What Does Your Woody Look Like??? v3.0

Chris Hatzaiwrote:

Some hindsight things i would change are reinforcing the top of the board by doubling up my 2x6's on the sides (there is a slight flex to the wood going for the top holds). And if i had the space making it adjustable or just pitching it at 40 degrees in a fixed position. I went 33-34 degrees and after now adjusting to the steep style, i wish it was steeper. The 30 degree range though allows you to still use really bad grips you wouldnt be able to hold on a 40 degree board. Gl!

Gotcha. Thanks for the pics, they’re super helpful! Cheers!

I'd suggest placing vertical studs every 16 or 24 inches. I built a similar design, but with more vertical studs, and it doesn't flex at all. 

See here: metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/Ho…

Ys Brandwrote:

I'd suggest placing vertical studs every 16 or 24 inches. I built a similar design, but with more vertical studs, and it doesn't flex at all. 

See here: metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/Ho…

Interesting, and thanks for the pdf! Seems quite helpful lol

Happy to share some photos of my home wall, built about 10 years ago. A buddy and I built the woody while the space was bare bones. I liked it so much I decided I should be living up there. It’s had many inhabitants since then, but I’m lucky enough to live here while in between homes!

I changed the paint color to a dark green, the tan was not my favorite. When I reset the holds I did a semi symmetrical setup. Really liking the mirrored problems, but since most of my holds are slightly different it gives a slightly different feel to one side 

45° moonboard on the left (I’ve gotten the white holds as well, just have to put them on) and a 20° spray board on the right. I scored some awesome padding from a gym last year that makes falling almost zero stress.

Does anyone know a good way to cover or wrap these? I stack them when not climbing so the car still fits in the garage. 

“Does anyone know a good way to cover or wrap these?”

Canvas drop cloth has worked well for me for wrapping foam padding under my boards.  Paint or hardware store or, of course, online retailers 

Buy a cover from Revival or Asana. Yes it’s expensive but will be a solid long term investment into your climbing gym. Nice job on the Moonboard!

Has anyone shelled out for the Nicros pre-made wall panels?  I have far less time on my hands than I did at the beginning of Covid when we built our first home wall, and a lot bigger space to build in, so I'm looking at pre-made panel options.  The Nicros panels look like the easiest to get my hands on, and can be delivered in standard sheets or you can provide them with a pre-set design they can cut the panels to fit.   

Second question:   For anyone that has built directly off of roof framing members on the inside, how much additional bracing/support did you add to reduce strain on the framing and flex in the system?    I am looking to build in a garage attic space, directly on the underside of the roof, and thinking that adding horizontal blocking across the structure; 2x6 vertical supports at each end from the top to the floor; and a vertical kicker at the bottom will be the best solution.  Any thoughts on that? 

Paul Lwrote:

Second question:   For anyone that has built directly off of roof framing members on the inside, how much additional bracing/support did you add to reduce strain on the framing and flex in the system?    I am looking to build in a garage attic space, directly on the underside of the roof, and thinking that adding horizontal blocking across the structure; 2x6 vertical supports at each end from the top to the floor; and a vertical kicker at the bottom will be the best solution.  Any thoughts on that? 

Without taking down my wall to look at it, I'm pretty sure I put horizontal blockers where the panels meet in order to have more to screw into. This might include a set across the top as well. No vertical supports. It's been nearly 3 years and I haven't pulled my house down on me yet.

Paul Lwrote:

Has anyone shelled out for the Nicros pre-made wall panels?  I have far less time on my hands than I did at the beginning of Covid when we built our first home wall, and a lot bigger space to build in, so I'm looking at pre-made panel options.  The Nicros panels look like the easiest to get my hands on, and can be delivered in standard sheets or you can provide them with a pre-set design they can cut the panels to fit.   

Second question:   For anyone that has built directly off of roof framing members on the inside, how much additional bracing/support did you add to reduce strain on the framing and flex in the system?    I am looking to build in a garage attic space, directly on the underside of the roof, and thinking that adding horizontal blocking across the structure; 2x6 vertical supports at each end from the top to the floor; and a vertical kicker at the bottom will be the best solution.  Any thoughts on that? 

I ran a 2x6 along the ceiling joists a bit longer than the wall itself then married the top to that. All the load is shared equally between the roof members.

Bumped because recent board posts got me super psyched.

Here’s mine: 8x12; adjustable with effort but set at 45* for most of its life; a spray of plastic (Kilter, Teknik, Trango, Stone Age, randos) and wood (homemade, Beastmaker, Tension). Construction is 2x6 throughout, which was a good decision, but it's T-nutted a la the Moon Board, which in retrospect I wouldn't do. (I'd go all-screws with Lonestars for the bolt-on holds.) The two small volumes add a lot of movement variety and I'd like to add a few more tiny ones. The density is basically that of a Tension Board 2.0, but I'd like to go even denser.

