Discuss Trad Multipitch Gear Selection (other than fall pro)

if swinging leads i like to bring 240cm sling, 120cm sling, reverso, prussik cord, 4 wire gates, 2 hms lockers, 2 d lockers. if there’s bolted anchors i skip the 240cm sling. if i’m leading multiple pitches in a row i i bring an extra long sling or cordalette

Mike Cwrote:

I get the premise of repurposing an alpine draw at the end of a climb for tether and rappel extension, but I feel like that chews up a chunk of time to set up on-route for each climb.

Each should take you no longer than 10 seconds.

Tim B wrote:

2nd bringing 2 prusiks (particularly if ditching the gri gri). For self rescue stuff (ascending and creating hauling systems) 2 prusiks can be helpful - particularly if ditching the gri gri or if you drop something or your partner has it a pitch away.

Most versatile thing ever. ;)

Besides their use as ascenders or in z-pulley hauling, one can use them to help fix or unload a rope, and they are very handy as a rope handle to pull a difficult rap pull. Emergency slings or threads. Have not tried flossing with them.

• 1 Gri Gri + locker (for the team) to belay leader 
• ATC for guide mode / rappel 
• 1 HMS locker for belaying and rappeling
• 1 locker for guide mode - light as possible
• 1 locker for clove - light as possible
• 1 locker for PAS - light as possible
• Optional HMS locker if using Girth X master points 
• Third hand/prussik. Only one. You also have an ATC (and/or Grigri) and dyneema slings etc
• 180cm or 240cm dyneema slings for anchors (sometimes 120cm)
• Nut tool, metolius feather
• Rack everything on Nano 22's

I'm a big locker draw fan. I've repurposed two loops from a chain style metolious PAS\anchor. The lockers don't need to live on the chain so they are free until you need them. Can be used as a draw to protect along the route, an easy rap extension, anchor material\extender with extra rings (hang packs, shoes, additional climber spaces) etc. Racks clean and get used every time I go out climbing.

Short version to OP question: See highlight below.

Mike Cwrote:

2. There is no need to carry more than you can use at one time. Better to reuse gear for different purposes than carry dedicated purposed for everything.

7. Nobody mentioned a prussik... Do you guys all skip one?

A standard good ol' 2-foot (60 cm) nylon sling can be used for so many different purposes:

1) While leading, you use it for slinging natural features (trees, flakes, holes, ...).

2) When following, carry it over-the-shoulder and clip all the gear to it when cleaning. Super easy to hand over the gear at the next belay for sorting the rack. Also, with the correct cleaning sequence, you will eliminate any (?) possibility of dropping gear. When you get used to this, it is even convenient handing over a rack of draws when sport climbing.

3) Works nicely as a prussik (better check out the klemheist).

4) At rap stations, girth hitch it to your harness and use it as a PAS. 

5) Sometimes useful as part of building an anchor. 

6) When running out of draws on long pitches, re-use it as an alpine draw.

7) Extra extension on gear placements that may cause rope drag.

8) Clip your shoes to it before you take off your shoes at a multi-pitch anchor to prevent dropping your shoes.

9) Clip your nut tool to it while working a piece of gear so you don't drop the nut tool.

10) Use it as a gear sling if you get into a chimney/offwidth.

11) If you for some odd reason end up carrying a pack in a tight chimney, girth hitch the sling to your harness and then hang the pack in the sling below your feet.

Yes, all of these can be done with a dyneema as well, but for 1, 2, 3, 10, I prefer a nylon sling.

Give me a standard lead rack (draws, nuts, cams, nut tool, belay device). I'll add 3 over-the-shoulder nylon slings, 2 lockers, and 1 knife and I'm good to go. No prussik, no PAS, no cordelette, no quad, no radio, no gear sling, no pack, no water melon, no kitchen sink, no pizza oven ...

