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Trends that have fallen out of style

Original Post
georocks · · Evanston WY · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 115

Just a curious thought as I'm having some mid day boredom: what trends/styles/equipment would you all say have fallen out of climbing popularity?

For example, I am a novice ice climber with only a few seasons, but I feel like I never see anybody use screamers on screws anymore. Mind you im not climbing hard ice. Is this because the mantra is to just not fall anyways? Years ago I remember being told that the first 3 or 4 screws should all have a screamer plus any suspect ones or stubbies. Again I'm pretty new to ice so this might be only my observation.

For equipment, I have novice rock climbing friends who are very hesitant to trust 2 opposed draws for top roping on equal bolts despite being the standard for decades , as the quad has gotten weirdly popular and some newbies think it is the end all.

Another I can think of is rapping sport routes. I think now the accepted and safe ethic is to be lowered and just donate to the parties who replace and install hardware. I recall being super chewed out about this 10 years ago, even in popular areas with hardware designed for lowering with very active bolting organizations such as BARF in the Lander area. Funny thing is I'm pretty certain that those throwing a fit were not even from there.

Any you all can think of to share? 

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,201

Rapping with an ATC is sooooo 2000-late. Biner blocks are the new hotness.

georocks · · Evanston WY · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 115
Big Redwrote:

Rapping with an ATC is sooooo 2000-late. Biner blocks are the new hotness.

Let's revive the body rapell. Dolphersitz? I probably didn't spell that right.

Logan Peterson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 382

Of all the practices I could identify that are falling out of favor in climbing, self-soothing seems most prominent to me. I'll give it 10 to 20 years before we are completely incapable of having a thought or feeling at the crag without giving it loud expression.

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 4,402

Lycra 

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10
georockswrote:

Let's revive the body rapell. Dolphersitz? I probably didn't spell that right.

Close--Dulfersitz-- named after Hans Dulfer.

Jared E · · CO-based healthcare traveler · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 417

Actually knowing why you’re doing what you’re doing instead of just memorizing steps. See: your example about quads 

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Adding someone’ else’s routes to MP or any other board, public or private.

Telling others about a new crag a friend showed you without their explicit approval. 

Joshua Singer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 5
Cherokee Nuneswrote:

Adding someone’ else’s routes to MP or any other board, public or private.

Telling others about a new crag a friend showed you without their explicit approval. 

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 11,358
Cherokee Nuneswrote:

Adding someone’ else’s routes to MP or any other board, public or private.

The best and happens in the Northeast all the time!  Even better when they don’t send and still add it!  How about giving it a tick and four stars and saying they need to come back to finish!!!

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Cherokee Nuneswrote:

Adding someone’ else’s routes to MP or any other board, public or private. 

I am all for gatekeeping, but in the internet age this is kind of a silly position. For example, in the days of paper guidebooks, would you have insisted that the author develop every single route published in the book?  

If the area is on MP, add every route that you have intimate knowledge of. If the area is not on MP, keep it off. 

John R · · Flatlands · Joined May 2019 · Points: 6
Eric Craig wrote:

Is this what you are referring to?

I was going to post that! 

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Hard to imagine anyone who started climbing in the last ten years owning even half that many oval ‘biners.

georocks · · Evanston WY · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 115

maybe this is opposite of my question as these have gotten more popular: gear so specialized that newcomers are afraid to use anything else. 

Anti cross loading lockers are great, but you won't explode if you belay without one.

New personal anchors keeping people from learning/trusting how to clove hitch? (I've taken people on their first multi and they were very untrusting of the clove, and would also still sling themselves into a cam or the anchor because it looked safer to them instead of the simplicity of a clove). 

Not trying to gatekeep, I have definitely been that newcomer and have done just about every gumby move under the sun 

John Thomson · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

Belaying up the second. Friends don’t let friends belay.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Anyone still rap with a figure 8? I used to love how easy they were to set up—and lock off if you needed to fuss with tangled ropes as you went down. No third hand, of course.

Edit to add: painter’s pants, rugby shirts, chalk bags sewn from a cut up towel, bandana head caps (no helmet), and might I dare say Hexes???

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

50 meter ropes?

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10
Eric Craig wrote:

I just bought a rope. A 40m x 10.5mm. It is longer than any climb at Castle Rock State Park. And fat enough for comfortable hip belay use. It will also be long enough to use at Discovery Wall when it gets cool enough to climb there.

40 even 30m, also somewhat more 'beefy' ropes are making a comeback--primarily as gym ropes but also, as you mentioned, for shorter outdoor crags as well ( such as are common around here in southern New England).
Haven't seen a resurgence of body rappels and hip belays yet, though!!!!

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

Belaying with anything other than a GriGri seems to have fallen out of style with the "Gym to Crag" crowd.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

You originally mentioned ice climbing tethers and leashless tools have pretty much replaced wrist leashes...

And wrist leashes also seem to have fallen out of favor for regular ice axes. Everyone I see seems to have them tethered to their pack or harness.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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