The matting consists of two huge, free gym mats off Craigslist, two crappy 8x4 folding mats of Amazon, and a really dope 8ft wide Evolv pad from a backcountry gear sale. It would be good to add a dense foam top layer to the Craigslist mats and velcro them together—the Amazon mats have not held up very well, unfortunately.

I reset it pretty recently. It’s great in spots but there are definitely dud areas that could use refactoring.

40 pounds of almost new holds to make your woody nicer $200 plus shipping paid 400 for everything last year 

Dan Schmidtwrote:

Bumped because recent board posts got me super psyched.

Here’s mine: 8x12; adjustable with effort but set at 45* for most of its life; a spray of plastic (Kilter, Teknik, Trango, Stone Age, randos) and wood (homemade, Beastmaker, Tension). Construction is 2x6 throughout, which was a good decision, but it's T-nutted a la the Moon Board, which in retrospect I wouldn't do. (I'd go all-screws with Lonestars for the bolt-on holds.) The two small volumes add a lot of movement variety and I'd like to add a few more tiny ones. The density is basically that of a Tension Board 2.0, but I'd like to go even denser.

The matting consists of two huge, free gym mats off Craigslist, two crappy 8x4 folding mats of Amazon, and a really dope 8ft wide Evolv pad from a backcountry gear sale. It would be good to add a dense foam top layer to the Craigslist mats and velcro them together—the Amazon mats have not held up very well, unfortunately.

I reset it pretty recently. It’s great in spots but there are definitely dud areas that could use refactoring.

Sexy little number you got there. How do you like the bubble wrap holds on that angle?

John Clarkwrote:

Sexy little number you got there. How do you like the bubble wrap holds on that angle?

I love 'em, and they get the most compliments from visiting boulderers. If you're climbing V8 you won't have any trouble using the incuts or ledges on 45°. For me, at least, the really negative holds have to go on volumes, but they make for great heel/toes there. And believe it or not that 45°-angled middle pinch gets a lot of action. It's negative but the bubbles and friction make it pretty usable, and definitely interesting.

Dan Schmidtwrote:

Bumped because recent board posts got me super psyched.

Here’s mine: 8x12; adjustable with effort but set at 45* for most of its life; a spray of plastic (Kilter, Teknik, Trango, Stone Age, randos) and wood (homemade, Beastmaker, Tension). Construction is 2x6 throughout, which was a good decision, but it's T-nutted a la the Moon Board, which in retrospect I wouldn't do. (I'd go all-screws with Lonestars for the bolt-on holds.) The two small volumes add a lot of movement variety and I'd like to add a few more tiny ones. The density is basically that of a Tension Board 2.0, but I'd like to go even denser.

The matting consists of two huge, free gym mats off Craigslist, two crappy 8x4 folding mats of Amazon, and a really dope 8ft wide Evolv pad from a backcountry gear sale. It would be good to add a dense foam top layer to the Craigslist mats and velcro them together—the Amazon mats have not held up very well, unfortunately.

I reset it pretty recently. It’s great in spots but there are definitely dud areas that could use refactoring.

Adjustable? How did you do the hinge? I am planning to build one that will need to be vertical most of the time, but I'm not sure the best way to do the hinge portion.

Brady3wrote:

Adjustable? How did you do the hinge? I am planning to build one that will need to be vertical most of the time, but I'm not sure the best way to do the hinge portion.

It’s on six “heavy duty” door hinges inlaid into the top of the kickboard and bottom of the wall.

And yeah, it is adjustable but the four chains and manual winch make it a bit of a pain to adjust, so I mostly leave it at 45. I’ve been thinking about upgrading to an electric winch to make things easier.

A few years ago we got a place where the previous owner had built a 20x20 man cave with 12' ceilings where he had a shop and worked on his car. 

I went back and forth between a system wall and my own build out along all the walls, but finally went towards the system wall because I don't have time to set and I'm not very good at it either. In the end, I built the space out into a warm up wall on the side (used panels and holds from local gyms), and then a 10x12 kilter board, full ride version. It took a while to figure out how to make the best adjustable setup for that which didn't include a super expensive, standalone metal frame, but I was really inspired by the Hangar 18 kilter setup I saw in Riverside, CA. The angle is adjustable (20 degrees and steeper), using a 1500 lb winch from harbor freight to move it up and down, and 10,000 lb truckers straps bolted to the wall. Just recently scored some free foam from a gym doing a remodel to add more padding. Anyone have recommendations on foam covers? 

Overall, the wall doesn't flex nearly as much as I thought it would for being on trucker straps (it never/barely does). 

Teddy K. I have to ask. How often do you smack your hand on the ceiling going for a finish?

Cooper Juke wrote:

It’s not much, but I’m still in high school so it’s all that the parents allowed. More holds and a mat are getting here soon.

Totally sick paintjob! Gonna be able to do some real tech wizard stuff at that angle too