Edit: Occasionally I add walk-off shoes, tape gloves, rain/wind shell, chalk bag, carrot. Rarely water, knee pads, pack. Most of my climbing can be described as "trad cragging", 1-5 pitch lines with relatively easy bail-offs, no hanging belays, and fairly stable weather conditions.

Ditch the unrated hollow block.  Replace with rated (not dyneema or nylon) sling (sheathed spectra/kevlar with a bar tack is nice) which can double as a sling and a hollow block. Carry it like a sling with two non-lockers.  Better to have an extra draw than a cord you can only use for friction.

Live Perchedwrote:

Ditch the unrated hollow block.  

14kn

Patrikwrote:

A standard good ol' 2-foot (60 cm) nylon sling can be used for so many different purposes:

1) While leading, you use it for slinging natural features (trees, flakes, holes, ...).

2) When following, carry it over-the-shoulder and clip all the gear to it when cleaning. Super easy to hand over the gear at the next belay for sorting the rack. Also, with the correct cleaning sequence, you will eliminate any (?) possibility of dropping gear. When you get used to this, it is even convenient handing over a rack of draws when sport climbing.

3) Works nicely as a prussik (better check out the klemheist).

4) At rap stations, girth hitch it to your harness and use it as a PAS. 

5) Sometimes useful as part of building an anchor. 

6) When running out of draws on long pitches, re-use it as an alpine draw.

7) Extra extension on gear placements that may cause rope drag.

8) Clip your shoes to it before you take off your shoes at a multi-pitch anchor to prevent dropping your shoes.

9) Clip your nut tool to it while working a piece of gear so you don't drop the nut tool.

10) Use it as a gear sling if you get into a chimney/offwidth.

11) If you for some odd reason end up carrying a pack in a tight chimney, girth hitch the sling to your harness and then hang the pack in the sling below your feet.

Yes, all of these can be done with a dyneema as well, but for 1, 2, 3, 10, I prefer a nylon sling.

I carry three over-the-shoulder nylon slings. Add draws, nuts, cams, nut tool, belay device, knife and I'm good to go. No prussik, no PAS, no cordelette, no radio, no water melon, no kitchen sink, no pizza oven ...

There are some really nice hybrid material slings out there that might shave a little weight and bulk for a workhorse double like you describe.  I disagree on the cord, the prussic and the radios…and the pizza.

The HollowBlock is probably the least versatile version of a prusik because it has no core. Over time it has become clear that this is a liability and Sterling have had to update their guidance on its use and retirement. Here is what they currently say: https://sterlingrope.com/sterling-solid/retirement-guidelines-hollowblock2 

Of note is this part:

The HollowBlock2 is specifically designed to be used as a Friction Hitch on one or two life-safety ropes, as a backup to the safety system.

It should NEVER be used as the sole or primary connection point in any safety system.

Basically what this means is that the HollowBlock is only intended to be used as a 3rd hand below a rappel device. You should not clip into an anchor with it, and you should not use it as a prusik where it will be part of your primary safety system. I think that is a pretty limited application to take up valuable space on the harness.

Also worth carefully reading the part of that article about retirement. "The amount of strength reduction is extremely difficult to quantify without destructive testing." i.e. you cannot be sure it's safe once it gets a little beat up.

In 2025 I would get a prusik cord that has a core and is approved for clipping into things. The Beal Jammy or BlueWater VT Prusik would be examples. In fact Sterling themselves now sell a bunch of different prusik and hitch cord versions. I'm surprised they have not retired the HollowBlock from their product line, honestly.

James -wrote:

The HollowBlock is probably the least versatile version of a prusik because it has no core. Over time it has become clear that this is a liability and Sterling have had to update their guidance on its use and retirement. Here is what they currently say: https://sterlingrope.com/sterling-solid/retirement-guidelines-hollowblock2 

Of note is this part:

Basically what this means is that the HollowBlock is only intended to be used as a 3rd hand below a rappel device. You should not clip into an anchor with it, and you should not use it as a prusik where it will be part of your primary safety system. I think that is a pretty limited application to take up valuable space on the harness.

