New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #35

China thanks the Trump and Biden’s CHIPS act.

Thanks to isolationism and “bringing jobs back to America”, companies such as NVidia et al will be laying off highly paid workers. And if greedy American executives who had off shored manufacturing jobs to begin with bring back the USA manufacturing sector, those workers will be lucky making 1/20 their previous salaries. Wonderful news, right?

Great thinking, America! In the name of defence, Viva La bringing back low paying wages!

• Huawei is testing a new AI chip, the Ascend 910D, to compete with Nvidia’s top products.
• The company plans to ship over 800,000 Ascend 910B and 910C chips to Chinese tech firms this year.
• US restrictions on Nvidia are helping Huawei and other Chinese chipmakers grow their market share.”

On another front, I wished DOGE had gutted FTC first…

For those who feel that we have been exaggerating when some of us warned that the current Administration is a real threat to our climbing resources, I have learned that at few days ago Trump signed an executive order, to speed up the Environmental Impact Statement, to permit the transfer of the Oak Flat ( Queen Creek) area,  currently administered by the Forest Service, to the Resolution Copper Company to enable them to create a huge open pit mine there. Oak Flat is one of the major climbing areas near Phoenix and for years was the site of the Phoenix Bouldering Contest. It is also sacred ground to the Apache people, and a very scenic location. While the fight over this land transfer has been going on for years, and will undoubtedly continue, this is a major and very negative development---but fits totally with his support for aggressive resource exploitation.
As much as we wish otherwise, we can't really separate 'climbing' from politics--either on this thread or in the 'outside world'. If it can happen to Oak Flat it can happen to COR, the Sierra , or anywhere else under Federal jurisdiction. I am interested to hear how the Trump supporters in our online Over 50 community, feel about this development 

I’d guess that Resolution Copper Company would allow its employees to climb out there?

Everyone here who climbs there, a new career in open pit mining is waiting for you!  

M M wrote:

"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country."

Vonnegut

Definitely sounds like a Vonnegut quote.   

Vonnegut?

Li Hu wrote:

I’d guess that Resolution Copper Company would allow its employees to climb out there?

Everyone here who climbs there, a new career in open pit mining is waiting for you!  

Definitely sounds like a Vonnegut quote.   

Resolution is an underground project.  There are also plenty of open pit mines in AZ.

Alan Rubin wrote:

For those who feel that we have been exaggerating when some of us warned that the current Administration is a real threat to our climbing resources, I have learned that at few days ago Trump signed an executive order, to speed up the Environmental Impact Statement, to permit the transfer of the Oak Flat ( Queen Creek) area,  currently administered by the Forest Service, to the Resolution Copper Company to enable them to create a huge open pit mine there. Oak Flat is one of the major climbing areas near Phoenix and for years was the site of the Phoenix Bouldering Contest. It is also sacred ground to the Apache people, and a very scenic location. While the fight over this land transfer has been going on for years, and will undoubtedly continue, this is a major and very negative development---but fits totally with his support for aggressive resource exploitation.
As much as we wish otherwise, we can't really separate 'climbing' from politics--either on this thread or in the 'outside world'. If it can happen to Oak Flat it can happen to COR, the Sierra , or anywhere else under Federal jurisdiction. I am interested to hear how the Trump supporters in our online Over 50 community, feel about this development 

This whole thing started with Resolution copper donating mass amounts of money to just about every politician under the sun which resulted in the dirty politicians trying to sneak this land transfer into a "defense act bill" ...

It all started with Obama,  the same politician who appointed Monsanto cronies to run the FDA and USDA.

It's a pretty beautiful place up there, I've camped, climbed and bouldered up there many times, definitely an oasis in the desert 

I took a long hike yesterday and was reflecting on my own health relative to when I moved here five years ago. I think by almost any metric things are better, and I didn’t expect that.  I’m just wondering how you all are doing and if you think overall you are physically/mentally where you hoped or expected to be?

So that’s what I want to ask you all—anyone who feels like answering – – how’s it going for you now? Steady uphill, steady downhill, or a mix? how do you feel about the next five years of your life? Generally optimistic or not so much?  Either way, do you have explanations for the better or the worse – – things that have helped or hindered? Illness, lifestyle, etc.?  I guess I’m talking about your general fitness, strength, ability but it could be anything about getting older. 

I was thinking about some little indicators – – when I used to come home from a day of climbing, I would usually limp into the house bent over and miserable and sometimes drop wherever. It was a certainty that I wouldn’t sleep well that night, if at all. And it might take a couple days to recover at all .  My own energy was much more limited and I certainly couldn’t get out and hike every day.  

