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What Does Your Woody Look Like??? v3.0
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43 holds made, and 78 to go!  |
drewpwrote: I'm not an engineer but worked as a framer for many years. Looking at your pictures you should be able to do this no problem since the attachment is near a big 2-ply girder truss and near the bearing point of each perpendicular individual truss. Roof trusses are generally not designed to have a heavy load attached to the 2x4 bottom chord of truss (it is more of a tension member). Because the attachment is near where the trusses are bearing you should be fine. If your climbing wall has 2x studs 24" O.C. I'd run them thru the ceiling next to and a couple of inches past the top of each truss and use a A35 clip to attach it to the top of each truss. If you want to go 16" OC with your wall framing (which I'd recommend) I would hang 4x4 block between the trusses using THA413 hangers wrapped over the top of trusses and lag bolt (use plenty of lags or even thru bolts) the ledger through the ceiling into the 4x4s. Connect the wall framing to the ledger with A35s. I would not lag/screw the ledger only into the trusses as they are only 1.5 inches wide. The screws might split the wood of the truss if they are in a row. Run your vertical 2x framing all the way to the ground or to a ledger on the existing wall and frame the toe kick in after so the weight of the wall is mainly sitting on the ground. |
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Trusses are not specifically designed for lateral loads. You'll need to calculate lateral live (you bouncing on the wall) and dead loads (the structure). $.02. |
Muscratwrote: Yes it seems like the two views I have gotten are either (1) "go for it" or (2) "you'll die". I don't totally understand the very detailed post above but maybe i will do that |
 Pretty well filled in the wall, and got the hangboard up. I may build a couple more small volumes to put up and swap in/out, and will keep filling in the blank spaces slowly, but I'm pretty happy with the variety of holds and layout so far. I am working on a crack machine that will run up the near side of the wall. I'll trim off the excess on the wall panels when I'm ready to hang the crack machine. And, I still need to install the overhead lights and a small wall heater, too, but those should be pretty quick jobs. |
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A lot of people only use 3/4" plywood, which measures less. Some brands of wood screws such as GRK have a smooth section that is almost this long. When I had plywood that was only 5 plies plus veneer (often cabinet ply), I would get a lot of pulled screws due to lack of threads engaging. You already built your wall so you can't change anything, but I highly recommend doubling up 1/2" ply with as many plies as possible. Bonus points if there is any info about the amount of voids in the plies and you can select low void. 1" usually solves the problems with the <=2" screws and having enough threads engage, but if you shop around you can find Torx bit screws that have less smooth than GRK and engage better. I refuse to use t-nuts ever again and have no issues with either just screws or Escape Lonestars plus a set screw. It is stupidly easy to countersink holds that don't have set screws and/or add a second set screw in for good measure. As for your loose t-nuts what I would do is remove all your holds, take out the t-nuts, burn your plywood, get new plywood, use screws and/or Lonestars, and throw your t-nuts into a body of water. |
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I'm hoping to do some customer research for a climbing holds startup/school project of mine; home wall owners of MP, pls message me if you'd be interested in answering some questions in a survey/interview. |
 Nearing completion. Another 40 or so holds to still add. I’m very excited to add 30 from Woodcrag, a small shaper out of Canada with very unique beautiful wooden shapes. The board is both a Mini Moonboard and spray wall with a 9” extension to fit in my 8’ ceiling. So far I’m really enjoying having both. You can’t beat the MB community and all the different movement id never think up on my own, but also love expanding on those ideas and setting new problems or mini replicas. The top row(s) still need love as not I want to some more interesting holds/orientations, as well as more undercuts, side pulls, and vertical pinches. Will post a finished product! Mainly hoping to inspire others to do the same because I think it offers the best of both worlds if you’re like me and have limited space but want maximum training value. |
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Looks sick! You should definitely post pics of those Woodcrag holds here when you get them; they sound dreamy |
Michael Azevedowrote: I have two sets from woodcrag and they’re of excellent quality! |
 Psyched to hear positive feedback about the WC holds. They arrive this week. I’ll report back soon! |
 Wanted to post a finished product. The wood crag holds are great, though four or five I found to not be a great fit for the board angle and style. That being said, many have a lot of personality and are a great value imo. Escape inductor feet are also incredible in terms of training value. Beast maker grips are still the most pleasurable to use while being hard! I did remove the small pinch below the center small crimp as I found it interfered. Otherwise the mini problems climb well, with the only noticeable difficulties being certain heel hooks are trickier, as well as spotting certain feet, but hasn’t prevented me yet from doing anything. A small price to pay for the overall value.
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At what point will this become its own forum topic? |
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97 holds made. Just 24 to go!  |
Victor Creazziwrote: Beast! |
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Looks dope! Love your metal frame. Did you fabricate it? |
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Yes, I'm marketing the steel parts. Website coming soon. |
Michael Azevedowrote: How do you find those beastmaker resin footholds? I find their wood footholds great, but really only usable as a pushing foot. Can you toe in on the resin ones? |
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Their resin holds suckkkkkk. The most positive are fucking huge. The sloping ones literally ripped the entire edge off a new pair of Scarpa Instinct S. I sent it in for resole and then was breaking in another pair of shoes and the same shit happened. They're so coarse they lock the rubber in place and torque it. I find their normal wood feet quite meh. They're really only usable from certain angles and large targets. Once you learn to just gorilla smash them straight on they're not really that difficult. I made my own wood jibs by just taking a 1/2" piece of hardwood and cutting it into 1.5" strips. I rounded the lip on the front and then used an angle grinder to create an arc side to side like the Core jibs. Cheap and the best board feet I've had. Annex holds made me a similar set. |
 Fairly recent. 12x12, 41.5 degrees, still a ton of holds I have on order or in bins. I want to spray out the foot grid more. Even tho it looks like it it's NOT tied into the rafters- there are 2 16' overlapped 2x12s that tie into a few 4x4 vertical supports that are joined or reinforced wall studs and attached to the ground. The best thing I ever did was use 1" ply on this build. |
