Did Someone add a bolt(s) to Book of Hate?

Cole cunninghamwrote:

go do it

This situation arose because someone randomly decided to alter the climb.

It’s not up to just anyone to add or remove bolts as they please.

Any modifications or removal of bolts should be left to the developers of the area and the first ascensionist. That’s the approach the person who added this bolt should have followed.

Everyone complaining about how much difference the bolt makes when there was already a fixed piece in the same spot. You can see the fixed piece in Amity's send video with a pre hung draw at the same height as the new bolt.

I am not necessarily a fan of the added bolt. I'm sure it will get chopped with all of this attention anyways. I really hope it is someone who can do a decent patch job. Badly patched chops are so much uglier than just leaving the bolt.

All the holier than thou armchair crushers in this thread make me laugh.

You don’t have to climb at that level to deeply despise the entitlement attitude that comes along with people who would advocate retrobolting someone else’s FA without their consent.

. . . but climbing is changing.

Climbing is changing? 

Yes, it is, but who cares? Why post about it and sound whiney? Chop the bolt, or shut up.

This is a gold-standard MP post, it has everything. 

Shut the site down: The speed of light has been exceeded, perpetual motion is reality, and we live forever. The work is finished. 

WF WF51wrote:

Yes, it is, but who cares? Why post about it and sound whiney? Chop the bolt, or shut up.

This is a gold-standard MP post, it has everything. 

Shut the site down: The speed of light has been exceeded, perpetual motion is reality, and we live forever. The work is finished. 

The chop the bolt or shut up mentality is part of the problem. It's the other side of the same coin - the unknown climber adding a bolts. Two sides of the the same coin; acting on their own, no community consolation, just a drill and extra time.

One thing I've learned is that when people post on MP that they will chop a bolt, they never ever actually do it. I've seen some comical posts 15 years ago on routes I've climbed saying "The next time I'm down there I'm chopping the bolts!" and 15 years later... the bolts are still there.

I read through this thread and then checked out Randy Leavitt's instagram post about the climb.

Sasha Digulian added this comment:

"Totally agree; Lara and I were surprised to learn they were probably added within the last year. I’d never been on the climb before this season, but apparently they were not there last year."

So, if we take that at face value, neither she nor her team added the bolts.  Whether or not she was honest about what she accomplished, or whether she should have mentioned the bolts in her posts, is kind of a different question. 

I agree with the voices here that say the bolts should be removed and patched.  It's a classic climb that has been ascended safely for decades without bolts.  It's really shocking that somebody would add bolts to the crux.  

Two last points: 

• Sasha Digulian is a badass climber, and it's not her fault that she's also beautiful.  Power to her to make money and build a career and life based on her gifts.  There are many worse things people do to suceed.
• The video of Randy Leavit doing the FA is awesome.  It's so cool to see amazing climbers really struggling to get to the top, body shaking involuntarily, breathing getting out of control.  Nowadays, so much of what is filmed looks so polished and rehearsed.

Alex Rwrote:

Everyone complaining about how much difference the bolt makes when there was already a fixed piece in the same spot. You can see the fixed piece in Amity's send video with a pre hung draw at the same height as the new bolt.

I am not necessarily a fan of the added bolt. I'm sure it will get chopped with all of this attention anyways. I really hope it is someone who can do a decent patch job. Badly patched chops are so much uglier than just leaving the bolt.

All the holier than thou armchair crushers in this thread make me laugh.

Fixed pieces can be removed so the climb can be done in better style and don't typically scar or permanently alter the rock.  Also climbing 5.13 protected by a fixed ballnut feels pretty different than the same above a bolt.  That being said, I agree with your sentiment about bad patch jobs and removing retro bolts in general.

TO CLEAR THE AIR ON SASHA

As someone who was a part of watching Sasha project this climb start to send - I can say with 100% confidence that she did not add that bolt. She just started climbing on Book of Hate this season. 

It's really sad to see people try and discredit her like this. Is it because she is a women? Is it because she has a large Instagram following? Ridiculous. What a petty thread. 

Courtney Hinrichswrote:

TO CLEAR THE AIR ON SASHA

As someone who was a part of watching Sasha project this climb start to send - I can say with 100% confidence that she did not add that bolt. She just started climbing on Book of Hate this season. 

It's really sad to see people try and discredit her like this. Is it because she is a women? Is it because she has a large Instagram following? Ridiculous. What a petty thread. 

I am not accusing her but just to answer your question, people are "discrediting" her because she was the first person to climb it with the new bolt. It has nothing to do with gender or instagram followers.

Any lead with the bolt is doing a different route.  It counts as a top rope, or a lead of an easier variation - "leaflet of mild pique."

The climbing community never fails to disappoint.

tom donnellywrote: Any lead with the bolt is doing a different route.  It counts as a top rope, or a lead of an easier variation - "leaflet of mild pique."

That route would be the Pamphlet of Hate. Cause ya know a pamphlet is a small booklet usually with arguments about a single subject (e.g. a bolt).

The title should read: "Who added a bolt to Book of Hate?"

On Facebook, Sascha has posted an unequivocal denial that she had anything to do with the bolt being added. I think we can all agree that were the bolt not there she would have sent with equal grace. 

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1109001790594508&set=a.260031258824903

Allen Sandersonwrote:

That route would be the Pamphlet of Hate. Cause ya know a pamphlet is a small booklet usually with arguments about a single subject (e.g. a bolt).

Pure gold

Kevin Mokracekwrote:

The climbing community never fails to disappoint.

I go to the crag for many things, including the climbing community. And it is freakin awesome. On the other hand, I go to MP forums because…. Well, as with drugs alcohol and social media, all of which I quit years ago, I never look back and wish I spent more time on MP forums…

Never confuse the MP forum community with the climbing community. 

You’d have to be an absolute idiot to entertain for one second the idea that Sasha DiGiulian would retrobolt a classic trad climb like Book of Hate. It seems to me that anyone pushing this idea is not just doing it because Sasha was recently on the climb. 

SethGwrote:

You’d have to be an absolute idiot to entertain for one second the idea that Sasha DiGiulian would retrobolt a classic trad climb like Book of Hate. It seems to me that anyone pushing this idea is not just doing it because Sasha was recently on the climb. 

You're late to the conversation. Initial title by OP (who still hasn't addressed why they created an account to start this thread) was "did Sasha add..." They changed the title after someone called them out on it.