Trends that have fallen out of style

SMC rescue-related brake bar rack.

Clip that to yer sport climbing harness!

Doug Hutchinsonwrote:

The Mega is jerky, I don't like it either, the Giga is much better but still needs to be refined.  Stainless steel in all the wear areas means my GigaJul  still looks new six years later. Reversos wear so fast IMO.

I'm surprised that Petzl, BD, DMM haven't come out with their version of similar devices that lock on rappel and when belaying a leader like Juls do. 

 I think the Alpine Up is in this category too, but I've never used one.

T Hocking, that photo brought back memories... Eiger ovals were $2.10 back in 1975-76, if I remember right. Wish I still had my brake bar to hang on the wall...

Still have all my old 70's gear including first generation Chouinard Hexes, Stoppers, Piolet and Alpine hammer.

Remember the old red belay seats AKA butt bags.

When I started climbing in Yosemite, 1974. My new friends removed my brake bar and tossed it in the trash. I recall someone said “these will kill you…” 

I think maybe Jim Madsen was using one… 

One thing I don’t see much anymore- people rapping off sport climbs 

Eric Craig wrote:

Mr. Hocking, that's a nice collection. The ice axe looks like maybe it has a hickory handle? Hickory preceeded the laminated bamboo. No teeth next to the shaft was a lot easier on your Dachstein mittens. 

This one has the bamboo shaft.

Dachstein mittens, Millar fingerless gloves, still have them also.

That Bluet stove I purchased in 1970 and it still sees action and serves me well. 

When I started climbing, we had a pretty rigorous rule that if you fell, you were lowered to the last no-hands rest before continuing.  TR or lead… None of this figuring out moves whilst hanging out on rope.  I’m not really sure when that relaxed, but I still feel like I’m cheating every time I  take mid-crux.

SW Marlattwrote:

When I started climbing, we had a pretty rigorous rule that if you fell, you were lowered to the last no-hands rest before continuing.  TR or lead… None of this figuring out moves whilst hanging out on rope.  I’m not really sure when that relaxed, but I still feel like I’m cheating every time I  take mid-crux.

Frankenjura and SE France, mid 1970s. Or, Ray Jardine and Tony Yaniro. Damn snot-nosed kids with no respect for tradition!!!! :-(

When I first started climbing there was a no hang dogging rule but that changed when I started hanging out with better climbers.

SW Marlattwrote:

When I started climbing, we had a pretty rigorous rule that if you fell, you were lowered to the last no-hands rest before continuing.  TR or lead… None of this figuring out moves whilst hanging out on rope.  I’m not really sure when that relaxed, but I still feel like I’m cheating every time I  take mid-crux.

 I climbed with a guy who still likes to lower to the ground and pull the rope if he falls. Don't hang out and scope the holds. Got pissed at me after he couldn't finish the climb because I climbed to his High Point on top rope. And then finished the route and got his gear back.

Frank Steinwrote:

Damn snot-nosed kids with no respect for tradition!!!! :-(

Europeans?

Project draws on 5.13 and up

Tricams, especially the big ones. Why carry a #4!?

Hexes and big bros

Pat Marrinanwrote:

Tricams, especially the big ones. Why carry a #4!?

#5 is the lightest pro of that size I’ve found. #4 weighs more as it is solid so don’t use.

How about quickdraws with the biners reversed instead of oriented with the gates on the same side? Anyone still use those? Do they have a use in unusual bolting situations? Or is it just my mania that doesn't like them.

 Anyone still use those? 

Daniel Joderwrote:

How about quickdraws with the biners reversed instead of oriented with the gates on the same side? Anyone still use those? Do they have a use in unusual bolting situations? Or is it just my mania that doesn't like them.

I started using my ice climbing draws with the biners reversed last season. In ice climbing it makes sense.You're always placing just off your midline to the left or the right and the rope side biner faces to that side of your midline, but clipping with the gear side biner toward your midline is easier and more stable (especially with gloves on, while trying to frontpoint, and usually in a hurry). I have to give credit for this idea to my buddy James Donigan. I had never considered it until he pointed out that having them reversed might be easier. 

My contribution to this thread... board lasted shoes. To my knowledge there's only one company making them anymore and I bet they discontinue them soon. I still favor them for really long routes.

bad idea especially ice climbing were every screw is like a bolt hanger. withe the bolt end biner pointing the wrong direction it becomes pretty easy to accidently kick the draw on the way by and then watch it unclip from the ice screw... 

My contribution to this thread... board lasted shoes. To my knowledge there's only one company making them anymore

Who is that, if I may ask?