Also worth carefully reading the part of that article about retirement. "The amount of strength reduction is extremely difficult to quantify without destructive testing." i.e. you cannot be sure it's safe once it gets a little beat up.

In 2025 I would get a prusik cord that has a core and is approved for clipping into things. The Beal Jammy or BlueWater VT Prusik would be examples. In fact Sterling themselves now sell a bunch of different prusik and hitch cord versions. I'm surprised they have not retired the HollowBlock from their product line, honestly.

14kn seems pretty solid.  When I looked into buying one, I and the sales clerk at a dedicated climbing shop found no mention or documentation of a rating.  My experience is more consistent with this post.  I did not research the matter beyond visiting a shop and buying a sheathed rated sling instead of the Sterling hollow block. 

I bring ONE belay/rappel device.  Lately one of my prototype Ti stitch plates. 2 ovals to oppose, rather than one locker.

No lockers.

One chalk bag. Chalk bag string can be bail tat in a pinch.

Tie in with lead rope. Use slings, draws, whatever to clip in while rappelling. Use two separate ones if you need to to feel safe.  These are all part of the lead rack, which you're not using when descending.

There is speed in efficiency, and efficiency in bringing less.

OP, my wife and I each carry 21’ of 6mm spectra cord in a cordlette.  The argument that cordlette is unnecessary and one can use the rope instead is very valid.  

Arguments for:

It’s convenient when the anchor is weird AND NOT swinging leads  

When folded twice and tied in a figure 8; it  can be attached to two bolts without untying the 8

It’s the cheapest thing to leave behind on a bailout or to back up a tat anchor 

Ben Zartmanwrote:

I bring ONE belay/rappel device.  Lately one of my prototype Ti stitch plates. 2 ovals to oppose, rather than one locker.

No lockers.

One chalk bag. Chalk bag string can be bail tat in a pinch.

Tie in with lead rope. Use slings, draws, whatever to clip in while rappelling. Use two separate ones if you need to to feel safe.  These are all part of the lead rack, which you're not using when descending.

There is speed in efficiency, and efficiency in bringing less.

So no auto-blocking belay and no prussic? Are you using two non lockers at belay/rappel stations?  Do you have a rescue/rope ascent contingency?  

Calebwrote:

So no auto-blocking belay and no prussic? Are you using two non lockers at belay/rappel stations?  Do you have a rescue/rope ascent contingency?  

Neither.  I use as many non-lockers as it takes.  The OP is envisioning bolted anchors: one wiregate on one bolt, another on another bolt, a clove hitch to each.  If equalizing gear anchors with a long sling to make a masterpoint, two opposed wiregates are better than one locker.  When rappelling, slings girth-hitched to harness to tie into anchors.  If it's hanging and you want two clip-ins, use two slings with a wiregate on each.

Since I began climbing in 1992, I've never once had occasion to use an autoblock or prussik.  Nor have I ever seen anyone need to use one, or need a rescue contingency.  It just doesn't happen often enough to justify all the faff all the time.  I always have slings I can make Klemheists with.  That said, I don't guide: most of my climbing is with competent partners.  I'm sure guides need means and methods to rescue clients.  But none of my partners ever carried more than we thought we needed, since there was always so much already.

Most of the advice here is solid. But also is what works for these people.

I’m in agreement that you have too much stuff. I am firmly anti-quad and anti-PAS. There’s always a better option.

But the big takeaway should be WHY you carry what you do. It might change depending on the route, what your partner has, etc. 

The other thing to consider is if you need to facilitate a rescue, how will the tools you’re carrying serve you.
It’s become very popular to not carry cordalette or a tube style belay device on multi-pitch routes nowadays. I often don’t, but retrieving your belay device from a weighted system can be tricky without the ability to tie a solid friction hitch on the rope.

On the other end, it’s also become very popular to have a shitload of excess gear. Make a decision about what you actually need. For example, I see people with backpacks on 3 pitch routes. It ultimately gets in their way more than they use it. If it’s an overnight route you’ll want a bag, that’s a bit different though.

