New and experienced climbers over 50 #37

Randywrote:

This has to be the funniest thing I have read all week. Sorry to say, dishing out money has only begun.

Possibly but the few thousand she'll have at the end of the summer can't hurt! Another positive is the family discount that I hope to be getting,  they make great food at this market, my usual favorites being breakfast sandwiches made with cinnamon raisin whole wheat bread and the veggie-sausage egg and cheese muffin .

Buck Rogerswrote:

Congratulations! Love the name! Any relation to the amazing Santana song and their awesome performance of said song at Woodstock?

It is indeed, Buck.  An odd thing has happened over the last several years that I have been hiking to this formation about a mile away. It has always felt to me like it was home to a Native American family before. I can’t figure out if that was true, because there is no access to water there. But for me, it has become a temple.  There are all kinds of high perches on this rock and it’s a great lookout in every direction.  It has a wonderful vibe of peace.

Lori,

You had asked some questions about Smith, but now that I typed up a response, it looks like maybe you edited them out?

Here's the response anyway...

Lori, is your friend's name Carlos? If so I think I have met him. Darkness at noon is in the dihedrals, which is in the main, most heavily climbed portion of the park. The arete climb in your second photo is called Chain Reaction and goes at 5.12c not 5.8. Cry Baby is further east and not in the photo. The park itself is roughly about 660 acres but alot of climbing is on adjacent BLM land as well. Did it ever house native americans? Here’s some northern paiute legend about the place… 

According to Northern Paiute tradition, The legend of Smith’s creation arose from a time when the animals were the people of the earth, and the region was called the “Animal Village”, because “all the animals used to live there.”  Apparently, frustrated by the foolishness of the people that lived there, Coyote, who was the co-creator of the earth, along with Wolf “turned them all into stone. The animal people are now the individual spires and formations that we see in the park today.”

The spookiest legend by far tells the story of a giant cannibal named Nuwuzo’ho who wandered the land with his spear through the Animal village. He would look for rising trails of smoke, knowing that it would lead him to “animal people” to eat.  Legend has it that Coyote tricked Nuwuzo’ho into a contest to stop the killing, and he turned the defeated cannibal into a large rock pillar “still looking out over the land that he used to roam and terrorize.” Today Nuwuzo’ho can still be found looking out over the Animal village with drool coming out of his mouth, only today we call that pillar Monkey Face.

Nuwuzo’ho, or Monkey Face

What’s the weather like? Currently 60 degrees heading for a high of 83, but generally highs in the 80’s and 90’s with 10 to 15 days of triple digits in the summer and alot of freezing temps in the winter. Spring and fall are the most popular seasons for travellers, but the terrain is varied enough that climbing occurs year round.

Any nearby water? Yes, like the Robert Redford movie, a river runs through it.

Thank you, fossil. I did delete when I realized I might be talking about someone who doesn’t wanna be talked about. But the questions still stand and thank you for your response. I would sure love to see your special place.

Lori Milaswrote:

Thank you, fossil. I did delete when I realized I might be talking about someone who doesn’t wanna be talked about. But the questions still stand and thank you for your response. I would sure love to see your special place.

Hahaha! You mean to say there are climbers that don't want to be talked about by other climbers, especially when said talk is favorable? I've never met such a critter.

fossilwrote:

Hahaha! You mean to say there are climbers that don't want to be talked about by other climbers, especially when said talk is favorable? I've never met such a critter.

It is possible to mention folks without name dropping, i've found life is easier that way!

There's etiquette here... that I'm not totally up on.  Sharing pictures, without identifying the photographer... but apparently sharing the climber is ok without permission. (Nice when I'm catching other climbers, not so nice when someone gets an unflattering shot of me.)   But then there's things that are really not shareable.  And routes in progress... things like that.  It's easy to fuck up.  I can get yappy if it's something I'm excited about... but if I know it's confidential, it's safe with me.   

So, Tony and I were arguing today.  The original Iran deal with Obama... that Trump immediately cancelled when he first came into office in 2017.  How bad was it really?  I'm going back, trying to re-read news at the time to recall what the reasons were for shredding the deal.  Was it just spite that Trump cancelled it?  Or were there legit reasons?  Can a case be made that none of the current situation would have occured had the original deal stayed in place?  