I still wear a WHOOP and so I have about four years of data. My sleep today is longer and deeper. My resting heart rate is much lower than it was before and usually and my respiration is lower. I think the most telling metric for me is my “recovery“ which used to be in the tank anytime I exercised. Now, even after a very vigorous day, I can still be in the green the following day and that’s a big deal.

So 71 is not what I expected. I realize I could have a heart attack or a stroke and maybe not survive it. The flu this year really hit me hard and I sure don’t wanna do that again.  But when I think about this route I want to climb it is so far over my head and out of the question for an old person yet I still feel totally capable of getting it.  For me that is a big surprise.

I guess I could add one more thing, maybe the most important thing for me, my thinking is sharper, and my reflexes are super fast relative to any other time in my life. I do worry about some new short term forgetfulness. But if something falls off a cabinet shelf, I catch it mid air every time. If I do forget a name I do eventually remember it.  And if I’m taking one of those AARP brain tests, I’m landing on that far right on the bell curve. I attribute that 100% to Climbing.

^^^
Here you go Lori, All...

Sing it Willie!

Lori Milas wrote:

I took a long hike yesterday and was reflecting on my own health relative to when I moved here five years ago. I think by almost any metric things are better, and I didn’t expect that.  I’m just wondering how you all are doing and if you think overall you are physically/mentally where you hoped or expected to be?

So that’s what I want to ask you all—anyone who feels like answering – – how’s it going for you now? Steady uphill, steady downhill, or a mix? how do you feel about the next five years of your life? Generally optimistic or not so much?  Either way, do you have explanations for the better or the worse – – things that have helped or hindered? Illness, lifestyle, etc.?  I guess I’m talking about your general fitness, strength, ability but it could be anything about getting older. 

I was thinking about some little indicators – – 

Most definitely not as strong for my weight in my youth, but have trained steadily over the past couple years or so to get where I am.

I can pull V7 bouldering moves in the gym or on rock without straining anything. Same with moves up to 5.12b/c, BUT whilst on those sport climbs my heart starts to beat really quickly. Sort of expected, of course. At that point, I’ll purposely drop off the climb. Simply let go.

As we age, we can probably get back most of our strength, perhaps not strength to weight ratio, but grip strength and ability to do pull-ups etc., but one thing we can’t change is that we are getting older.

“With caution” is my thought as I start to clip in.

Li Hu wrote:

Most definitely not as strong for my weight in my youth, but have trained steadily over the past couple years or so to get where I am.

I can pull V7 bouldering moves in the gym or on rock without straining anything. Same with moves up to 5.12b/c, BUT whilst on those sport climbs my heart starts to beat really quickly. Sort of expected, of course. At that point, I’ll purposely drop off the climb. Simply let go.

As we age, we can probably get back most of our strength, perhaps not strength to weight ratio, but grip strength and ability to do pull-ups etc., but one thing we can’t change is that we are getting older.

“With caution” is my thought as I start to clip in.

Those are impressive numbers, Li Hu!  Do you feel like you are having to take any more extraordinary measures to stay strong and stay in the game? How do you feel when you wake up in the morning?

Thinking about bouldering a V6 the thing that comes to mind is boldness. I may have mentioned this in a previous post, but I overheard Bob talking to someone about some “bold Climbers“ here in Joshua Tree—actually the very best elite athletes ever here.  I’m guessing that means strong, steady climbing and willingness to take big risks.  I’d like to develop more (some!) of that. I don’t know if this is a chic thing or an old thing, but if I can take a small step instead of a big one, if I can keep my feet under me, I will do that. Even when I cannot hurt myself because I’m on a top rope, I hesitate to make a wide balancey move or go sideways.  Or leap/dyno.  

I know there’s plenty of excellent female competition climbers but are we maybe more cautious as a whole? I’d like to think about taking more risks when I’m climbing. Probably really off-topic.  

Lori Milas wrote:

Those are impressive numbers, Li Hu!  Do you feel like you are having to take any more extraordinary measures to stay strong and stay in the game? How do you feel when you wake up in the morning?

After climbing days, generally tired, but otherwise okay because I never really push myself.

Thinking about bouldering a V6 the thing that comes to mind is boldness.

The grade doesn’t make it bold, and there’s no way I’d climb bold at this point in time.
 

I may have mentioned this in a previous post, but I overheard Bob talking to someone about some “bold Climbers“ here in Joshua Tree—actually the very best elite athletes ever here.  I’m guessing that means strong, steady climbing and willingness to take big risks.

Most strong climbers I know don’t think they are doing anything “bold or risky”. For them, it’s probably not.

