Did Someone add a bolt(s) to Book of Hate?

I placed the bolt. I was scared. And then I figured why not add another bolt. 1 bolt is better than two. Then I aided the rest to the top.

I am claiming first bolted mixed free/Aid ascent.
I am better than everyone .

Aaron K wrote:

Can we finally put the "just don't clip the bolt" argument to bed?

We already did years ago. 

https://youtu.be/-TeTejh1ebs?si=H0Tm2lq5mjE26pUM

I'm just here for the "CHILL THE FUCK OUT!!!!" irony.

that guy named seb wrote:

We already did years ago. 

https://youtu.be/-TeTejh1ebs?si=H0Tm2lq5mjE26pUM

This guy may climb hard AF but his tactics seem kinda off. first he places a cam between two tufas, talks about it moving too much to be trustworthy yet doesn't lengthen anything with any runners to keep the cam from moving.  Then he gets to the halfway point of the climb and uses a rope he trailed to pull up some cams for the next section claiming that the extra cams would have been too much weight? My 5.10- mind would think that bringing the gear, not trailing a second rope and not hanging on for 5 minutes while sorting gear and dropping the second rope may have been easier. 

M M wrote:

This guy may climb hard AF but his tactics seem kinda off. .......My 5.10- mind would think that...

... Are you high? That was a demonstration of absolute mastery..... it is true, you wouldn't have thought that.

Jay Crew wrote:

... Are you high? That was a demonstration of absolute mastery..... it is true, you wouldn't have thought that.

Yes, he sent,  we got that

M M wrote:

This guy may climb hard AF but his tactics seem kinda off. first he places a cam between two tufas, talks about it moving too much to be trustworthy yet doesn't lengthen anything with any runners to keep the cam from moving.  Then he gets to the halfway point of the climb and uses a rope he trailed to pull up some cams for the next section claiming that the extra cams would have been too much weight? My 5.10- mind would think that bringing the gear, not trailing a second rope and not hanging on for 5 minutes while sorting gear and dropping the second rope may have been easier. 

And what’s up with the extension on everything looked like it was tied dyneema slings? The YouTube comments also seemed quite amazed Im more confused. 

In other news I do believe the bolt was chopped already. I heard Randy sent someone with an angle grinder to chop it. Which is funny considering you can get almost all new bolts out with just a wrench.

A shower of sparks cascading down, is however, significantly more symbolic than ratchet chatter. 

Hopefully it was carefully patched. Any word on who placed it in the first place?

Tristan Bradford wrote:

... Which is funny considering you can get almost all new bolts out with just a wrench.

incorrect.

tom donnelly wrote:

incorrect.

He's right though that wedges and sleeves are pretty easy to remove without angle grinders, especially when they're newer and haven't become one with the rock yet. But yeah it's a lot more involved than just a wrench. 

I’d be curious to know if there are any repeated routes on El Cap that have not had bolts added?  It curious how it’s sometimes ok and sometimes not.

The nature of the send is absolutely worth discussing on an elite level, test piece, TRAD climb. The bolt 100% changes the climb and lowers the accomplishment. 

Bruno Schull wrote:

• Sasha Digulian is a badass climber, and it's not her fault that she's also beautiful.  Power to her to make money and build a career and life based on her gifts.  

Jeeze you are creepy per usual. 

I was looking at Hannes Puman’s instagram and saw that he climbed Book of Hate in November, I think possibly prior to Sasha and Laura. I’m not saying he was responsible for the bolting either, but it seems telling that nobody jumped all over him or started a MP thread titled “did hannes puman add a bolt to book of hate?”

Slim Pickens wrote:

I was looking at Hannes Puman’s instagram and saw that he climbed Book of Hate in November, I think possibly prior to Sasha and Laura. I’m not saying he was responsible for the bolting either, but it seems telling that nobody jumped all over him or started a MP threading titled “did hannes puman add a bolt to book of hate?”

He’s a dude. Not surprising. 

grug g wrote:

Jeeze you are creepy per usual. 

Dude, where did that come from?

I don't follow Sasha DiGulian, haven't seen any of her movies, just know that she's a really good climber.  I looked at her Instagram when this whole controversy started, cool, about what i thought it would be.

What bothers me is that so much of the Sasha DiGulian hate, calling her a sellout, saying that she just wants to be a model, etc etc, comes from people who seem to resent a successfull, sponsored, attractive young woman living her life.  

It's so typical and sexist (that's you grug g) angry male climbers complaning about sucessfull women.

Plus, calling people "creepy" when your name is "grug g" ... now that's creepy.

Tristan Bradford wrote:

In other news I do believe the bolt was chopped already. I heard Randy sent someone with an angle grinder to chop it. Which is funny considering you can get almost all new bolts out with just a wrench.

LAME! That's some weak ass shit. If you wanna show you're better than the person who placed it, you best chop the bolt in a purer style. Using an angle grinder (I expect on rap/hanging) is just descending to the same tactics and mindset, if not exceeding them!

(Are power tools even allowed in yosemite for wall work? or is it just for bolting?)

Redacted Redactberg wrote:

LAME! That's some weak ass shit. If you wanna show you're better than the person who placed it, you best chop the bolt in a purer style. Using an angle grinder (I expect on rap/hanging) is just descending to the same tactics and mindset, if not exceeding them!

(Are power tools even allowed in yosemite for wall work? or is it just for bolting?)

It was a hand powered angle grinder?