Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE pt2

Josh wrote:

........

Awesome answer Josh.

Cole Lawrence wrote:

Give me fresh bolts and 2 clippable steel lower offs and I am not going to complain about 99.9% of the ways which they can be configured.

System must:

- not twist rope
- installer must purposely configure set up with extension and not equalized just to piss people off

- must not twist the rope

- must not twist the fucking rope

Clean it however you want. Climb on it however you want. Replace shit, donate. All of this hardware is so damn beautiful - it has come so far from the days of rusty sharp hangers with no links, spaced horizontally 2 feet apart. With two clippable points, and the option to back it up… c’mon

rope twisting is a very interesting topic (that extends way beyond anchor configuration).  this link is a great start on your way down the rabbit hole:

Edelrid Rope Twisting Video (in german with english subtitles)

the short version - pretty much everything we do in terms of rope handling has the potential to introduce kinks...

New anchor. Experimented with some heat tinted quicklinks and chain. Honestly not recommended. 

Jake R wrote:

New anchor. Experimented with some heat tinted quicklinks and chain. Honestly not recommended. 

I've been thinking about this. Why don't you recommend it?

I found the process to be time consuming and  inconsistent. The hardware even tho it changed color it still retains a good amount of its shine when in the sun which is the whole reason to tint in the first place for low vis. Also tinting quicklinks can be touchy, 2 of mine seized up when heating the thread nut. SS quick links aren’t cheap especially in 3/8ths. Chain is fine but will take more time than you think with a torch. I found that even tho paint doesn’t adhere that well to SS it’s still a better option for me and will be super good enough for a long time. 

Jake R wrote:

New anchor. Experimented with some heat tinted quicklinks and chain. Honestly not recommended. 

Jake, this hardware and anchor set-up looks great!

Absolutely qualifies as beautiful.

I just heat up my gas grill to about 600f, put the hardware on the grate, and then shut the lid for an hour or so with the grill on. The hardware isn’t exposed to direct flame on my grill. It really couldn’t be easier. I’ve never had an issue and I think the finish looks amazing. It’s certainly duller, more natural appearing, and less obvious once installed on the rock. 

Past User wrote:

Jake, this hardware and anchor set-up looks great!

Absolutely qualifies as beautiful.

I just heat up my gas grill to about 600f, put the hardware on the grate, and then shut the lid for an hour or so with the grill on. The hardware isn’t exposed to direct flame on my grill. It really couldn’t be easier. I’ve never had an issue and I think the finish looks amazing. It’s certainly duller, more natural appearing, and less obvious once installed on the rock. 

Thank you.

Woah never thought of the half baked method haha. Have you had any quicklinks lock up? I used a blow torch and they were hanging on a metal wire which could have been a contributing factor.

Keep the beautiful hardware coming! 

Jake R wrote:

Thank you.

Woah never thought of the half baked method haha. Have you had any quicklinks lock up? I used a blow torch and they were hanging on a metal wire which could have been a contributing factor.

Keep the beautiful hardware coming! 

I’ve never experienced a quick link locking up from heating in my grill, no. Try putting anti-seize on the threads ahead of time to be sure.

BTW work in my zone is mainly on dirty limestones and the climate is somewhat wet and very seasonal. (Rocky Mountain Climate)

I have upgraded and removed countless sets of washer stack anchors with old plated 5-pieces stacked with galvanized washers and attached directly to non-stainless 3/8” oxidized chain that are 35 years or older. Some chain-sets were galvanized at one time, but the galvanization is long long gone. I’ve removed and ground into these rusty chains time and time again to inspect it and never one time has the steel been oxidized/weakened at a depth that is even slightly concerning. My experience has shown that (in my climate at least) using non-stainless chain is absolutely acceptable. It’s also obviously a lot cheaper, and if you use the right paint and etch the chain/strip the galvanization before the painting, the paint sticks for a LONG time. Even decades. Same holds for non-stainless screwlinks- strip the galvanization with vinegar, rinse with fresh water , dry and then paint with a quality self-etching automotive primer, and finally apply anti-seize to the threads before you install them. Of course, only SS is acceptable and advisable for the bolts and hangers themselves.

Just saying this because if you prefer to paint your anchors, consider using readily available carbon steel components to attach to those heat-tinted ss bolts/hangers:)

Even with the extreme mixed-metal generated corrosion into the carbon steel chain as seen above, that top link was actually not deeply corroded below the surface enough to significantly weaken the chain strength for climbing forces. I have been continually surprised by this. The old five-pieces themselves are the primary concern and the potential failure point.

Galvanization (Zinc) can stain the rock, and kill lichens. It's super obvious on granite, but shows on other rocks types as well.
It's more than just corrosion, we need to think about the whole impact when installing hardware. Zinc plated metals, IMO, should not be used outside.

Not the best angle of this particular anchor....but see the bright white streaks in the image below? Zinc impact.

Edit to not take up more space:
PSA

Mr Rogers wrote:

Galvanization (Zinc) can stain the rock, and kill lichens. It's super obvious on granite, but shows on other rocks types as well.
It's more than just corrosion, we need to think about the whole impact when installing hardware. Zinc plated metals, IMO, should not be used outside.

Not the best angle of this particular anchor....but see the bright white streaks in the image below? Zinc impact.

Did you miss the part in the above post about removing the zinc plating with vinegar and then painting the bare carbon steel? Or perhaps this is  just a a general PSA?

Belay station was relocated to a better location a few feet right of this original 30 year old manker.

Here’s an anchor I recently installed. 8mm lappas solid leg glue ins with a 12mm lappas captive eye biner on the top bolt and a 10mm Climbing taiwan captive carabiner below.

Hanger color match next to a piece of chert from the wall they’ll be going on.

That’s an amazing camo job!

 (but that’s not chert)

What’s the term for it?  I’ve always heard it called chert on Nevada linestone

I could be wrong! (But I did used to work as a geologist) What crag is it from? Pics? It appears very igneous… pegmatitic even… it that from a limestone crag in NV? 

Currently an undisclosed location crag that I haven’t got pictures of in Nevada but similar rock bands exist all around at Mt Potosi or Charleston.  Grey linestone with mainly horizontal and sometimes vertical blobby banding of darker rock like thi.

A new one from a multipitch today where minimizing visual impact is a top priority

Great paint job or fascinating SS corrosion?