New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #29

GabeOwrote:

Thanks for the heads up.  Looks cool!  Might pick that up whenever my Grigri wears out.

Speaking of which... anyone here use doubles technique much?  I think RGold does?  I like doubles in the Gunks.  I have been using a TRE, but once mine wears out, I'll be in the market for a new device good for belaying (and rapping) two ropes.

GO

Gabe

Look up the Edelrid's Giga Jul. You can use single or double ropes with it. It has 2 different modes. You can watch video reviews on Youtube.

1. Use as a normal belay/rappel device

2. Assisted breaking device for lead belaying

It is about $60 and on sale around $47. It is made of aluminum and also SS. Aluminum for light weight and SS for long term use. One of the videos I watched the guide stated that after a year of use, it has scratches but the SS parts look like new. He retired his Black Diamond ATC.

It also works like a ATC guide, so you can belay one or two climbers coming up to you.

I just recently purchased the Giga Jul myself. I also have the original Gri Gri and latest Gri Gri (I believe they call it the Gri Gri plus). It has dual modes, one for TR and the other for leading. I use this for sport climbing my wife.

John

GabeOwrote:

 Might pick that up whenever my Grigri wears out.

I'm still using my original GriGri1 for the gym.  It must be 30 years old.  Still seems to work fine. 

GabeOwrote:

My daughter loves the Tintin books. We have read them all, and are starting to reread them. Perhaps our favorite is the one with the exploding mushrooms. Maybe some of you have read it before?  

This one contains the usual excitement, hilarity, intrigue, plus also a touch of slightly spooky sci-fi.

Anyway, this last Sunday I just started working on my first 5.13 route, called Journey to a Mushroom Planet, and every time I think about the name of the route it makes me think of this book.  

The route is gear protected, and there is a good nut in a roof which the rope lifted out when my partner fell on the piece after it. For my sake he went back to that position in the roof and tried to replace the nut, but couldn't get it to stick. So he placed a small cam instead. When I got to that point I was gassed, so I rested on the cam.  I thought some of you might be amused to see what happened next.  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xNTMD9Ng17yw2MiV7

The volume is low, so if you can't hear it, it goes something like this:

G: "Take there. I'm pretty beat." 

D:  "How's that cam?"

G:  Looks up... "Ouch!" 

D: "Oh f*ck!"

G:  In answer to his question: "That good!  Hahaha!" 

GO

Gabe, is that you?  Just WOW.  That is spectacular.  Best of luck on that 5.13... it looks like a beautiful rock and beautiful route and graceful strong climbing.  Really something to watch... 

You have kept your light under a bushel.   So post more videos.   

Love the mushroom, reminds me of Little Mario Brothers.  

---

Guy, thanks for the story.  I stared at that broken down building and thought, this CAN'T be Willy's!  History everywhere.  I cannot imagine taking LSD out there... it's already so psychedelic, and at least as a first timer, easy to get a little anxious.  You guys!    

The first time we went out to the Astro Domes (1977 or so), we scrambled out past Barker Dam -- not the easiest approach. On the way back, we decided to head down a wash further East. This lead us eventually to Uncle Willies, and our discovery of a much easier (now standard) approach into the Southern Wonderland. Even by the mid 1980s, few people actually hiked out into (or climbed in) the Southern Wonderland. 

As Guy relates, there was a lot of old "stuff" to be found in the then "remote" parts of the Park. The old Stamp Mill -- a short hike East of Uncle Willies -- had a very cool, two story, house/cabin, full of old magazines and detritus from the 1930/40s. Most of these items throughout the Park were "cleaned up" before they became officially "historic" and then had to be preserved. The clean up included the complete removal of the house/cabin.

the lake this evening.. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

the lake this evening.. 

I cooked a pasta dinner for 250+ runners for the local half marathon last Saturday at the "small, local, first in the nation rope tow ski area..."

When I finally got to go outside,  I caught the last few moments of beautiful sunset...

ed "beauty is where you find it..." e

ps.  Nick, happy b-day, mine was back in late May...

Ken Tubbswrote:

It looks great for single pitch but unfortunately Petzl has not certified it for top belaying. I'm looking forward to reports from people who try it anyway. After all, I don't think Petzl certified the GriGri for top belaying at first.

Hi Ken. Petzl says it is for belaying both "lead and toprope climbers" and also for rappelling a single line.

They've also revised their guidelines for using a Grigri, Grigri +, or NEOX for a re-directed or direct belay of the follower, giving the pros and cons, and taking out the language they used previously about a direct belay mode being "not the ideal method."

