuse in a marriage is a normal, acceptable thing? And that when their spouse abuses them or does things that are harmful to others, they vociferously defend their spouse as being victimized by the world?

Does this sound like any political dynamic you've heard of lately?

Alan Rubinwrote:

Even a decade after John 'introduced' dynamic climbing to the US, 'lunging' was still very much frowned upon by most of 'the establishment'---it was definitely considered to be 'bad form'. I distinctly remember being lectured to that effect by the climbing club 'elders' when I was a newbie. 

I don't think this was just an unfounded bias.  It stemmed from the days when a lead fall was typically very bad news, and I imagine that in the seventies, when you were coming up, there were still very good reason to keep in control.  Whether you were still pounding in pitons (which you wouldn't want to do often) or fiddling in nuts - where you could find spots for them - there were probably long stretches of climbing in which a fall would be very risky.

I did gymnastics when I was a kid, so I really had nothing against dynamic movement, per se.  But when I started climbing, after a short period of only indoor and outdoor toproping, I began leading, and leading meant trad.  And for most new trad climbers (including me) it was deemed more than a little unwise to try a move in a way that was hard to recover if it didn't go well.  Dynamic moves, by definition, are that.  So I basically trained my body to move statically.  And, frankly, I spent pretty much all my time onsighting climbs.  As I kept at it, I was onsighting climbs closer to my limit.  That meant that I was often routefinding and gear-finding as I was climbing.  Again, a strong incentive to climb very statically and in control, so you could suss things out and potentially downclimb at any time.

Five years in or so, I discovered that sport climbing was a great way to get stronger, and have fun.  But there was little incentive to change the way I climbed.  So as I got stronger I just got better at doing everything statically.  I still was mostly interested in onsight trad climbing, and only rarely bouldered.  And when I did boulder, I did so very poorly.  

It was only twenty years in or so, after my daughter was born, that I started needing to sneak out for very quick sessions, since my time was much more limited.  Bouldering fit the bill.  Over the last seven years I've been doing much more bouldering, and it has definitely broadened my skills.

Today if you watch me boulder, you certainly wouldn't mistake me for a kid who started on the boulders.  I'm still much more static than most folks, but I'm definitely more comfortable getting hoppy when it seems the most efficient way to do a move - something I never would've done when I started.  And I'm sure it has bled over into my sport climbing, if not my trad climbing.

GO

apogeewrote:

Now Trump has directed Bondi to release everything Epstein, because WSJ says they have a creepy Bday letter he sent to Epstein?

I’m starting to run low on popcorn…

I don't believe that it is correct that he "directed Bondi to release everything Epstein". My understanding is that he instructed her to seek the release of "pertinent" portions of the Epstein grand jury transcript. Putting aside who determines what the 'pertinent' portions are---and pertinent to what, the information presented to the grand jury is almost always just a small part of the information obtained during an investigation and is focused on the specific individual (s) and charges for which an indictment ( a criminal charge brought by a grand jury) is being sought by the prosecution, so would likely not include anything concerning individuals or incidents not directly involved in those specific charges. Additionally, grand jury materials are under the control of the Court, not the executive branch, and considered to be confidential, with only very limited access as permitted by the Court.
So this 'directive' from Trump is really just adding more smoke to the smokescreen--the opposite of true transparency.

Alan, that was intended as an over-simplified, catty remark. Have a little fun with it.

It's finally cooling off! Bill and I got out on Dennis today. Here he is topping out on P2. I scared a skink going up the P2 crux (it startled me but I managed to hang on).

Note that neon orange rope. We used our brand new 8.9 mm diameter 70 m Sterling Nano   . Their 60 m ropes are all solid with a middle marker, but we like bicolor, so we got the 70 m in this rather hideous shade. I think this is going to be our go-to rope. But we might want to cut it. 70 m is overkill for most of the routes here. At least for anything that we tend to do. I do not understand why it's impossible to find a skinny bicolor 60 m rope these days. I love our old 9.0 mm 60 m rope, with its beautiful purple shade, but it's 5 years old and is starting to feel a bit stiff.

Nice, all you East Coasters getting busy out there.  Are any West Coast folks doing ANYTHING?  (except Guy and Jan who, once again, are going fishing.)