I know there’s plenty of excellent female competition climbers but are we maybe more cautious as a whole? I’d like to think about taking more risks when I’m climbing. Probably really off-topic.  

I know quite a few strong female climbers of all ages. Mostly, there’s no point getting injured for exercise.

For me, climbing is exercise. Getting hurt doing something to get healthy isn’t conducive to staying in shape.

Lori Milas wrote:

are we maybe more cautious as a whole?

No, if you look at the risks involved in all aspects of procreation, women are far bigger risk-takers than men.

Edit to add: Bill and I got out on Belly Roll (5.4) this morning. Bill led P1 and I led P2 (it was probably actually P2 of Dennis).

Here's Bill at the top of P1. He's very well hidden, way up at the Dennis optional belay tree.

dragons wrote:

No, if you look at the risks involved in all aspects of procreation, women are far bigger risk-takers than men.

Edit to add: Bill and I got out on Belly Roll (5.4) this morning. Bill led P1 and I led P2 (it was probably actually P2 of Dennis).

Here's Bill at the top of P1. He's very well hidden, way up at the Dennis optional belay tree.

My 1st lead , it was only 5.3 then, got stung by a bee,

On risk taking, your in new paltz, that’s nothing, try being a woman in Idasippi!  Not that I am, if I was and child bearing age, it might be time to leave.

dragons wrote:

No, if you look at the risks involved in all aspects of procreation, women are far bigger risk-takers than men.

Edit to add: Bill and I got out on Belly Roll (5.4) this morning. Bill led P1 and I led P2 (it was probably actually P2 of Dennis).

Here's Bill at the top of P1. He's very well hidden, way up at the Dennis optional belay tree.

Did he go your way   

Tim Schafstall wrote:

Did he go your way   

Nope, he went up the thin crack  

We were hoping to do the 100% actual Belly Roll route today, but wound up on Dennis, similar to what you and I did last week.

The gray Dick specifically mentions the flake that I topped out on as an option for Dennis (not Belly Roll).

You're supposed to stay further right for Belly Roll ("up a left-facing corner system"). That area was wet today!

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

trying to get ready for a road trip somewhere warm and dry. thinking Gunk's and RRG?  wanted to hit Seneca as well but probably not enough time...  Trying to time the dry days and travel days and Seneca not cooperating. this is what it looks like at my house right now....

 

Nick

We were at Seneca Monday afternoon and left Thursday morning of last week. The weather was great. Maybe 3 cars in the old visitors parking lot and around 15 cars in the newer one, Visitor center is was not open due to lack of funding from Gov't. I believe that they will only be open Friday through Sunday. You can now get free wifi at both Yocums and Harpers.

I could not climb since I hurt my knee. I had an X-ray and there is no bone issues. I go this Friday for MRI. I also have a script for PT. We had planned a trip to meet up with an old friend and his girl friend. She purchased a used 23 ft camper. They were going to see how it was working. They live in MD. 3.5 hour drive to get to Seneca. They do not climb.

Jean and I were going to climb on Monday and then meet up with them in the afternoon, Jean did hike 3 days while we were there. I did drink and eat too much  at camp. We finally visited Spruce Knob which is the highest peak in WV.

We do have reservations for middle of June at COR. I have to see what the MRI says. I know that Jean wants to climb. We wanted to get to climb again with Brandt for a couple of days and maybe also Jay. If I can not climb, I will try to see who Jean and climb with.  

Our son lives in Sandy UT. I can always go to Maple Canyon for a day or two and be a belay slave for Jean.

John

https://www.accessfund.org/action-alerts/save-oak-flat

"Resolution Copper (RCM) intends to employ block caving at Oak Flat. This involves creating a mining infrastructure below the actual ore deposit that will cause the copper deposit itself and all of the ground above it to collapse over time, as the ore is extracted from below. By RCM’s own estimate, the resulting surface crater from this mining operation would be over a mile wide and 1,000 feet deep—consuming Oak Flat and all of its fantastic recreational and cultural resources."

Lori Milas wrote:

I know there’s plenty of excellent female competition climbers but are we maybe more cautious as a whole? I’d like to think about taking more risks when I’m climbing. Probably really off-topic.  

Lori, If you have an opportunity see the film 'Droping Molly'---it has been on some climbing and outdoor recreation film tours ( not Reel Rock) this past year, and you can likely find it steaming somewhere. You will see and learn a lot about one extremely bold female climber!!!!

Oldtradguy wrote:

Hey John, you're looking awfully serious there. Hope the knee heals up quickly.

So sorry you got hurt . We drove from the NEK to just north of Harrisburg today. 76f before the sun went down. Culture shock with all the people, traffic, sunshine, warm temps and blossoms..