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Routes in Inspiration Peak

East Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: F.A. by Fred Beckey, Dave Collins, Ed Cooper in 1958
Page Views: 3,069 total · 49/month
Shared By: Harrison Dreves on Jul 25, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Goodell Creek Access Closed Details


Cross over the bergschrund, traverse a series of vegetated ledges, and then climb the ridge onto the east face. Climb a pitch of fist crack (crux) and traverse the spine to the summit.


Will need at least 1 #3 camalot for the crux pitch.


According to the rangers at the Marblemount station, the Goodell Creek access trail has been reopened. Jul 24, 2017
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
Some beta suggests doubles of #3 and triples of #2. What they leave out is that after placing a bunch of gear of all sizes on the crux pitch the anchor ledge only accepts small gear (fingers and smaller) in somewhat awkward placements.

Spoiler alert: What we did on the crux pitch is bump a single #3 until the crack narrows to a #2, leave the #3 and start bumping the #2 until the crack suddenly narrows to a .75. You can even take the number #2 with you after that and place it again later if you'd like but I don't think it gets bigger than a #1 after that. We also didn't even bring anything bigger than a #3 and were glad we didn't. Nov 17, 2017

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