Trends that have fallen out of style

You are over thinking this shit. Just keep both biners facing the same way, clip so the gates face away from the direction of travel STFU and climb.  if you're super concerned about one piece keeping you alive flip the bolt end biner upside down or put lockers on both of them.

Nick’s just grumpy cuz the ice conditions are shit this weekend.  

Patience, graciousness, courtesy, respectful communication...

Edit: Realized I basically just defined civility.

I am not grumpy, these people are splitting hairs over something that is black and white in the instructions of every quick draw sold these days.  

There are instructions with quick draws sold today???

every piece of climbing gear you buy comes with a pamphlet with lots of little pictures in seven languages... skull and cross bones for the things you are not supposed to use it for... 

"Trends that have fallen out of style"

Boldness.

My quickdraw instructions include an illustration of a rodent. Is that good or bad?

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

every piece of climbing gear you buy comes with a pamphlet with lots of little pictures in seven languages... skull and cross bones for the things you are not supposed to use it for... 

Not supposed to use it for?  You mean to tell me that checking off all of the Special Pirate Achievement Awards is no longer a thing?  Because I got this stack of nearly complete bingo cards, like yay high.

apogeewrote:

“Gerry” lol the mid century was sick 

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-to-oppose-or-not-quickdraw-biners/

At any rate, especially if you're placing trad gear, kicking it with your feet as you climb past it is not a good idea

correct use of the word "backstep"

T Hockingwrote:

This one has the bamboo shaft.

Dachstein mittens, Millar fingerless gloves, still have them also.

That Bluet stove I purchased in 1970 and it still sees action and serves me well. 

Speaking of stoves are the whisperlites still a thing? or has everyone switched to Jet Boils or some other canister stove?

Using the rope and slings for personal anchors.  I literally cannot grasp how or why people keep a "specialized" piece of cord to replace the sling+knots already on your harness.  

Shame to those that use specialized equipment to accomplish what could be done with the rope and knot knowledge. 

i agree about the rope but the way you and i do things isn't the right way. it's just a way. people can do whatever they want, and shaming them makes you sound like a sad angry person an old man yelling at a cloud. it's okay that people do things differently. 

No man there are two ways to do things.  The right way or the wrong way.  We just replace knot skills with sewing skills.  Or better said, the climbing companies definitely enjoy profiting on the lack of actual rope knowledge.

The principals don't change, the execution skills do. 

It's simply a matter of SOP principles.  When we make things or engineer climbing gear we do it in the same way everytime based on the same root factors. How do you avoid accidents or "deviations?" You execute the same principles over and over again.  You understand the variables. 

I understand cleaning anchors in 2024 is very different than 2010. But the principles are the same and if you fully grasp how and why you're doing what you're doing then you can execute the same when that specialized gear isn't available. 

FrankPSwrote:

50 meter ropes?

Ropes over 9.9mm

This is gunna be a bit Australia specific, but "sport climbing" on carrot bolts. These days, if it has a carrot bolt, it's trad, even if the whole route has only bolts for protection.

My 2010 Blue Mountains guidebook has 4 categories "Sport climb", "sport climb on carrots" (hangerless bolts), "mixed climb" (bolts and gear) and "trad climb" (more or less a splitter crack).

These days, its basically 2 categories, anything but a fully equipped sport route on new bolts is a trad climb. Which I guess is technically correct, if you take the literal meaning of traditional?

Sam Mwrote: This is gunna be a bit Australia specific, but "sport climbing" on carrot bolts. These days, if it has a carrot bolt, it's trad, even if the whole route has only bolts for protection.

My 2010 Blue Mountains guidebook has 4 categories "Sport climb", "sport climb on carrots" (hangerless bolts), "mixed climb" (bolts and gear) and "trad climb" (more or less a splitter crack).

These days, its basically 2 categories, anything but a fully equipped sport route on new bolts is a trad climb. Which I guess is technically correct, if you take the literal meaning of traditional?

'Carrot bolts' are one of the 'strangest' bits of protection that I have ever encountered. Fortunately I only had to deal with them on a few occasions, but found that it was very awkward fumbling around with 'hooking' the hangers onto the 'carrots' and even once I did so, never really trusted that they would stay put!!! Basically felt that I was using 'bat holes' for protection. I agree that it is appropriate to consider routes protected exclusively by carrots to be considered in the 'trad' instead of 'sport' category.