Bob Gaineswrote:

Hi Ken. Petzl says it is for belaying both "lead and toprope climbers" and also for rappelling a single line.

They've also revised their guidelines for using a Grigri, Grigri +, or NEOX for a re-directed or direct belay of the follower, giving the pros and cons, and taking out the language they used previously about a direct belay mode being "not the ideal method."

I stand corrected! Thanks Bob!

GabeOwrote:

My daughter loves the Tintin books. We have read them all, and are starting to reread them. Perhaps our favorite is the one with the exploding mushrooms. Maybe some of you have read it before?  

This one contains the usual excitement, hilarity, intrigue, plus also a touch of slightly spooky sci-fi.

Anyway, this last Sunday I just started working on my first 5.13 route, called Journey to a Mushroom Planet, and every time I think about the name of the route it makes me think of this book.  

The route is gear protected, and there is a good nut in a roof which the rope lifted out when my partner fell on the piece after it. For my sake he went back to that position in the roof and tried to replace the nut, but couldn't get it to stick. So he placed a small cam instead. When I got to that point I was gassed, so I rested on the cam.  I thought some of you might be amused to see what happened next.  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xNTMD9Ng17yw2MiV7

The volume is low, so if you can't hear it, it goes something like this:

G: "Take there. I'm pretty beat." 

D:  "How's that cam?"

G:  Looks up... "Ouch!" 

D: "Oh f*ck!"

G:  In answer to his question: "That good!  Hahaha!" 

GO

Tintin was definitely part of my childhood.

5.13, eh? I’ve got a bunch of catching up to do, …   

Colden Darkwrote:

If it makes you feel any better, Carl, it’s -3 C here this morning. And snowing. In June.

Chukchi summertime at the beach. There’s open water out there where the clouds get dark. Almost paddling season.

We’re getting close to zero in the morning. But zero Celsius you’re talking F aren’t you? Anyway, not going anywhere now, the wife has Covid so I’ll probably get it too. 

GabeOwrote:

My daughter loves the Tintin books. We have read them all, and are starting to reread them. Perhaps our favorite is the one with the exploding mushrooms. Maybe some of you have read it before?  

This one contains the usual excitement, hilarity, intrigue, plus also a touch of slightly spooky sci-fi.

Anyway, this last Sunday I just started working on my first 5.13 route, called Journey to a Mushroom Planet, and every time I think about the name of the route it makes me think of this book.  

The route is gear protected, and there is a good nut in a roof which the rope lifted out when my partner fell on the piece after it. For my sake he went back to that position in the roof and tried to replace the nut, but couldn't get it to stick. So he placed a small cam instead. When I got to that point I was gassed, so I rested on the cam.  I thought some of you might be amused to see what happened next.  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xNTMD9Ng17yw2MiV7

The volume is low, so if you can't hear it, it goes something like this:

G: "Take there. I'm pretty beat." 

D:  "How's that cam?"

G:  Looks up... "Ouch!" 

D: "Oh f*ck!"

G:  In answer to his question: "That good!  Hahaha!" 

GO

My 12 year old daughter and I read ALL the Tin Tin books last year.  My wife was getting rid of them from the school library because they are definitely not PC in today’s world.

Regarding Journey to a Mushroom planet, it seems really hard at first, but there are a lot of tricks that make it not bad for 13a

GabeOwrote:

Thanks for the heads up.  Looks cool!  Might pick that up whenever my Grigri wears out.

Speaking of which... anyone here use doubles technique much?  I think RGold does?  I like doubles in the Gunks.  I have been using a TRE, but once mine wears out, I'll be in the market for a new device good for belaying (and rapping) two ropes.

GO

Edelrid Giga Jul. Twin ropes. Two modes: assisted braking (unique for twin ropes) and manual as ATC. Additionally, can be used in Guide mode and abseil. Light and well engineered. I use it on Scottish trad climbs with twin ropes. So far only in manual mode. I particularly like the assisted braking feature as it functions as a rope capture device like the Grigri. Manual mode is recommended for abseil and works well. 

GabeOwrote:

Speaking of which... anyone here use doubles technique much?  I think RGold does?  I like doubles in the Gunks.  I have been using a TRE, but once mine wears out, I'll be in the market for a new device good for belaying (and rapping) two ropes.

GO

I've been using 8.5mm half ropes almost exclusively for around 30 years.  I think the CT Alpine Up is the best device for half half-rope technique.  It was definitely better than the early Juls, but I haven't tried the latest iteration everyone seems to be recommending.  The latest Juls still have the same handling drawback as the earlier Juls, which is to pump out slack fast, the brake hand has to be tied up pulling on a thumb loop and so has to be stationary.  The UP handles like an ordinary ATC/Reverso plate.

