"50 Worst Climbs of North America"

The Peahastin Pinnacles in Central WA. Sandstone that is more sand than stone.

David Kwrote:

Great story!  I'm sure it wasn't funny at the time, but you made it funny to read about.

David Kwrote:

There's a 35 foot 5.10- vertical line at Powerlinez which appears to follow a crack system starting about 8 feet up. As it turns out, the crack is actually a shallow line of broken-out kitty litter that I wouldn't trust with a cam even if it were deep enough. I broke a hold about 15 feet up and desperately grabbed a small rail which miraculously held while I barn-doored and somehow pulled back on. The crack system gives way higher to sharp pockets which also don't yield gear and are filled with dust. I strongly considered lowering at about 30 feet where I finally found the only piece, a vaguely square pocket that fit a #1 cam pointing straight out, but wasn't psyche on the piece enough to do that. Topout at 35' was a desperate scrabble through grass, dust, and loose fist sized rocks that I tried not to rain down on my belayer as I beached-whaled while pulling out clumps of grass and groveling in dirt.

I suspect this was an FA but I refuse to name it and am not adding it to Mountain Project. 0/10, dangerous and unfun crumbling choss that is just tall enough to maim you if you fall. If you are unfortunate enough to encounter a route by this description, I recommend dropping from the bottom of the "crack" and potentially breaking an ankle rather than continuing on and potentially dying.

There's not a convenient way to build a TR anchor either.

i’ve done that, there’s a blueberry bush at the top you can sling for an anchor. 

OP you need criteria. I think a good list might contain:

• Rock quality
• Climb-ability
• Safety
• Location/approach
• Height (short climbs can be dumb but so can long ones)
• Popularity in terms of amount of feedback 
• Popularity in terms of content of feedback
• View

For your consideration: Beaver St. Wall, SF, Ca.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105734825/the-crack

Looks fun enough from pictures, but upon getting on the thing you’ll quickly realize that the entire wall is made of glass. I believe “slickenside” is the geological term for the unique polished face that forms the wall.

The novelty factor of climbing with views of downtown SF is somewhat redeeming.

It's probably not the worst, but if anyone feels the need to climb Gastonia Crack at Crowders a: wear a helmet in case a hiker drops/throws something and b: go after a rain because hikers like to pee at the top.

As for routes that are actually documented:

• Heavy Hands at Sunset Rock. It's basically a sharp awkward V2 followed by a bunch of loose rock and pine needles which leads to a questionable tree anchor that isn't centered with the route so you can't easily clean it.
• The Return at Lower Leda. The bolts on this seem to have been placed with the idea of creating a free solo on bolts. An insecure slab over a not-great fall leads to the high first bolt. which protects... a trivial move onto a ledge. From this ledge you pull the 5.8 crux unprotected; the bolt below the ledge would simply let you bounce off the ledge and potentially ground out, and the bolt above is out of reach. If you're strong enough to pause mid-crux you can clip the next bolt from there, otherwise you pull past the bolt and around a corner to some sharp holds. From there you can reach down and awkwardly clip the bolt that would have protected the crux if it were a few feet lower, and instead it protects more easy climbing. Honestly would make a decent mixed route, but if you were expecting the bolts to protect anything you'll be disappointed.

petzl logicwrote:

i’ve done that, there’s a blueberry bush at the top you can sling for an anchor. 

That must have grown since I did it.

I did that route in the evening after day 2 of my NOLS WFR course with some other soon-to-be-WFRs, so if there was any comfort to be had it was that if I fell, I was surrounded by people who could effectively collect information on exactly how I was dying.

Jason Pirolowrote:

For your consideration: Beaver St. Wall, SF, Ca.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105734825/the-crack

Looks fun enough from pictures, but upon getting on the thing you’ll quickly realize that the entire wall is made of glass. I believe “slickenside” is the geological term for the unique polished face that forms the wall.

The novelty factor of climbing with views of downtown SF is somewhat redeeming.

Yeah... the view and surrounding scenery kind of knock it off the list.  Even the anchor is easy to build!  Heck, parking is easier to find there than at the local climbing gyms.

José Flovinwrote:

OP you need criteria. I think a good list might contain:

• Rock quality
• Climb-ability
• Safety
• Location/approach
• Height (short climbs can be dumb but so can long ones)
• Popularity in terms of amount of feedback 
• Popularity in terms of content of feedback
• View

I agree but only to a point.  The original criteria I laid out were originally developed by Steck and Roper for their "50 Classics... etc".  I only modified their criteria.  That said, I don't agree with a number of "classics" they listed.

Gumby Kingwrote:... I don't agree with a number of "classics" they listed.

I concur. A number of those routes just plain suck.

Alan Rubinwrote:

Though, sadly, pretty accurate

Apart from the spelling, of course!

Alan Rubinwrote:

Ouch, that hurts!!!! Though, sadly, pretty accurate. However, from the late 60s thru much of the 80s, I spent/wasted many hours there---and despite the 'less than aesthetic' surroundings, graffiti ( not as bad then as now), highly polished rock, the 'eliminate' nature of the climbing, I shared many enjoyable experiences with good friends ( some sadly gone now), was able to hone my slab technique, and overall had a great time there--some of the actual climbs, while short, are still quite good. This just goes to show that one can get good value even from unlikely locations.

Haha. True that. I perhaps offer it as a stereotypical bad location. I cut my teeth there and am fond of it. Objectively, yes, the movement can be stellar, yet the graffiti, which even in the last 5 years has gotten way worse, makes it hard for me to want to climb there. 

Ignatius Piwrote:

Apart from the spelling, of course!

Fair enough!

David Kwrote:

That must have grown since I did it.

I did that route in the evening after day 2 of my NOLS WFR course with some other soon-to-be-WFRs, so if there was any comfort to be had it was that if I fell, I was surrounded by people who could effectively collect information on exactly how I was dying.

No, it was definitely a joke about how hard it can be to grab an anchor up there in an area that seems completely forested from every angle. except when you need it. 

An obscure one in a zone called The Toilet bowl. We named this bad boy "The Urinal Cake". Unrepeated 5.10 choss.

Caramel Corner 5.8 is Castlewood Canyon SP. Chossy as hell, with a handful of bolts. The rock absolutely eats your hands and there's no shortage of chaos. Many climbers first outdoor route including my own

Basically any trad route at Frechman Coulee in eastern Washington with <2 stars on MP. I've climbed a few while waiting for another route to open and they are basically all loose, jagged slots with horrible or no gear so they feel like free soloing choss. Frequently they have no anchor at the top so you have to traverse the top of a pillar to a nearby sport anchor then fuck around on the way back down to get your gear back, or make a sketchy gear anchor, convince your partner to second it and then walk over to a rap station somewhere else. Only routes I've ever rated the bomb are these sorts of choss slots at the coulee.

Some lovely examples you should definitely never climb:
I'm Alright (you won't be)
The Mirror (looks through the Feathers)

wake and bakewrote:

Mark was a good guy 

And I'll refute the nomination for that route, I thought it was pretty fun with varied movement, a lot more burly and interesting than BBQ the Pope next door. Don't know Mark, but that route deserves it's spot, even if it's squeezed in there.