Learn to use what you have. Learn ALL the ways to use what you have. You’ll likely find redundancies in a lot of parts of your system. Then decide what fat to trim. There might be things you’re unwilling to compromise on for one reason or another 

You’ll probably epic a few times regardless. Most everyone does. Learn skills of how to safely and efficiently get up and down and how to do that with an incapacitated partner as well.
Have Fun

Calebwrote:

So no auto-blocking belay and no prussic? Are you using two non lockers at belay/rappel stations?  Do you have a rescue/rope ascent contingency?  

On a montitored belay anchor, you’ll find that wiregates are often just fine. If you or your partner is at the anchor the whole time it’s in use, odds are very low that something will just unclip.

For a rescue situation, it depends on the day. If I’m with a solid partner and it’s a relatively low commitment route, the most I’ll carry for that is a Petzl Tibloc. However, if it’s a more serious route, that kit grows and just rides on the back loop of my harness 

If you want to carry loads of gear, get a harness with more and bigger gear loops. It’ll feel better 

Garrett Hopkinswrote:

On a montitored belay anchor, you’ll find that wiregates are often just fine. If you or your partner is at the anchor the whole time it’s in use, odds are very low that something will just unclip.

To be clear I mean wiregates on the bolts or gear. NOT critical points of attachment like the belay device or your tether 

Garrett Hopkinswrote:

To be clear I mean wiregates on the bolts or gear. NOT critical points of attachment like the belay device or your tether 

This is where the wire gates or ovals make me uncomfortable.  Clipping two ‘biners to a bolt hanger on a tether sounds far worse than a locker.  Hanging an auto-blocking belay device off a wire gate also seems a step too far.  Further, do you need four ovals so you can clove yourself to the anchor, then belay the second?  

I also think the lack of a prussic is edgy.  Sure, we’ve all rappelled simply holding the brake strand.  I’ve also driven without a seat belt.  Once you get to freeing rope, retrieving gear or questing for anchor locations on rappel, some form of auto-stop is very practical.  

Also, belaying every pitch through a tube style just plain sucks.  Especially from above while stacking rope.  Or when the climbing gets hard and the whips add up.  

@Ben Zartman, the premise that single carabiners are observed, therefore safe, is just too close to the edge for me.  Not as an occasional thing, but as a practice.  It lacks redundancy.  A single moment of inattention could be catastrophic.  And the idea that you are experienced so you don’t need a self rescue option is exactly backwards.  The more you do this, the higher likelihood something will go wrong.  

I’m all for trimming weight.  Certainly your gear should cross from rack to rappel.  But there’s a point where the risks indicate preparedness that includes extra equipment.  

Also, we do this for fun.  A few extra comforts sometimes just make multipitch more enjoyable.  Weight vs convenience is a new equation every time.

Thanks everyone for all the commentary on this topic. It is very interesting to see the significantly varying responses to this topic. I am seeing how the choices are quite individualized based on style of climb, risk/preparedness tolerance, and preferences for specific dedicated gear.

I’ve always been on the more risk adverse side of climbing (I’m just coming around to being ok with a single tether) and have yet to do routes where extra weight really punishes you. The guides we have used to get introduced to trad had a good quote (for us Gumbys) that “It’s better to climb heavy than scared”. I think I need some mileage to figure out what I need and what I don’t. That being said I’ve picked up a ton of useful thoughts from this thread.

I am interested in the universal distaste for a sling anchor on multipitch. Most if not all the online content from accredited mountaineering groups (e.g., AMGA) demonstrates the use of a pretied quad anchor for multipitch rappel transitions. It seems the recommendation is a rope anchor on the way up (something I’m quite comfortable with) and a pre-tied anchor on the way down.

The guide we did our first couple multipitch routes with used rope anchors for all intermediate anchors and a sling quad for the final anchor and rappel transitions on the way down.