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I'm kind of surprised that I climbed this route--Illusion Dweller.  I remember it feeling LONG.  I remember being worn out.  But, I did ok as far as climbing the crack.  Maybe I'm ready to join fossil up there in Oregon!     

Someone died here, not too long ago.  I haven't really been able to go back and enjoy the area.  Too sad. 

I followed Buck on "Minty" (5.3) today... here's the nice vert at the start of P2:

The leaning pine of Minty:
About 95 F in the shade! Didn't actually feel that hot though.
Ready to head back down. What a wonderful afternoon! Thanks, Buck!

dragonswrote:

I followed Buck on "Minty" (5.3) today... here's the nice vert at the start of P2:

The leaning pine of Minty:

About 95 F in the shade! Didn't actually feel that hot though.

Ready to head back down. What a wonderful afternoon! Thanks, Buck!

Thanks to you, Dragons for coming out in the heat and letting me lead it!

Great route, esp the second pitch when moving out onto the face and heading straight up!

Looking forward to our next outing!

Buck and Dragons---you guys are hard core!!! I could barely step outside today in the heat and humidity let alone climb!!!! Well, maybe when I was young like you folks.,......

Good job.

Lori--Illusion Dweller is really 'solid'--and true crack climbing.  Great job as well.

Alan Rubinwrote:

Buck and Dragons---you guys are hard core!!! I could barely step outside today in the heat and humidity let alone climb!!!! Well, maybe when I was young like you folks.,......

Good job.

It was hot and a bit humid. I almost backed out but Dragons called me weak and said, "Aren't you in the Army and supposed to be tough???"!

Ha! I did feel the sweat running down my legs at the second belay but fortunately we were in the shade!

Just another dream climb! Great stuff!

I worked on the side of a house.soffet and facia repair and replacement led to the discovery of a completely rotten exterior wall that we replaced right down to the sill.

Hot....

Buck Rogerswrote:

It was hot and a bit humid. I almost backed out but Dragons called me weak and said, "Aren't you in the Army and supposed to be tough???"!

Ha! I did feel the sweat running down my legs at the second belay but fortunately we were in the shade!

Just another dream climb! Great stuff!

Buck, your response should have been: "A smart soldier knows when to retreat".

Alan Rubinwrote:

Buck, your response should have been: "A smart soldier knows when to retreat".

Yes!!!

Alan Rubinwrote:

Buck, your response should have been: "A smart soldier knows when to retreat".

Not “retreat.”  Proper term is “retrograde action.”

Frank Steinwrote:

Not “retreat.”  Proper term is “retrograde action.”

Or, as exemplified by the Marines at Chosen Reservoir in Korea: "attacking in the other direction".

Another photo of rgold and me bouldering in Edwardian times, I have reached the top and am looking at the fearsome north overhang with trepidation. I don't recall whether rgold is the climber on the left or the one getting ready to attempt the overhang. He may be able to recall . . .

John Gillwrote:

Another photo of rgold and me bouldering in Edwardian times, I have reached the top and am looking at the fearsome north overhang with trepidation. I don't recall whether rgold is the climber on the left or the one getting ready to attempt the overhang. He may be able to recall . . .

Definitely looks familiar.  Pretty sure I had set up my daguerreotype camera for this shot, but then was too woozy from mercury vapor to try the North Overhang.

.

You guys are hilarious!

Buck Rogerswrote:

It was hot and a bit humid. I almost backed out but Dragons called me weak and said, "Aren't you in the Army and supposed to be tough???"!

Buck, I could tell that you were thinking of canceling out of concern for me! I figured you'd done far worse temps in full body armor.

Alan, I had actually checked out the Carriage Road the day before, and it seemed hot but bearable. The cliff face gets a lot of shade after 2 PM this time of year. That's about when we met, yesterday. In contrast, way back in 2012, I climbed Minty for the first time. It was around 10 AM just about this time of the year, with a party of three. Full glaring sun was on the cliff face. Must've been > 90F. I was a fairly new leader. I onsight led P2 and got slightly off-route, questing around for what seemed like eternity (probably felt the same for the followers lol). It was exhausting!