Colin Rowewrote:

Edelrid Giga Jul.  Manual mode is recommended for abseil and works well.

But IMO the best thing about the Gigajul is using it in assisted braking for rappels. since I never have used a third hand, I like having that as a safety feature in my old age! I usually switch to manual mode for short, easy raps, esp low angle raps. I use my grigri for belaying because I like the feed better with single ropes, but switch to gigajul to rap. 

Old lady Hwrote:

Guessing that cam wasn't what it could be?    That route looks hard....and awkward....

And fun!

H.

Yeah, as RGold has said many times over the years, small cams have very little range, so in cracks with variable size, it doesn't take much for them to rip.  There was a good threaded sling not far below, so just a fun little ride.  As for hard, awkward, and fun... very much so!  And it is looking like it may use a bit more actual crack technique than its neighbor, White Zombie, my project of last year.  WZ (at least for me) seemed mostly about very technical footwork, lots of arm- and knee-bars, massive core strength, and a few technical jams.  My strongest suit is crack technique, so I'm hoping to make the most of it on this route.

Thanks, all, for the suggestions to look into the Giga Jul and Alpine Up.  I'll check them out next time I get the chance.

Lori Milas wrote:

Gabe, is that you?  Just WOW.  That is spectacular.  Best of luck on that 5.13... it looks like a beautiful rock and beautiful route and graceful strong climbing.  Really something to watch...  

That's me, yes.  It is a beautiful route, yeah, and thanks for the good wishes.  No idea if it will ever go for me, but it is a lot of fun trying.  As for how I look on it, graceful is not the word that comes to mind!  I'd say I look like a sloth with Parkinsons, but I know I'll improve as I get things worked out.  It's easy to look graceful executing movements well below your limit, but this level is new to me, so first I have to figure out beta that works for me, and then it'll take time for my body to work out how to execute efficiently.

Li Hu: I've not sent yet, and may never do.  So you've plenty of time to catch up.  :)

Carl:  Sorry to hear about the Covid.  Hope your wife has a mild case and feels better soon, and hope it doesn't hit you hard either.  Regarding Colden's -3F - keep in mind, it's nearly mid-summer in our hemisphere!  And speaking of weather, I hope the weather turns out to be better than the cold rain predicted for your upcoming trip.  

Ward:  Yes, Tintin is very much not PC.  Because I'm reading to my daughter, I have the chance to discuss a lot of the racist, sexist, and classist elements in the stories.  I think exposure to such things is more of a good thing than a bad, so long as there's the opportunity to put them in context.  Though I know that for many parents, it's just better to keep things positive, and avoid those subjects altogether.  I think it depends on the kid, too.  Regarding Mushroom Planet, if you have any beta to share, I'm all ears.  I'm certainly working out a few tricks, but I'm a neophyte at the grade, so it may take me longer to work things out.  Fortunately the guy I'm working it with (also a dad getting back into climbing) used to climb up to 5.14, so that's really helpful for speeding up the learning curve.

GO

Todd Berlier wrote:

here's the video of the climb I posted the pic of last week.

Nice.  Spooky.  Looks like a lot of big rocks in the landing zone.

GO

Gabe O wrote:  That's me, yes.  It is a beautiful route, yeah, and thanks for the good wishes.  No idea if it will ever go for me, but it is a lot of fun trying.  As for how I look on it, graceful is not the word that comes to mind!  I'd say I look like a sloth with Parkinsons, but I know I'll improve as I get things worked out.  It's easy to look graceful executing movements well below your limit, but this level is new to me, so first I have to figure out beta that works for me, and then it'll take time for my body to work out how to execute efficiently.

I’m dwelling on the whole concept of 5.13, or even 5.12… what kind of mutant does this?  I’ve looked closely at three 5.13 routes we have here (Cutting Edge, Seizure and The New Deal), and just shrug. How can that possibly happen?  It’s just such a blessing to be that strong and technical… and “at a certain age”.  At ANY age.  

“Sloth With Parkinsons” sounds like a great route name.  The one downside of climbing for me is how disappointing it looks on video. Even when I feel like I have a route wired and I’m climbing efficiently that is not what I see on replay.     I am shaky, slow and… Sloth like. No one wants to see that! 

As much as I cringe sometimes with my own climbing performance, I do just feel joyful for the group of us here, with virtually everyone being outliers the older we get.  

