New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #34

https://youtu.be/XCyFd6gwxtw 

Self-promotion would have been an embarrassment.

She dated John Long, in her youth,  lol. She's been around and among those who made their living from climbing, her whole life.

Frank Stein wrote:

This myth kind of drives me nuts…Bachar and Kauk were on network TV hawking Bic razors and Ford Broncos, respectively, Bridwell and Long had a Camel cig sponsorship, and even Lynn peddled French perfume in fashion mags. 

I do know about this Frank. And I wasn’t there. But I believe there was a point in time when things changed and climbers became very commercial. Obviously Bachar self promoted. Lynn Hill put on the Lycra and participated in those early competitions.  But I think in the interview she was talking about when it was just a cozy bunch of friends climbing , way before all that.  

I’m going to go out on a limb here but I’m really thinking about the 60s in general.  It’s very hard to describe to my own kids the sense of innocence we felt and the near total lack of commercialism.  We had a venue here called the Inglewood Forum.  There was no business name associated with it a la “Staples Center “.  I never saw a banner on the inside promoting Nike or Marlboro. We didn’t even think to carry a camera to catch that special shot.  We knew we were in the middle of something big, but we were more into just “being” than advertising.  So for me, it was quite disappointing to see that transition for Lynn and others, but quite consistent with the times. 

Lori Milas wrote:

 Lynn was describing the difference between the group she grew up with in Joshua Tree and Yosemite versus Climbers today. She said in her early years, climbers were “humble and discreet”.  They didn’t need to be known outside their immediate circle.  Self-promotion would have been an embarrassment.

Ha!  That's some revisionist history.

That they struggled for fortune and fame isn't in doubt.  But it wasn't for lack of trying.  

They were very well known outside their "circle".

Cherokee Nunes wrote:

She's been around and among those who made their living from climbing, her whole life.

Nothing wrong with that, it beats only fans although it may not pay as much…..

No, nothing wrong with being a professional climber. But I'm not moved by their plights; not Sasha's, not Lynn's, not anyone's. Lynn's generation opened guiding schools, published guidebooks, , built gyms, nurtured noobs into the sport, sold them training, videos, equipment and clothing, for decades; any way they could think of to milk the golden cow that is climbing.

The innocence of their youth notwithstanding. We were all innocent once. I'm not buying it.

Carl Schneider wrote:

With all your VO2 and beats per minute you people are analysing the FUCK out of yourselves. The only time I even know my blood pressure is once a year at the doctors. I do have a home blood pressure monitor but I don’t use it. I know it’s high and I do try to remember to take my tablet daily but basically I just eat, drink, smoke and do what I want.
I’ve even stopped weighing myself, there’s no point, I’m resigned with being Mr Tubby Tubster. But my endurance is still good.
What I want to know is how to remain motivated ‘cause my motivation is slipping away and I’m becoming comfortably numb. 

Mostly, for health reasons.

I’ve had high BP for quite a while now, and my doctor makes me monitor it, and only happen know my VO2 and other readings from my youth.

You’ve hit “another brick in the wall” it seems  

Getting back to what Lori mentioned about climbers in the “early days”, I agree with what Lynn stated. Most climbers did other things for a living, and climbed for personal satisfaction and exercise. You’ve likely not seen nor heard of the other 100 people who’ve done “so and so” climb.

Seems like nowadays there are many more people self promoting themselves. Likely insecurity or dissatisfaction with something else in their lives? Who knows? Definitely, climbing has become very popular, and with it, many personality types.

Just their own circle

Edit to add this fun tidbit:

Rock Climb Magnesia Lung, Los Angeles Basin 

Note Dave's comment on the route.  1980 "Eye on LA".  

I think I see why I can't climb for shit. I need to get some knee socks!

Cherokee Nunes wrote:

She dated John Long, in her youth,  lol. She's been around and among those who made their living from climbing, her whole life.

These are professional climbers, they needed to promote themselves.

It’s like consultant engineers, they bum themselves up so much, you’d think they invented the: automobile; first computer; designed the Eiffel Tower or whatever. But the bottom line is they get their work done well enough.

These climbers have taught and inspired many young climbers, and, to me, they got their job done. Got more people to climb.

Brian in SLC wrote:

Just their own circle

Brian …. Thanks for posting that. Made me laugh.

One thing I hate is the term “pro climber”… BITD everyone collected pop bottles so they could get the $1.75 needed to buy a copy of “Basic Rockcraft”.
So was Robbins a “pro”????

All I remember is this- no one had a dime except for the few trusafarians who were around. It cost about $20 for a weekend out at Josh, if you raided your Moms supply of canned food. You did what you needed to do to get that $20.

That movie was made a decade after John, Lynn and others had done remarkable climbing and long before anyone made any money off of the sport.

While doing research for the SP documentary I interviewed Glen Dawson and discovered that he was “sponsored” by, I believe Lipton Tea.
He told me that a “Add Man” approached him with the offer of $250 ( a small fortune in 1937) to hawk Chesterfield Cigarettes…. Only issue- Glen didn’t smoke, or drink.
So the man came back with an offer to get $$$ for saying Lipton Tea was the best.