As usual, summer vacation here is going really great.  BIGLY.  The BEST.      And that's not an overstatement.  I will hate to see this end. 

I promised myself I would not only play this summer, but would also somehow stay fit enough to climb.  This is turning out to be a real project.  I'm not quite sure I'm doing enough.  

Bob has always said the best way to train for a route, is to climb the route.  But I think that implies a certain base fitness which I don't have.  My endurance is in the tank. My upper body strength is lacking.  It all seems to fade away SO quickly.  Is this anyone else's experience?  

Ward, are you training hard for your boulder project in November?  If so, how?

I wish we had a nearby climbing gym... but in the alternative, I am having my bike repaired so I can do some cardio in the neighborhood here.  I am back at Pilates.  And I have a gym workout with weights for my upper body and legs.  If LiHu were here he might coach.  I'm not sure what else I can do.

I also looked at running shoes at REI in Roseville, got a little confused by all the varieties.  Do I want 'Trail Runners" or 'Street Runners' and what's the difference?  Does anyone have a favorite pair of joggers for trails?  My hiking shoes are too clumsy for running.  

If I do get out on rock, I'm thinking of doing laps on longer routes... Brownie Girl Dome has some 100 foot routes, Hall of Horrors, even Turtle Rock.  Maybe just to wear myself out on familiar routes for a month or so... just to get in that mileage.  

I am doing a lot more stretching this summer so flexibility gets an A+.  And... the first few moves on my new route, stemming, I can now handle those on my own.  Stepping onto those faces, and holding there, is hard work.

I’d rather do hangs here than in a gym.

-----

I continue to be blown away by the athleticism that was here and in Yosemite (and related crags).  But understanding that these (mostly) guys trained and climbed sometimes 300 days a year, draws the difference.  Just in pure energy reserves and ability to climb steadily, I could not come close to that.  It's important to remember my age, and true limitations.  

Speaking mainly in First Person because I know everyone's mileage differs, but you may have insights of your own???

apogeewrote:

Now Trump has directed Bondi to release everything Epstein, because WSJ says they have a creepy Bday letter he sent to Epstein?

I’m starting to run low on popcorn…

come on by man I've got a huge re-fillable bucket.

this whole WSJ thing smells weird tho... I mean when was the last time you read of heard Trump use flowy language like that listed in the article..... plus you're gonna tell me if the biden regime had something salacious they wouldn't leaked it in a heartbeat???  did this letter happen before or after trump banned JE from mara largo?  honestly don't know.

My hand is still up for a wikileaks level dump of everything.  If that happens get ready for everyone whose about to be outed to "suddenly" announce retirement or start to PR campaign to "get in front of it"

dragonswrote:

It's finally cooling off! Bill and I got out on Dennis today. Here he is topping out on P2. I scared a skink going up the P2 crux (it startled me but I managed to hang on).

Note that neon orange rope. We used our brand new 8.9 mm diameter 70 m Sterling Nano   . Their 60 m ropes are all solid with a middle marker, but we like bicolor, so we got the 70 m in this rather hideous shade. I think this is going to be our go-to rope. But we might want to cut it. 70 m is overkill for most of the routes here. At least for anything that we tend to do. I do not understand why it's impossible to find a skinny bicolor 60 m rope these days. I love our old 9.0 mm 60 m rope, with its beautiful purple shade, but it's 5 years old and is starting to feel a bit stiff.

Oooooooohhhh! I cannae wait to meet the new rope!!!

:)

Williams and Steve Larsen were doing big dynamic moves way back in the 1960's, and Stannard picked up on it and applied it to cutting-edge climbs in the 1970's.  At first, it was all just "lunging," but quickly folks began to differentiate between deadpoint dynos, which are often reversible, and bigger dynos where the feet leave the footholds. Deadpoints found a place in the trad climber's arsenal, but feet-off dynos remained pretty rare.  Something that has changed these attitudes recently is the prevalence of head-pointing trad climbs.  This eliminates all the uncertainties and allows for big dynos to be practiced before they are done on the sharp end.

I'll never forget my first dyno on lead. Has anyone done Lunar Leap in YNP?

john baldwrote:

I'll never forget my first dyno on lead. Has anyone done Lunar Leap in YNP?

Many times.  The best nap ledge in all of the meadows.