I love pictures and the great memories associated. A year ago Bob offered to take me to a remaining Houser route, bottle in front of me. Up until then, it was a little too far and a little too hard and probably not worth the trip.  That day I had enough energy for one lap on that wall. I think today I could climb there all day.  It has become one of my favorite places to just sit and watch the world.  

I was so stoked to be there and climbing that route.  What else can I say but thank you.  I sent a picture off to Dave and he remembered the route well.

This (climbing outdoors) is such an amazing trip – – – so unexpected at this age and for a non-athlete. And I eventually got to meet Dave!
—-

on the downside: after six months of upper respiratory, chronic coughing and throat clearing and something like asthma I finally took my first doctors advice, and did a home inspection for mold.  I received the results yesterday – – my home is in the 90th to 100 percentile of all homes for 30 some varieties of mold, many of themtoxic.  I’m going to have a consultation with the mold people to figure out what’s next. I am really just shocked because this is the desert currently at 100° and 18% humidity. I moved here for hot dry, where the hell is the mold?

Lori Milaswrote:

I’m dwelling on the whole concept of 5.13, or even 5.12… what kind of mutant does this?  I’ve looked closely at three 5.13 routes we have here (Cutting Edge, Seizure and The New Deal), and just shrug. How can that possibly happen?  It’s just such a blessing to be that strong and technical… and “at a certain age”.  At ANY age.  

“Sloth With Parkinsons” sounds like a great route name.  The one downside of climbing for me is how disappointing it looks on video. Even when I feel like I have a route wired and I’m climbing efficiently that is not what I see on replay.     I am shaky, slow and… Sloth like. No one wants to see that! 

As much as I cringe sometimes with my own climbing performance, I do just feel joyful for the group of us here, with virtually everyone being outliers the older we get.  

I couldn't find anything called "The New Deal" in J Tree, but as for the other two, I doubt I could get off the ground on them, if it makes you feel any better.  

As for video, unlike you, I absolutely expect to look like complete $h!t on video.  Only reason I take video of myself is to help myself improve.  I find it super-helpful to separate the wheat from the chaff - watch what worked and what didn't, and try to do better next time.  Eventually, yes, I do sometimes wind up with some footage where I look like I know what I'm doing, but that is purely accidental, and just comes from doing every possible mistake first.  

Speaking of mistakes and failure, at the gym last night I sent a new project, and then went back and tried to repeat the hard boulder problem I uploaded a video of last week.  Tried a number of times, and couldn't hit the crux move, much less finish the thin sequence at the top.  Not sure what my point is, except to say that I suck as much as the next person.

Good luck dealing with mold.  That can be a total nightmare.  I know someone who had to leave their house because they just couldn't get the mold under control.

GO

GabeOwrote:

I couldn't find anything called "The New Deal" in J Tree, but as for the other two, I doubt I could get off the ground on them, if it makes you feel any better.  

As for video, unlike you, I absolutely expect to look like complete $h!t on video.  Only reason I take video of myself is to help myself improve.  I find it super-helpful to separate the wheat from the chaff - watch what worked and what didn't, and try to do better next time.  Eventually, yes, I do sometimes wind up with some footage where I look like I know what I'm doing, but that is purely accidental, and just comes from doing every possible mistake first.  

Speaking of mistakes and failure, at the gym last night I sent a new project, and then went back and tried to repeat the hard boulder problem I uploaded a video of last week.  Tried a number of times, and couldn't hit the crux move, much less finish the thin sequence at the top.  Not sure what my point is, except to say that I suck as much as the next person.

Good luck dealing with mold.  That can be a total nightmare.  I know someone who had to leave their house because they just couldn't get the mold under control.

GO

I think it is just "New Deal"  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105805988/new-deal

One of the nice things about climbing with Bob is that I get the tour, sometimes, and his description of the event.  Bob belayed Scott Cosgrove on this route on a Superbowl Sunday.  When we walked over to look at it, I just stood and stared at the 'route' totally in awe, like... what route?  where?  That wall looks totally blank to me, and if I recall, a bit overhung. 

It's amazing to me that this FA could have happened, in the quiet of those rocks, with no CNN around, no Olympic coverage... yet a true triumph and worthy of so much more.  

I know you climbers are humble and bashful when you're 'really' good... but I can still be a huge fan.  Keep sharing and posting! 

Lori said…. “I know you climbers are humble and bashful when you're 'really' good... but I can still be a huge fan.  Keep sharing and posting!”

Well it seems like, according to some climbers, that we nothing but- and I quote- “chest thumping, ego maniacs…” 

Good luck with your Mold issue… 

Later