PNW Patagonia

My partner and I have a trip to Patagonia planned this winter, and we're looking for some route suggestions in the PNW. We live in CO and, as such, have access to good alpine rock but not very good/complex snow/alpine ice/glacier travel. We have experience ice climbing/couloir climbing, but less experience with complicated, glaciated approaches. The Bugaboos would be a good alternative (and we've been), but work constraints will require us to stay stateside. 

Any suggestions for big, complex routes in the PNW? We'd ideally like the prize to be good rock routes (up to ~5.11) but require some challenging terrain to access. Thanks!

Maybe north ridge or NW face of forbidden. Lots of shrund/moat shenanigans to access

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/104480-tr-forbidden-peak-nw-face-07172022/

I think there's a lot of glaciers to travel on the way to the gunsight range.

Both great suggestions - thanks guys!

The Girth Pillar on Mt Stuart - while I haven't been to Patagonia, my partner I climbed this route with has, and compared it in size and complexity to that setting. It will test your hiking fitness, routefinding, efficiency over a lot of moderate rock, glacier travel, some difficult crack climbing after a lot of mileage, and a big descent/hike out. I believe the glacier gets worse in later summer. The complete North Ridge of Stuart is an easier option that is still an excellent varied outing if done in a day.

In line with the forbidden routes (and nearby), the west arete up El Dorado will get a lot of glacier action and I imagine some fun routes in the Pickets fit the bill like inspiration, bear mountain, etc.

What sorts of routes are you interested in down in South America? Or are you bringing all sorts of gear (full on boots/gloves/tools/ice gear/etc) and just going to see how the weather looks but with the skills and inclination for anything included (crowded) snow and ice stuff?

If you're mostly interested in rock routes in Patagonia, I suspect the average climber would probably most improve their readiness by practicing climbing good rock in bad conditions with extra gear, etc. And doing it very quickly. Do lots of descents in the dark on purpose as practice.

Intentionally get on some granite cracks or rock routes that are wet, and/or climb them in the pre-dawn or dusk kinda darkness with headlamps, maybe even gloves, when tired, hauling stuff, etc.

-Liberty Crack but intentionally start it very late, so you climb most of it in the dark. Bonus if it had poured rain recently. Or link with other routes and don't bail if it starts sprinkling, just switch into mixed free/aid mode. Bring up lots of stuff, and then rappel the route. 

-WF Colchuck Balanced Rock twice, maybe both partners lead it once.

-Squamish/Index crack climbing in the dark and/or with backpacks, and/or shortly after rains, switching quickly from free to A0/A1.

For more legit glaciers, if you are limited by time or border issues to WA North Cascades:

Torment North Face or East Face

McMillan Spire North Face

South Face of Dome + West Face of North Gunsight as part of the Ptarmigan traverse

It might be better just to do your steep granite rock/crack climbing practice in Colorado, but come to WA for mountaineering and glacier travel with a trip through the Ptarmigan traverse, Isolation Traverse, or northern Pickets that doesn't include rock shoes or any serious rock climbing.

Blake really nailed it above. It’s really hard to get the same combination of sustained climbing and big approaches + glacier travel that you see in Patagonia (Patagonia is a huge region, I’m assuming we are specifically referring to the El Chalten area, and even more specifically the Fitz range). The Bugaboos really are the closest simulator in NA.

Assuming your primary objectives are rock routes in the Fitz range I would do the 3 things below:

1. Go now or within the next month or so to the North Cascades and do routes like Forbidden W Ridge, and any other classic alpine climb in the area (I’m honestly not that familiar with Cascades climbing  - I did like W Ridge tho!) Use this time to dial in your kit for big approaches w/glacier at the end, bivying on/near a glacier, dialing in boot/shoe and crampon comfortability etc, glacier travel, moving fast in complicated and mixed terrain, etc

2. Climb in RMNP practicing carrying the gear you will be carrying in Patagonia. Most notably this includes boots/crampons/tool, but also perhaps a light bivy kit etc depending on your desired routes in Patagonia. One idea: get a bivy permit for Broadway, climb to Broadway with a light bivy in the next couple weeks while there is still snow, bivy on Broadway, climb something like Pervertical with packs, maybe even consider carrying over the summit. Or just climb various other features in the Park with relatively full packs.

3. Go to Yosemite in the fall, work on climbing fast.

During Oct-Dec or so before your trip, keep climbing for volume and efficiency at around the 5.10-5.11- grade (on gear), and mix in A LOT of general mountain fitness. Big hikes with weight, ski touring, ice/mixed in the park for a little suffering, etc. Keep up nutrition and calories tho so you don’t get too stripped.

I’m by no means a Patagonia expert, I’ve only been once for a month but got lucky to have a bit of success (by my definition). Before and after I nerded out hard on gear, training, logistics etc. feel free to reach out if you want any additional beta etc.

do not underestimate how much time you should train with a heavy pack walking up and down steep trails.

poop mcfartwrote:

do not underestimate how much time you should train with a heavy pack walking up and down steep trails.

Somewhere steve house is smiling ear to ear and doesn’t know why 

Pickett Range.  Extra credit for traverse between N/S ranges.  Depending on your route there is plenty of both rock and glacier plus gnarly approaches with heavy gear and route finding.

Kevin Piarulliwrote:

The Girth Pillar on Mt Stuart - while I haven't been to Patagonia, my partner I climbed this route with has, and compared it in size and complexity to that setting. It will test your hiking fitness, routefinding, efficiency over a lot of moderate rock, glacier travel, some difficult crack climbing after a lot of mileage, and a big descent/hike out. I believe the glacier gets worse in later summer. The complete North Ridge of Stuart is an easier option that is still an excellent varied outing if done in a day.

It looks super rad. +1 for real crack climbing after a haul of an approach!

Thinking about 4-8 weeks there this winter, never been before. Any recommendations on finding lodging for that length of a trip? I’m a bit past hostel age :)

Also if there’s any other good resources with tips on the non-climbing logistics, I’d love to see. I’m sure this kind of question comes up all the time. I’ve only just started looking into it. Thanks!

Hi all--as the partner mentioned above, I just wanted to say thank you to everyone for all of the in depth beta! We really appreciate the time and thought everyone took with their responses. We're planning our trip now!