What Does Your Woody Look Like??? v3.0

John Clarkwrote:

Teddy K. I have to ask. How often do you smack your hand on the ceiling going for a finish?

Great question. Not very often. I was concerned about that too, but it hasn't really happened yet. Putting it up flush with the ceiling like this allows for a 20 degree angle which is great. Can lower to steeper but right now 20 is a great mix of problems, especially on the home wall version.

Have a little more to do to wrap up the new home wall, but it's coming along pretty well. 

Pieced together from our old home wall panels, t-nutted panels I found on craigslist from another homewall, and panels I got from a church day-care wall, so it's far from perfectly fit together.  Pads are also from the church wall, plus crash pads and an old mattress for now.  I don't really want to spend big $$ for thicker gym type pads right now but maybe in the future.  

Total dimensions are 16' long, and about 11.5' from kicker to top, and ~45 degrees overhanging.  

Ignore the extra long panel on the near-top, my battery died for my saw before I could trim it off.  

I'll be paneling the far wall (maybe doing plexiglass over the window); building/buying some volumes to off-set the steepness; building a new crack trainer; putting up a hang board;  putting a few hangers on the wall so my son can practice clipping and anchor building/breakdown; putting up a bunch more holds that I'm cleaning up from the church wall; and need to hang overhead lights; then it will be all done.  At my current rate of knocking out projects on my list, I'll have this wrapped up by spring of '25.    

Patchwork vibe is super cool actually

Finished working on this for now, but might add another 4’ on to the right side eventually. In hindsight, maybe I should have built a shorter kicker to allow for a slightly longer/taller wall. But overall, I’m happy to have some room down there.

The fin on the left was an afterthought that went up a week or two after the initial install. It’s fine- honestly a pretty mediocre feature alone, but putting the volume on there definitely adds. I do wish I had planned it out beforehand and taken the time to stain and poly everything to match, but the weather had gone to shit by then. Currently, the fin and kicker aren’t sealed, while the main wall has 2 coats of polyurethane over the stain. We’ll see how well it holds up out in the garage. Luckily, there’s not much humidity where I am, but we’ll see.

Put this together last spring on the deck. A 50 degree 8'x8' board that climbs way different from a moon or kilter. Tension on bad feet and low percentage moves. 

Not “new”, but full board reset basically finished on this thing. 

John Clarkwrote:

Not “new”, but full board reset basically finished on this thing. 

Nice! That wooden hold in the middle, the oval with the ridge- looks excellent 

Lincoln Mahanwrote:

Nice! That wooden hold in the middle, the oval with the ridge- looks excellent 

I love it. Shockingly cheap for a commercial wood hold. Beastmaker bubble rail i think. Would be brutal past 30°

Quan Nhamwrote:

Put this together last spring on the deck. A 50 degree 8'x8' board that climbs way different from a moon or kilter. Tension on bad feet and low percentage moves. 

Have you found that 8x8 is worth it? Not a lot of SA...

Seth Bleazardwrote:

Have you found that 8x8 is worth it? Not a lot of SA...

8x8 is more then enough to get some hard moves in and solid training, my board is a little bigger then this one but not by much and its been far better for me then a moon board, tension, etc as i can set it to be specific to what i want.. 

Aidan's board in this video actually looks the same or smaller size then 8x8:

https://youtu.be/WIyhDBFX0Hc?si=obFUoH5E6_B9AghX

In general I think Americans are a little to obsessed with how big the wall is instead of how specific the wall is for what you need (and really good wooden holds..)

cheers...!

Seth Bleazardwrote:

Have you found that 8x8 is worth it? Not a lot of SA...

Yep! I think the steep angle pays dividends on a small surface area. I primarily do bouldering, and the shorter punchier moves at a steep angle mimics my goals outdoors, which is mainly tough overhanging boulders. The problems on the board usually range from 3-5 hard moves, with the longest being 6 moves. I've managed to create a library of 50+ problems on a relatively small board, and the cost of materials was low and the build was fairly quick. Toronto winters are nasty so the board stays tarped up until the spring, where I put maybe 2 sessions on it a week. It's been a hoot with the local climbing community.

John Clarkwrote:

Not “new”, but full board reset basically finished on this thing. 

What's the height of your ceiling?

divnamitewrote:

What's the height of your ceiling?

8’8” give or take. 10x8 wall at 29.5°

My Mini Moonboard is filling in.

Not the best pic but you get the idea. Here's Nick putting up his latest diabolical double digit plastic creation that I'll never be able to send:P

Question for the engineers / construction folks: Moved into a new house and would like to resurrect my home wall (roughly moon board dimensions). Unfortunately garage ceiling roof is built from pre-fab trusses, which I have been told are not great at supporting additional weight. There is also a junction where the truss angle switches 90 degrees very near where I would want to attach the header of the wall to the ceiling (pictures attached). Anyone have any advice? I am worried by roof will collapse.

Some people have some really solid freestanding board designs, might be worth checking into those- maybe taking a hybrid approach, or just going that route. Not an engineer, just a construction guy here, but I think that’s what I’d do if I were worried about the roof 

Can you shift your wall or make it steeper to utilize the beam that is forward of the line drawn for the wall?  It appears that it is load bearing and would be adequate for the additional load of a climbing wall.  

Is that an abandoned roof inside of an attic? The smaller trusses appear to be well attached to the large truss that I would guess replaced a bearing wall. My guess is that you would be fine, but an inspection of the structure by a professional might be in order. Sometimes flaky things are done in remodels and additions which this appears to be. If I'm correct about what is going on in that structure, those smaller trusses were designed to carry roof loads which they are no longer carrying so they should be fine, especially since you want to attach so close to their termination.

Victor Creazziwrote:

Is that an abandoned roof inside of an attic? The smaller trusses appear to be well attached to the large truss that I would guess replaced a bearing wall. My guess is that you would be fine, but an inspection of the structure by a professional might be in order. Sometimes flaky things are done in remodels and additions which this appears to be. If I'm correct about what is going on in that structure, those smaller trusses were designed to carry roof loads which they are no longer carrying so they should be fine, especially since you want to attach so close to their termination.

I don't think so, but who knows! I agree using that probably could be an option. But yea I agree it is worth spending time thinking about.... Thanks!