VoMax…. Up thread a mention was made that climbing wasn’t all that aerobic. I disagree.

Lori posted a photo showing the Titanic at the Needles- no not the Miniature Needles in SD but the real honest to God Needles in the Sierra.
The first pitch of Titanic is a wide bastard - hardly ever climbed for good reason. Most folks opt for the “Women and Children first” variant to avoid that nightmare.

Anyway I was sitting there waiting my turn at the traverse pitch when I heard what I can only describe: “like a steam locomotive, struggling on a uphill grade, huffing and puffing hard..” came young Tony Yarano climbing the first pitch.
Yes climbing is THAT aerobic.

In the mid 80’s, so I could look good in Lycra, I got serous about training. Quit cigarettes, donuts and burgers. Joined a real gym and started doing the 90 minute “step aerobics” with the 24 year old woman who could go non-stop … now that is training.

Carl- I’m with you. No scientific instruments needed- just climb when your body says “go” sit and relax when it says “stop” EZ 

later all 

"They didn’t need to be known outside their immediate circle. Self-promotion would have been an embarrassment."

There are lots of great and accomplished climbers who fit the mold Lori describes. I've had the privilege to get to know a few of them. Sure, their names are known among the larger climbing community, but I always sensed an aversion to self promotion. I think it has to do with the knowledge that people outside their circle simply cannot understand. Seeking the admiration of people who can't relate seemed trivial. These were the climbers I gravitated to and from whom I learned the most. 

On an entirely unrelated matter, I feel compelled to engage in a bit of wife spray. And since she's a very serious athlete over 50, I think it fits in here. Barbara has a US Power Lifting Association comp in Texas next week, so she's at the peak of a six month cycle right now. While our house gets done she trains at American Iron Fitness here in Gillette. Here's a PB deadlift from last week..

190.4 Kilo / 419.78 lbs.

https://youtu.be/GL827gBjZ6s 

^^^

Holy wow! Powerful, but that almost hurts to watch.

Guy, you are right!  It’s the Titanic. I wish I could keep all these great climbers straight.  This guy looks pretty strong.     (On the Titanic)  Anyone know or knew him???  

Kris. I love how proud you are of Barb. She just walked over and picked that up.     WOW.

—-

Since I wasn’t here in the late 60’s early 70’s I was hoping some who were would talk about it.  That would include the Vulgarians.  I know things eventually changed—it was a painful time for me.  Once disco arrived I spent the next 40 years feeling like a stranger in a strange land.

And now we have this amazing opportunity to come full circle.  This morning I was out hiking alone, wind whipping and cold… I bumped into a fellow hippie/artist. He’s just glowing from a long private hike. I was considering checking out another “pile of rocks “.  Other than the two of us there was not a soul within miles. We always marvel at having so much open land to roam on.  I’m SO grateful for this time.  

"Never pass up the opportunity to get pumped."

phylp phylp wrote:

"Never pass up the opportunity to get pumped."

Just listened to a new interview with Tony Yaniro on the Nugget Podcast.  He was born the same year as I was, 1960, and put up the first 5.13b in the world in 1979.   Highly recommended.

I remember meeting him (TY) in the Anex parking lot. He was all scraped up from the Owl Roof. I was like whoa this guy is hard core! Skitz sneered in his typical dismissive way,

Kristian Solem wrote:

"On an entirely unrelated matter, I feel compelled to engage in a bit of wife spray. And since she's a very serious athlete over 50, I think it fits in here. Barbara has a US Power Lifting Association comp in Texas next week, so she's at the peak of a six month cycle right now. While our house gets done she trains at American Iron Fitness here in Gillette. Here's a PB deadlift from last week..

190.4 Kilo / 419.78 lbs.

https://youtu.be/GL827gBjZ6s 

She may see my sister at the Nationals in Las Vegas!

Wish her our best for the Masters in Texas!   

Guy wrote: “BITD everyone collected pop bottles so they could get the $1.75 needed to buy a copy of “Basic Rockcraft”.

Here’s Royal signing my copy of Basic Rockcraft, 40 years ago.

Yaniro is the strike fear word, for me. He was one of those who put up routes all over the place, nothing easy as far as I know, and some I've seen that are just....wtf. The word "thuggery" is in comments to this day, lol! I climb within close proximity of some Yaniros. Does that count???

Heart rate, using trackers....

My Fitbit has been alarmed a couple times lately.  It let me know I didn't appear to be moving for rather a long time, and had a very low heart rate. It could've just asked, "you still alive???" 

Yes, Mr F, still alive. Merely vegetating in front of Netflix/Prime (that's the not moving part) and....

Cold. Curled up in the comfy chair, legs pulled up, and that left hand stuffed between my shoulder and neck. Semi disabling the watch. 

Hence the near dead 40 bpm heart rate. 

Although Mr F also says I could be an elite athlete.